MilesFox

classic CTS problem. Car runs great until it warms up, then stalls, and wont start till it cools down. I recommend you replace this part first before throwing any more parts or money at it. Also, check for corrosion on the terminal. This sensor is brown with the same style connector as the injectors. If you take off the '4wd turbo' plenum, you should see it nestled between the intake and the turbo. Replace that hose that goes from the turbo to the thermostat as well, since it is likely to blow out one day if it has never been changed

I would think to put the oil coming out of the turbo through the cooler so you dont have hot oil soaking heat back into the engine. I also had the idea of using a heater core to make a cooler for the water return on the turbo. the wrist pin plugs take a 14mm. a 9/16 may be a hair too big to fit nicely and get a good grab. I recomment a big breaker bar or an impact if the motor is out of the car, and to not make them he-man tight when going back together. The best thing yo can do for your ea82 engine is good cooling system, fresh hoses, non-corroded radiator, and do not overboost past stock parameters.

the length should be relative to the inner tie rod. I would suppose brat inner tie rods for power steering would work with the impreza rack. Still, you may need to make the hole on the passenger side ft he crossmember, since the p/s lines come off that side, rather than the input shaft itself like the brat/ea82 have

on the coil bracket

the brake lines run inside the rocker sill, then emerge under the back seat, go through a grommet, and to the rest of the braking system. It is un-necessary to remove the gas tank to access the brake lines. Generally the lines will rust at the grommet where it comes through the body, or at one of the clips that secure them to the body.

Dude, you can't call bs. I am miles fox. What i said is true. Go own 35 plus subarus, and tell me how many of them won't go into first gear at a roll. Thanx and good evening. I have a pet peeve when people try to drive and or work on these things like its some GMC. Throw all that out the window and open the subaru book.(i just woke up and need cofee)

build up on an spfi block sinve it has better compression than a carb block, and use the carb manifold on the spfi block. Delta cams. the rest is ingenuity and invention, based on what you know about the dynamics of a 4 stroke(and subaru) engine, as there is not much available for these motors. run the timing advaced, mid grade fuel, and an open exhaust going from ea81 to ea82 alone is worth about 10-15 hp

I would imagine an spfi for 'base model, or a 1986 gl-10, but the 'base model' would be the DL trim line, as the gl-1o is the luxury trim. If you got an spfi motor, the engine temp sensor is on the thermostat housing, the one with 2 wires and a green plug. If its mpfi turbo, or mpfi n/a the tsensor is located at the back of the intle on the left side near the turbo

one....two-hoo...threee. The world may never now

white plugs would indicate a lean burn. Maybe you have a vacuum leak? Maybe the iac is open because the engine temp sensor is bad(or coolant temp sensor, CTS) turbo? 4eat? 3at? 5mt?

Your best option is to stick with your engine. Swapping the SPFI from the loyale would make it super dirveable and eficient. The ea82 spfi motor is an option as well, since it is simple and the parts are available, and it has a little more performance, and is better with a 5spd swapped in with it. I would chose to go after the spfi setup for practicality, and keep the ea82 engine out of that car as a spare, with the option to install it in the future, or to replace the ea81.

if you go ea81 turbo, you are best to entirely gut the car and swap the whole harness. that, or swap the best of your car into the turbo body. an ea82t wull be easier to find parts for. The engine is reliable with proper maintenance, good hoses, good radiator. the will remain reliable if you do not over boost them. no need to mod or upgrade the engine, as there is no aftermarket, and retrofitting is limited, and 115 hp is still better than 80

put the socket in the bolt first, then use a long extension from the oil fill tube area

just eliminate the trailer harness as it is the wrong type if it is a 4way flat with no converter box. The pigtail grounds to the chassis, but the lights ground at the switch.

I'll bet they are 90 bucks with the distance they have to travel, and probably board a bush plane to get there, i would imagine.

try some meduim cut polishing compound and see what that does. That cleaned up the dusty look under my hood.

How far are your cans of paint going? i already burned up one, and most of the 2nd on the engine bay. How many coats are you doing?

crank sensor is the disy. Yo uget that code if the car is on but not running. you could try replacing the disty, but only after a series of troubleshooting leads to it

You can take out the 4 bolts on the side that hold the compressor to the bracket. Then you can take out the 14mm bolt with no special socket, remove that part, and then the compressor is free. assembly is revere order. Good job with the proper equipment and parts. I am guilty of venting to atmosphere. I found a guy with the right equipment, as i am trying to retrofit an ej22 int my car and adapt its compressor tho the existing ac lines. I have removed all the lines to paint the underhood. I can appreciator your effort and kudos for having the equipment

195 sounds correct. the 185 may be for carb models. the part cross references with 52mm chevy shortblock, if you are trying to go with different temps. The subaru oem thermos have a larger brass piece and the little jigller ball to vent the air bubbles. I have observed over may example the original belts lasting to about 135-145,ooo miles in 86-88 subarus over n the span of several years, with the latest being an 86 3door with spfi, about 140,000 miles It was due for cam seals and water pump. It was driven semi regularly. A lot of sitting and dryrot would let a belt fail after resurrecting an old soob

cut out a section and weld in a sleeve to lengthen it. This way you keep a new muffler and new metal. Take it to a ma and pa shop and have them lengthen it with the old muffler to repair to. bosal is a good make for exhaust gaskets if you ever need them, better than felpro

you can simply tap into your working curcuit and have a switch to override the sensor, so you can turn it on at will. if you forget, it will come on anyway. just don't forget to turn it off, but it should turn off with the key.

My preference has been 185 70 for 4wd subarus with 3.9 gear. Sometimes the door sill is stapped with 165 tires in the vin plate. As long as you can find them, go with who has them and the best price. I already ran into a no 185 tire in stock, or buying the last pair

I contest that it costs 2 stacks to drive this car. I have similar body rust, althoughnone on the inside of the rocker, butt I got about 100 bucks in material to fix the framerail, and half the cost was primer and undercoating. The best investment is a quart of por15. I treated rust with a knotted wire wheelon an angle grinder, and a wire brush. I used some naval jelly here and there. Your efforts remind me of when I had a few ea81 back in the day. You seem toknow what you are doing well, and have access to the equipment to do it. They say you can bring one from out west. Bt then it will rust also. T ere is an art to knowing where these cars rust out by seeing enough examples. You can presrve specific areas to prevent rut to begin withwashing off road salts is the best defense

It would bolt in with a turbo engine crossmember. This allows for clearance of the up-pipe. An existing crossmember can be modified with competent fabrication skills. The best thing to do is swap a harness with the engine, and have a donor car for any and all parts you will need. Mechanically it's bolt in, but there are a few differences with combinations of parts between the turbo and non turbo. There is a difference in engine harnesses between 90-91 and 92/3-94 models