MilesFox

what's with the "samo" hood, did you do that or was it like that? i think the car looks very clean minus the GL top trim on the sides, and the absence of a roof rack any ea82 springs will fit, as long as you find ones with the height you are looking for. try any 2wd turbo springs 87 and up struts dont have the height adjustment, so consider that if you replace them

carb and spfi heads will interchange. but the passenger side head may have a different egr fitting. usually its on the top, but some carb heads have it near the exhaust port. driver side heads are no difference if the egr location is different, just keep the egr tube that goes to the head, since it connects to the intake in the same location(i suggest you look and compare first)

yes it does..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11614 this is an ej22 going in an ea82 wagon, full time 5spd xt6 tranny but in a legacy, the axles will still fit on the xt6 tranny

SPARE TIMING BELTS! you never know when one can go for whatever reason, as long as you are comfortable with fixing it off the side of the road make sure all the lights work, every one, license lite too, if you are travelling across states, in "foreign" land have at least a calling card so it doesnt use your cash if you have to make a phone call and dont drive on a suspended license in a car with no insurance, make sure the plates and paperwork are current.

and if no one has, then what? magnetic inductance, when a magnetic field is generated across a coil, and then is cut iff of electricity, the magnetic field will collapse, and therefore induce current across a smaller coil with more turns, and thus generates a current of higher volotage, but less amprerage someone DID mention carbon from the switch contacts ARCING wouls line loss have to do more with voltage drop, or loss of an rf signal?

now i got as far as having the subframe built up, with motor and trans mounted. I will be using the SHIFTER from the CAR, on the 5spd full time, and the xt6's TRANNY MOUNT. the motor mount holes are slotted and lined up so the dowels on the mounts go thru. i also used the ej22 mPOWER STEERING LINES connected to the EA82 RACK i have found that i will be FORCED to use the XT6 KNUCKLE, ROTOR, to keep the parking brake style CALIPER. they are bolted to the LEGACY STRUT, and the strut has the EA82 CAP the assembly is ready to slip under the car. the struts are mounted to the strut towers. i will install the motor/frame first. then connect the axles and ball joint. the front will be using XT6 tierod ends i still have yet to compare xt6 and legacy axles, but i need the 1-1/8" socket(yosh has it). the axles are the same length, i want to know if the splines are, because one of the xt6 axles has a torn boot. i will have xt6 on one side, and legacy on the other if they indeed do fit the same STRUT

oki, now i am doing my suspension, so far i have built up the crossmember with xt6 swaybar, and spare ea82 control arms that have been drilled out for the legacy ball joint.

try checking the hoses themselves the sedan would ingest oil, and it was due to the hoses being clogged up like a bad coronary artery. we replaced them with standard 5/8" hose, and all was good

its real easy, you pop the door [panel off. and the top padded part and the door pocket are held on by screws cut the carpet to fit, and install the pices, so the screws go thru the carpet. it will hold itself together on the back doors, only the top and door handle will hold on, so i used some nylon zip ties on the bottom

now i have the ENTIRE FRONT SUSPENSION, CROSSMEMBER out of the car. i also have the struts and knuckle out of the leganus i took a few pics http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/ej22

Skip, that is out of line. let it be known that i AM EDUCATED in AUTOI ELECTRICS. so just cause i didnt know something doesnt mean i cant figure it out. and this was on the RX, not the trashwagon as far as trashwagons go, and with my posts telling how i did things, that is what works for me surely i have enough sense to wire something that would not be a hazard, you just dont know. suppose if you have SEEN MY PROJECTS IN PERSON, you would think differently and see that i know what im doing and besides, wheres your ej22 project. its all about how crative you can be, rather than how much book knowledge you know. at least im driving my projects, cause they work!

an axle can be fixed off the side of the road with: axle nut socket/bar 17mm socket 14mm socket 3/16" drift punch jack 3lb hammer ball peen hammer socket extension or pipe(to push axle thru long pipe or 2x4, 3 or four feet in length place car on jackstand(broken axle side) pop the tie rod by installing the nut upside down, flush with stud, and a quick WHACK with the hammer turn the strut towards the front of the car place the jack under the STUD for the ball joint, jack it up to load the suspension use the hammer to WHACK the lower control arm, tp pop the bal;l jount, the preload of the swaybar will help pull it away slip the pipe or 2x4 between the axle and lower control arm, and prop it against the framerail, push down to pull the strut out of the ball joint hole(and to put it back in) pop out the axle pin, pull strut away till axle comes off trans thread the AXLE nut on backwards till its flush with spindle, WHACK with hammer to start it out. once the nut bottoms out, remove it(set parking brake to hold still) now use tha round end of the ball peen hammer against the axle, and whack that with the ig hammer to push the axle further. use a pipe or long extension, and hammer to push it all the way thru. now bwfore you install the new axle, put the axle on the trans end, install pin, remove the caliper, bracket, and rotor, so that you can tap the knuckle to start the axle, then put the rotor on, the nut, toi draw it thru till you can put the washers on FOR TIMING BELTS install them with NO COVERS, so you can service them without removing the radiator, alt/ac bracket. or crank pulley. the belts can be replaced in 20 minutes

i converted my 83 turbo to power window. i took all the harness and motors from a donor, and my car had the plug ins for the harness remove the corner kick panels near the front floorboards, and look to see if the loyale has the plug ins the motors will ount the same, but get some PW door panels to go withm for the switch mounts, and to eliminate the crank hole

make sure to use a 1/4" drive ratchet, and be easy on tyhe bolts so you dont twist them off. when tightening, and if you dont have a torque wrench, tighten the bolts till snug, then 1/4 turn, dont tighten too much, its threaded in aluminum singe you have to tear down thr motor so far, you may consider doing the timing belts or water pump at the same time when tightening, snug the longest bolt first, then the 3 around the sprocket, then the one on the left. then torque in the same order read this too http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm Subaru Service

ok, now the motor cranks over. the bendix gear is *slightly* engaged like it is, but i am going to go with this till i get it running, since it now turns over i am using a tock ea82 starter. suppose i could grind away the corners of the teeth on the bendix gear later on, since i have spare starters

ok, the starter is mounted. on the top hole, ihad to tap out for a 17mm bolt, since the hole i drilled missed some of the metal. the bendix gear is hitting something, just clicks, so it looks as if i am going to grind away on the plate on the inside

the way we have ours, same size wire, 20 amp fuse. maybe we should go 15 if anything the switch is one of the LIGHTED variety, but the way we have it connected, of you ground the switch, the fan comes on. kight wont work that way. but i had the idea of an INDICATOR on the dash, connected to the hot side of the FAN ITSELF, so whenever the fan is getting juice, the lught comes on. ground the light to the body

i woild say its the cam cover, as mine leaks on the passenger side header you can service it in the car, although i find it easier to remove the nut from the motor mount on one side, and jack the motor up 2-3 inches, so you can get a socket in there. less frustrating than a wrench, or your soclet hetting stuck because it backs into the framerail

tranny now mates against plate. i installed a stud at the bottom, tapped the dowels for bolts, and drilled 2 holes on the top for bolts. the bottom passenger side stud threads thru the plate thru the block. the other side i will have to use a bolt. i removed the starter stud and treaded a ling stud thru to the block now i have drilled out the flywheel, using the AT's flex plate retainer as a template. i had to work the holes a little with the DREMEL, but now all the bolts tread in, and the heads cover all of the hole.. i could keep going, but its late. tomorrow i will take a sanding disc to the flywheel, mount the clutch, and bolt up the tranny. from there i will mock up the starter, to see how the teeth engage, with 12 v. so long as i secure the motor so it doesnt torque itself out of its bucket! (trans hung in the hoist) hopefully i will get as far as pulling the crossmember, and installing the motor/trans form underneath(suspension mods at the same time) so far i have $43.18 wrapped up in this project. 30 for the metal, and the rest for a tap, drill bit, and jigsaw blades(pair) so now all the work has been done, as long as the starter lines up.

on my 83 wagon, the original speedo would not thread in, because there is too much plastic before the treads, the hole is not deep enough (4wd 5spd)

the way i have it hooked up, i am using thesame gage wire that is on the thermoswitch plug, something like an 18ga (by eyeball), so if the circuit has the same size wire, whats the problem, and the toggle switch is fused ok, if there is no relay(i assumed) my bad. but the toggle is doing the same thing as the thermo switch in the "same location" as on a schematic either way, the fan still has fatter wires on its plug 87 RX MPFI TURBO

check the seal on the input shaft in the trans. do the rear main seal while the motor is apart from the tranny. do the cam seals, camcovers, front seal if the pressure plate isnt grooved or has heat marks, a clutch disc itself will do ya. make sure the throwout bearing spins nicely

6'2 1/2 i fit in my gl10 wagon just right, when i ride passenger the shifter hits my knee i swapped in xt seats, it sits lower, more headroom, legroom under 'wheel

sounds like it s running hot. suppose the foam in the oil could be from steam, the cooling system not being pressuruzed, maybe a head gasket letting go

skip, lets see the schematic for comparison, i devised this circuit from what i have read from the board, how the fan works works for the RX no problem