MilesFox

take the clutch fan out first..

well, between the two flywheels, the crank orientation looks to be the same but the marks are off depending on the location of the timing window, even though the flywheel to crank orientation is the same.....

plug them in for spfi and turbo. the old models have them in the kick panel, and 88 and up have them under the hood plugging them in prevents the dist from advancing when setting the timing initially. the electronical sense of disconnecting the vac advance on a carm

if u decide to let it go, i have a spare motor, and tranny. . one of us here might want it for a good price... i would like to see the pics...

subaru parts quick reference guide-genuine parts numbers listings http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/partsguide001.html check this out for parts nubers for 85 and up the listings are: 2door and MPV (BRAT) ea82 xt you will have to scroll thru the pages to find what u need click on the thumbnail to see the whole page you belts will depend on your AC setup. it he alternator inboard or aoutboard? this will determin what water pump tou have, too

you dont have a bent suspension, do you?

use a 10mm line wrench. i have also cut off the brake line so i can slip a box-end wrench over the nut, but i would have to replae that section of brake line you can unbolt the hill holder to move it around and get better access. get on good with some vice grips. but you mat have to remove the whole thing and set it up in a vise, to get the bad line off inder the hood along the framerails and firewall, you will see where the steel line from the wheels will couple into the braking system. if you did have to cut a line, you can replace just the inner line from the coupling to the hill holder/master cylinder also if you cut the line, the nit will turn easier, brcause it was seized to the line, and uncut will be hard to turn

May i suggest using satin black? i personally like a satin black grille. but Krylon satin black is the perfect colot fro the balck door pillars, faded mirrors Satin black is also the right color for plastic headlight bezels and grilles on ea81's may i also suggest staying away from 99c paint, as it will oxidize and fade. at least use a clear coat with the cheap stuff i have found Krylon white gloss to be real good for 87 white subaru there are lso polymer blend paints designed specifically for trim and bunper molding

The 84 does not have timing beltsn and are generally troublt free compared to ea82 timing belted motors they are less likely to crack a head it has a 4spd dual range transmission. it is common to swap in a leter model 5spd 4wd for better off roadability, with some modification Main thing to look for is the axles, see if the boots are torn or axles make noise. but dont turn down a deal over axles(although it makes goos haggling grounds) if the car itself is deemed solid and well-kept. it would be worth it to invest in axle to ensure a trouble free ride. but the axle thing is expected with any subaru. plus should you chose to replace or modify parts, subarus are widely interchangeable with the right combinaton of parts

I found it th eparts guide that the JF2 on the VIN designates MPV (muilti purpse vehicle) so it do think that the 4s designation iw wrong and it should be 4w, which i could register as an MPV in indiana.,

the xt6 uses a lighter flywheel and a stronger pressure plate. but that and ea82 fits the same i will be using an ea82 flyeheel and pressure plate with my xt6 transmission

if the starter has an internal short, it will draw mpre amps and put out less power.

82 and earlier will have externally regulated alternators. try that for parts. the externally regulated alternators will have a metal tab for a wire off the back

robert, look for tom on yahoo messenger.

some donuting action, and a bent wheel! some nice cover-alls to crawl under a soob in

for those you would need the subaru air setup, or at least the right piping for the air lines and a valve to fill them, release air. but anyway, some gl-10's and xts had the air ride suspension.

jims wagon did that, and it turned out to be a bad filament on the MAF you can take the module off the maf body to check it out' you might need dielectric grease(like for ign module) to put it together, not sure

i would agree that the volt reg is going out. compare price to a new VR or a different alternator. you will have to take tha lternator apart to change the vr, but i havent had an alternator apart...

go to msn groups and search for rguyver he used to be on the board-- anyway, he has ea82 front end in a hatch, and has made shocks that connect to the swaybar mount. go look there, that will be in mind with what you want to do

how about i trade you a Subaru Alliance shirt...? i didnt get any coal, but i would be happy to give you my Dook Nougat

but it woudnt hurt to put a 6 dollar seal in to see if that helps, either. while its apart inspect the parts with the lifters already out of the car, you might as well clean them. not hard to do at all.

maybe the strut itself is bad. although the strut does not support the weight of the vehicle, it does however control the rate at which it bounces up and down. so if a strut is bad, that will allow the suspension to move fast enough to bottom out. just some consideration...

since you are using the ea81 motor, the ea82 flywheel is what you will use, but you will have to grind away metal on the bottom of the engine bellhousing, to allow room for the teeth on the flywheel. you will use the ea81 flywheel bolts, although smaller in dia. than the holes themselves. but the flywheel wiss center on the crankshaft anyway you winn also be required to use the ea82 clutch disc and pressire plate to the transmission you are using its possible to use the ea81 flywheel, the pressure plate will bolt up either way, but the ea82 clutch disc(which you must use) may be too big for the ea81 flywheel. search around, its all over the board. but anything you dsont find, just ask

if anything a loose particle in the engine got in the lifter. not to worry. how is your oil pressure. sometimes its caused by a bad oil pump seal, and air gets in the system. but not to worry, an oil pump seal change is recommemded any time you have the engine simewhat apart. my buddy's RX just started to do it, still holds strong oil pressure. nothing bad, if anything, clean the lifters by hand, he was going to build up his turbos on a carbureted block if worst comes to worse, and you have the motor apart for other reasons (or for this reason for that matter) you can take the cam boxes off, and remove the lifters and clean them by hand but its not anything that will keep you from a road trip. i mayself pulled a brave maneuver taking my ride cross country, broken axle in wisconsin, gas tank failure in so. dakota, but NEVER had a problem with the motor if anything will leave you stranded is a broken timing belt, so you might as well want to replace your timing belts for good measure, and while at it, do the oil pump seal.

put a strong screwdriver(one you dont mind breaking, or a junk one) between the middle of the caliper and the brake rotor vents. that will help keep things from turning. having a friend to stand on the assembly and hold it still will help...