MilesFox

all of the light and bezels will swap. some of the plastic anchors for the screws amy be in different spots, but can be popped out. the wiring may be different, at least the plugs. so some splicing may be in order for that.

i agree with gran turismo. it made me a pro at driving my PINTO, never ran it off the road. i can drift a FWD, which is commonly proclaimed as impossible. i consider myself a skilled and controlled driver, as i like to take laps in the field, i keep my turns tight and sideways. this winter with my broken front axles, i have learned a thing or two about RWD, i can pull some TIGHT donuts! but if im too high of a gear, the car will come around inthe rear. so i transition into reverse, keep going, and bust out a reverse 180 to go straight again, all the while keeping the car moving. for some reason it is impossible for my to do a 360 on purpose: if you think of how to steer or brake into a 360, its complicated. but for anyone else, they just stand on the brakes, and 360 away. i dont get it.

actually as it has been stated, water is what gives the cooling properties. all the antifreeze does it give the water a lower freezing temp, or a higher boiling temp i say anything between 25 and 50% green to water, for moderate climates. i tend to not like dex cool, as i think it has more potential to get hot , and the orange will find leks throu small holes that green would not find its way thru. and yes, you can mix orange and greena nd it still will work, but like it was stated, the orange life will be reduced by the amount of green mixed in with, so you can use orange to top off green in emergency type situations. i myself will stick to green. orange seems a waste if you will change it before its extended life period

ask tomrhere, he managed to get the windshield out of the brat. you have to cut the seal with a knife, tom worked his out with some special painters tool, one curved in a way for scraping rollers and such

the smallest inner most shaft should come right out. you can replace rither shaft from any 3spd 2wd and 4wd auto tranny. the torque converters will match too so what im saying is any replacement parts will fit from any 3spd auto

any rate it sounds to me that the fuel demand cant keep up.

good luck yo! subarus are fairly simple as far as cars are concerned. yeah, subaru is an odd breed, but they make sense when its time to get your hands dirty. keep the progress posted, ask if you run into something....

yes, flip up the bottom of tha back seat, and you will se where the fuel lines come in from under the car. check under the car, where the fuel lines run along the back seat floor pan, i have had several that were leaky due to rust.

rguyver put spfi on an na ea81, and then adapted a turbo to the setup. i myself have mockes up such a setup, but nothing tht i put togethe in working order. but to put spfi on an ea81, you will have to modify the spfi distributor to match the gear on the ea81 dist, just flip the gear over, or swap the gear itself. the intake will match the portsm but you will have clearance issues with the egr valve and the distributor. i removedd the egr and made a block off plate. the spfi distributor has 2 mounting flanges, one of which i hgad to cut off... on the ea81 motor, i removed the dostrubutor mounting flange and installed it upside down. the ditributor body was mounted 180 backwards, but with the rotor in proper alignment. the wires were connected to the cap 180 off, to keep the same timing with the rotor itself will this be spfi in an ea81 car, or an ea81 motor into an spfi car?

the air valve that skip mentions on the throttle body introdices air to keep the idle up. its like a false vaccuum leak how it works. i had found it easiest to remove the throttle body from the intoake, from a complete motor. remove the 4 12mm bolts that hold the throttle body to the intake, didconnect 2 vacuum lines, 2 electricle connectors, and the throttle body. but you will want to get the mounting orint ot renstall it should you remove it. i say this if you want to clean that valve, see if it helps, withput removing the power steering pump and such. the MAF (mass airflow sensor) is by the filter housing. you say the car runs without flat spots, so that shpould not be the problem. if you unplug the MAF with te car running, and the idle changes pr car stalls, then you will then know its working properly. chack all the little tunes and hoses around the spfi intake tube, make surte its all hooked up. does your heater vents selector work properly? because if it only blows out the dash, thats because one certain vacuum line is disconnected. let us know if the heater selector works...... it may seem irrelevant, but at least we can elimintate possible causes for effective troubleshooting

try testing the MAF. i have seena car with a bad filament in the MAF, it had flat spots in acceleration, but didnt stall. you caould try testing the coolant temp sensor for the ecu. its the one with teh plastic clip, not the single blade terminal(temp gauge), on the thermostat housing of the manifold

the little pyosser under the intake make a rule to change it yearly. any hose will last at least that long.

the engine mounts have studs that come thru the crossmember, and there is a 14mm nut for each side, just behind the exhaust pipes. if you drop the pipes first, they will be easier to get, the mouns will stay with the motor when it comes out. jack up the tranny to raise the motor enough that the mounts come out of there holes. then the motor slides forward. i strongly recommend removing the clutch fan furst, the n radiator. remove the clutch fan with a 10mm wrench and a 7/8 wrench(to hold the fan shaft still)

those green timing clips are what you are looking for. the test clips are under the hood for SPFI, under the dash for turbo

take a look here for some tips.. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm i recommend removing the motor, so you can service the timing belts and such if it needs it. seems the guy you bought it from knows his soobs, so he should know when the timing belts were last done will the rx pressure plate bolt up to the tranny? the spline for the xt 5spd is the same as the RX clutch disc. i would think the rx pressure plate will bolt up to the xt6 flywheel, but i cant tell u fo sure

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/partsguide001.html

you can use the red type grease, labeled for foreign and domestic cars, wheel bearing grease the axle bearings in the boots use a molybendim disulfide, moly grease

yes. straight from haynes i use my method, or a impact you dont want them TOO tight i use a bar type torque wrench for heads, never failed, i use the proper torque sequence you can "feel" torque if you are handy with tools at least if all the bolts are even torque i am just telling you what has worked for me.......just some different methods for u to try, do whatever you feel most comfortable with doing

check yer pm the haynes book says 51-55 ft lbs for ea82, 36-39 ft lbs hey maroon, the specs i gave you were for the BELLHOUSING, i read my book wrong with the pm tighten by hand, then 1/4 turn, in a star pattern will do ya i like to use the pressure plate bolt to secure the box end of a 10 or 12mm wrench to the flywheel, and use the open end to butt against the bellhousing stud, to secure the flywheel.

dont pass up on a soob over minor things or what features it has. my point is any soob is better than no soob. touring wagons are rare, and i f i got one myself, i would get one with the mind of putting the trans that i want in int. but i like to getmy hands dirty, too.

if this is for an 8a81 with an ea82 motor........ you can relocate the battery on the ea81 body to the other side. use ea82 cables. connect the alt to that post. then on the other side, use athe other battery. yhe stock positive cable will plug into the fuse link panel. use the body cround on the negative terminal. the battery will charge thru that But 2 batteries will draw more from the alt, i had voltage spikes with mine. so an isolator or bigger alt. what i liked about mine is the battery on the right was for cranking the motor, and the one on the left supplied the car, charged thru the car. over there would be ideal for a marine deep cell bayyery

make sure the steering wheel is straight wnen shifting in and out of 4wd. you may have to back up or pull forwart do release any bind in the drivelind. find some loose sand or gravel to rollaround on to felease the lever the owners manual will state that the steering wheel needs to be straigh.. nothing is broken...............

so if you leave the wire on the fuel pump, and replae the alternator, that will at least keep your battery from draining, and you can drive the car till you get the original fuel problem solved.

i dont know about gen1, but gen 2 and ea82 have it on the firewall on the passenger side

the white wire from the alternator is live with the battery at all times. You will want to disconnect the NEGATIVE battery any time you service live electrical. the fried fuse link probably burnt up when you got sparks off the white wire the white wire is what voltage from the alt goes to the battery. but its inly producing voltage when the alternator is spinning, and the coils are activated by the little clip on the back of the alt. the wires on the back of the alt should be live with the keys on. so with the fuel pump home made wire, the car still runs? what you need is a digital multimeter(or analog) to test current draw with the car off what you will do is pull the positive battery cable, set the meter for mA ,an put the prongs from the meter in-line with te battery and the cable this will tell you if there is current being drawn off the battery with the car off. if you have electrical problems you plan to fix, a multimeter is what you will need to be effective at electrical trouble shooting