MilesFox

my bad, i misread EA81. but if you have an ea82 motor in your ea81, the wires hook up and work the same. the distributors themselves are of tha same design(from what i had,) but the gear or the shaft may be different

skip, i must PROVE YOU WRONG, as we have a WORKING EXAMPLE in the RX the thermoswitch wires off the radiator, is pretty much "shorted" by a toggle switch, and has an in-line 20A fuse the thermoswitch has some 18ga wire, and the FAN wires are FATTER. no high draw thru this. and it will kick the fan on in the ACC position

trashwagons are ludicrous. push-buttons are NEAT-0

hmm, an ej22 with dual xpipe and cherry bombs. i have the parts...just let me find a recording device

the electric fan is turned on by a thermoswitch in the radiator, near the drain plug when it reaches a set temp, the switch closes and thus trips the fan relay but what if you wnat to turn the fan on yourself? easy. on the 2 wires that go to the switch, splice in 2 wires, each to the 2 terminals on a toggle switch you can turn the fan on , and if the temp switch kicks on, the fan is on anyway if you forget to turn the fan on, dont worry, the thermo switch will still come on an easy low amp wiring solution, no relays involved

invest in a valve removal tool and a dremel(with snake atatcment), and PORT THE HEADS instant turbo response, better bottom end, better high rpm if you had a carb block laying around, go with that. cut out the airbox, install a cherry bomb what we did with the RX, costs us no more than the gasket set, and a hand ful of dremel bits http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html look far enough and you will see the ported heads

ok, now i got my 11/32" drill bit. my recesses are ground out on the trans bellhousing, just a little more work to mate. the bolts that hold the plate on, i trimmed a corner off each head, to make room for the bottom studs, less grinding on trans the input shaft lines up bBEFORE the recesses, so now the only spacing will be 3/8. i am pretty sure i wont need a flywheel spacer as long as the starter engages i will have it mocked up tonite, studs, thread locker. then i will drill the flywheel

you can go with that, but put a switch in-line so you can turn off the pump if the key is on for whatever reason, not running i myself would just run a hot wore, with a switch to the STRIPED WIRE on the pump, and the other one ground to body you can run your wire along or under the center console, from the back of the console under the carpet, and under th4e seat thru the brake or fuel lines grommets the dist triggers the pump when its turning, but it comes on for 2 seconds as soon as you turn the key to RUN(to pressurize try connecting the GREEN TEST CLIPS together, then turn the key on, the pump should cycle on and off. if it DOES cycle, your problem lies elsewhere than the relay

for the trans crossmember, you will need to swap that with. its easiest to install the trans with the crossmember atatched. you will remove 2 bolts from the auto's frame, and use the LONGER bolts that came with the MT crossmember swap driveshaft, rear diff the turbo flywheel will fit the same, uses same clutch parts too. get some longer bolts if you dont have any with the flywheel, they use a finer thread than the standard 1.25 i believe its 1.00 thread, M 10. take an pld pressure plate boly with u for comparison the 88 DOES NOT have a neutral switch, but the loyale does. it should be on the pedal box, but it will not be used on the 88. you WILL have to bypass the auto's neutral safety, either jump a wire in the shifter harness, or simply go pushbutton from the fuse panel(or other 12 v source) to the spall prong on the back of the starter. that circuit is low amps, so a bug heavt duty"starter switch" is not necessary, just use a other purpose button, or the "horn switch" they sell at autozone

use a flat prybar or a BIG screwdriver, get in there between the mount and the frame, and wiggle it around till a stud drops thru. ince one stud drops, the other one will go in easier. there is no difference in the mounts, in fact, an ea82's mounts will fit the same in an ea81 body

ALL LOYALES, 1985 thru 1994, use the same FRONT hub for 4wd and 2wd. either will work. rear hubs are different a brat hub will bolt on, but the spacing for the rotor may be different. i would go with the 2wd hub for certainty

its a direct swap. all the distys for 85-86, and 87 carb models will work the same i got an 86 disty on my spfi block with a carb in a turbo wagon, and my 83 ea81 wagon with an ea82 motor uses the 86 disty. you cant go wrong on this one

jims wagon made noise, replaced an axle. it still made noise, not as much, replaced the other axle. during the other axle, i noticed there were a FEW BALLS MISSING from the bearing race

how about ej22 trashwagons?

NE indiana, and represent the Subaru Alliance!

its all cut out. now i have it bolted to the motor thge bolts i used were a 17mm head, so i had to grind recesses in the tranny bellhousing. i will be using original studs from the 2.2 and ea82 cause o wont find them in the hardware store i will drill thru the plate till i strike meat on the motor where i can, tap it m10 1.25 i will drill and tap the the dowels, and use bolts with nuts. there are 2 spots on the top of the ea tranny that can be drilled for bolts with nuts. i need to get an 11/32" drill bit for the studs, tap. i will do that tomorrow. the input shaft slides in as it is, with 3/8 thick aluminum, and the heads of the bolts. i will dtrim the corner on the bolts to allow for the studs i may attempt a flywheel spacer, but first i will try without, may use the ej22 flexplate retainer. i will use that to drill out the flywheel, as a template, and maybe to brace the flywheel after its drilled if i maintain the exact alignment woth the holes, they will be oblong, and the flywheel can still be used on an ea82 motor. the legact and ea82 bolts are the same size for the fltwheel to crank, i will be using ea82's as far as the bottom studs, no i did not align them with the ea trans. i tool them out of the ej22, put the ej in a bucket, and hung the trans from the hoist, and lined up the pilot bearing to the flywheel, which just fits on the crank snout in the back

any disc brake will work. you can swap min ea82 drums too, at least they are bigger you can also esilt modify a whole ea82 trailing arm to the brat, for example if a bearing was bad, and ea82s are more available 2wd discs will not fit a 4wd altogether, but the ROTORS and CALIPERS will fit the same. the hub is different, but unboltable from the rotor

if the trans comes with the mechanism, get all the vac lines and wires that will come with it. i think you could find away to use the at's vac source if youre creative not only that, you have to bypass the neatral safety, its in the console, jump a wire. i forgot which wires, but i picked a wire and jumped the other s one by one, the prndl on the dash would lite up whatever, until i jumped one till the key turned over you will also have to wire up the reverswe light

TRASHWAGON 5. try a search, see my sig

BRADD, the 19th date is the PLANNED date, and it will be a go if it falls into place by then. I have a backup plan that involves the head honcho at work, to "piggyback" my way out on his proposed trip to seattle. SUPPOSE ANYONE NEAR THE BORDOR WOULD HARBOR MY CAR? anyway, i have a lot of CONSTRUCTION work lined up for the immediate future, things are looking good at work, and for the company i would like to bring TRASHWAGON 6 out, being a wagon, but we have the RX if it cant make it if i do come in #6, it will have good axles, and 2 spares. as far as a reliable motor, i havent found a carb, and wont have a turbo motor by then. BUT I HAVE AN EJ22. i have started on the adapter plate, it would be the tits to drive a PAIR OF TRASHWAGONS on the way back! glad you got the money order, being that i didnt have much faith with the MAIL. i still owe another 40, i will either send that out, or bring it with, email me how you want to do that My plates are due in march, so i need to get insurance before i can renew. so i will be bringing a LEGAL SPANKIN' NEW license plate for #5, insurance of course. that is the only thing that can go wrong, so i will have that taken car of first. and its too much a risk to go to idaho, dont want to go to jail there again, with a warrant out already. and besides, 373.50 will go towards my cars rescue before i pay that damn county. but things look good, i will pay it when i can swing it, so it doesnt hinder FUTURE ROAD TRIPS.

ok now, i scored a chink of aluminum 15"x13" 3/8" thick. i have already drawn and traced out the templates for both the ej and ea bellhousings. right now i have started to CUT with a JIGSAW. i found it cuts smoother if i gice a squirt of PB blaster. i plan on having it cut, drilled, and tapped tonite. already got a 10mm 1.25 tap. i found some nifty countersunk socket cap bolts, but they dont come in 1.25 threads. so i am going to have to be inventive here. i got some hex head bolts to start with, lets see what happens

cool, i saw the pictures last night, and it looked very much like whatt i was thinking to do with steel and studs. but the steel ide wont work, because with the aluminum i can have the depth for THREADED studs, and recessed bolts for the motor i am going to look for aluminum today 15 inches wide by 12 inches tall. i will use whatever thickness is available, and use some of the cut out to have a flywheel spacer made. i will work the adapter myself, and myoss feece has access to a BAND SAW, the spacer i will roufg out, drill the holes, and have a machinist turn it down gfor me, and cut the hole in the middle. i will give the machinist the spacer plate that came off the ej22 for dimensions. there is one around here that costs 50 bucks an hour. ut obviously thats worth it for an ej22 against my choice of 5spd (full time xt6, but eventually into trashwagon5, dual range) i will put the ej in trashwagon6, leave the turbo mpfi harness there for now, then put the ej motor in trashwagon 5, after i have a turbo motor for 6

ALL ea82 REAR HALF of the driveshafts are the same. since you have a 5spd, and are using parts of a 5spd, it will fit if for example the parts car was an automatic, the REAR half will still fit the same. the difference between 5spds and autos is the FRONT HALF, carrier bearing forward, because the trannies themselves are different lengths

make sure to get all the electricals that go with the pushbutton mechanism

pop the disty cap and see if it turns with the motor. if not, broken belt if it does, then line things up to see if its in time, to see if the belt slipped i had a belt strip some teeth once, crank would turn, but not the cam. the car will still run if the passenger belt is broken, but only on 2 cyl the first time i experienced a broken belt, on a friends car, we cranked and cranked, the car would ALMOST start, but that is trying to run on compression and dieseling. also, pop off the outer belt covers and inspect the belts, see if they are broke, or if the cams turn too