MilesFox

get a good sized hammer, a 3 lb. with the diff in the floor WHACK the doj, turn it 1/4 a turn each whavk, and it should eventually come off. if you are successful, slather a good dose of anti-seize compound on the shafts

use the ultra grey anaerobic sealant

WHOA! i must have missed this one. Brian, i still have the one i started on, need to finish, i have been working a lot lately, havent had time. this is my first time back on my comp since i last hollered at you. but i have the day off, i will get to crackin'!! oh yeah, the drawing will be based off the photo above, but with 4 headlights, some custom goddies, and a *hint* of TRASHWAGON. its gonna have exaggerated suspension travel like some lowrider 3-wheel motion type drawings, but with big soob meats!

skip was right, this happened to me on my way back from jims, the hose came off, and i didnt notice it when i set off on my 100 mile trip within an hour of sewapping the intake/carb the heater vent selector is also connected to this, it is a fairly common problem for people to discover this, so if anyone reads this, keep that in mind >>--search keywords if this gets searched) push button 4wd vacuum canister heater selector vent control engage stuck 5spd--<<

i did this to my 83 turbo wagon. it drove ok, the wheels fit good. the only thing in question was the holes from the back and the lug nuts. but with this way, just re-torque the lugs a few times each so many miles, and it will be fine i posted this and got a lot of wheel bearing responses, but now that i think of the bearings how they are (4wd) it doesnt seem too much an issue. so if you can go a year on them, i dont think its too much a bad idea but with mine, i ran thru some mud, had no wipers, and hit a curb. it popped the tire, and slightly tweaked my alignment, so i put them back to normal. but that doesnt mean i wont do it again. just give me some wagon rims

did you have the timing belts off? maybe the tension is not tight enough, and the belt has slap, making a noise at the distributor, cause the cam is snapping up the slack. try removing the bolts from the distrubutor, and turn it past the holes. if it runs better one way or the other, maybe you are a tooth off. with this, you van pop the cap, lift up the disty, and turn the rotor one tooth each way, if it is off.

my example was to use chevy 6 lug rims, like on 1/2 ton 140mmx6 what i did was use a soob hub, pop out 2 opposite studs, and then bult it to the rim. then i used the hub to drill through the rim, and i uses 21mm lug nuts, that still have the subaru m12 1.25 thread, and 60 deg seat. i had to grind away the center of the rim to fit the hub there are other rims that will work, toyotas and such. im sure someoner can tell you about those. but i say use a rim that is suitable to drill through, if you go that route http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88sedan/cwdata/88sedanwheel.html http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/cwdata/RXDoorsOpen.html

the fuel pump will cycle on for a few seconds when you turn the car on. then, from there, it takes a pulse signal from the distributor to keep it on, hence having voltage when cranking i would say the pump circuit is fine, look more into the thermo switch as a culprit

if you use a 5spd dual range, or PB 4wd, then you are good to go, 23 spline axles. with that, your stock axles will work you wint need to have custom axles, but you can if you want to use a turbo tranny with 25 splines, or go with the suspension conversion. you can ONLY use ea82 axles if you do the front suspension conversion but yes, the axles will work with what you have, no worries there as far as the wiring harness, take it all, get it ti run, and eliminate what you wint need. a schematic will help in that department.

what you are seeing is the casting inside the exhaust and intake ports, looks kinda like fine cracks, but its in the casting. the "normal cracks" are between the valves, and if you take a valve out, it may go to the valve guides, no problem the cracks to WORRY about are the ones in the exhaust port WEBBING

turn the distributor to the right to advance

an ea82 will physically fit. dont forget all the wiring. but if you use a tranny from a NON TURBO (2wd 5spd, 4wd 5spd, 4wd pushbutton 5spd non turbo, or turbo 3AT will fit) all these have 23 splines, will fit no problem if you can find a ea81t front crossmember that would be nice, if you do, no motor mount mods. but if you can cut away the existing crossmember to clear the turbo crosspipe, you still shouldnt have to mod the mounts but any ragular ea82 will fit in a hatch with NO mods if you really want to get into a project, there IS a way to use ea82 axles in a hatch, but that requires mods to the front crossmember, and you will need pretty much a complete ea82 front suspension for parts. such has been done to TRASHWAGON 5 and rguyver's hatch with the ea82 axles

i plan on using my existing 4wd button for the diff lock in my 5spd full time that will go in.

i myself have put a turbo motor together on a carb block the crank pulleys are different, the turbo had a built in dampener. but we used the carb blocls pulley, for one, the carb block had no damper, and for two, we caouldnt get the crank bolt off the turbo block! so far we run 87 gas and stock 20-25 deg btdc timing, no pinkgs or detonation!!! we also ported the heads a little too, and we blended in the valve reliefs on the carb's pistons the only physival differences between the blocks, is the carb block does not have the pcv tubing hole on the top of the case. in this case we bypassed that with tsome 5/8 hose heres some pics of our build. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html

non turbo front axles (and turbo at axles) and ALL rear axles have a 23 spline

the RX we put the top end of onto a carb block, the motor ran fine but developed a rod knock. we pulled the heads, they both had the crack. the cracks were of the normal nature, and with that, the cracks go all the way down to the valve GUIDES, still, normal for these cracks. the crack may be splayed a little, enought to catch a finger nail on. but those are not too bad. whats bad is the valve seat falling out, so the punch to flatten the cracks sounds like good preventastive measure on an otherwise good head personally, the only questionable head that i used and had a failure on was one with a crack in the EXHAUST PORT, between the webbing, where there are water passages. as far as between the valves, its all metal, and no passages. the heads on the rx were both a gen 1 and a gen 2, but were both fine, and run good now with new head gaskets to answer the compression question, i would say its the head gasket itself. here are some pics of the RX, with the head and engine build. we ported these heads also, and are running them on a 8.5 compression carb block, with "shaved" pistons, before and after. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html

so what exactly do you have in mind for mods?

my car runs on 2 cyl till it warms up, i suspect bad plugs. start with changing your plugs, and go from there.

i would solicit him for the whole car, if its all there, could be fixed up

ea81 axles will fit on the shafts of a non turbo ea82 trans, but ea82 axles are too long for an ea81 width. but i8f you can fabricate, you can cut off a lower control arm mount from an ea82, and weld it to the ea81 crossmember, and this will allow use for the ea82 lower control arm and axles but with this modification you will have to swap in ea82 innet tie rod ends, or lengthen the ones you have. you will also have to ream out the ball jount iand tie rod holes, just simply use the ea82 knuckle and strut, with a modified ea81 strut cap. thats if you wanted to use ea82 axles but non turbo ea82 trannies, ea82 axles, and ea81 axles, as well as automatic turbo axles, are all 23 splines, and ALL rear axles are 23 splines as well

remember that you will have to swap the entire transmission with the rear end to match gears. but also, a non turbo trans should already be a 3.9 gear. you can only have a different rear gear if you run your 4wd as a RWD, removing a front axle. a non turbo mpfi should have 9.5 compression, the highest with stock pistons, you already have as high as they come stock, or swapping in other stocl parts.

now that i remember i had clearance isus with my swaybar, and i unbilted the whole frame, and started the bolts each, then tightened them up. i hate that stupid swaybar, as it was in the way for my dual exhaust build attempts. but since traswagon 5 (83 wagon)has ea82 front lower control arms, it doesnt look that hard to fab on an ea82 front swaybar, then use the xt6 'bar

well, if you do take everything apart, just compare and use the pieces that will fit in combination, since you will have everything you need parts wise between both vehicles. good luck!

oops, i over looked that. but the pics should hepl as far as the indtallation goes

bleed the master cylinder too. subaurs can be tricky with this, even with my experience