MilesFox

For sea foam in the carbs i would let it trickle into the vent tube so that it goes in the bowl and thru the idle and main jets

I had swapped my forester suspension into a impreza nd put the leftover impreza suspension in the forester. The impreza now dwarfs the forester in stance, and my legacy outback dwarfs both cars in overall size and heft. Proportionally, the forester looks larger, until you park them all next to eachother.

for gear oil its 90 grade, GL-5 spec. The viscosity modifiers give it 80w90, 75w90. The lower the "w" number, the easier cold flow is until it warms up to 90 grade. Typically 80w90 is conventional and 75w90 is synthetic, which both are appropriate. In the manual trans itself, you want to use a synchromesh oil such as subaru extra s or equivalent. This is particular to subaru since it has brass synchros, AND the front diff is part of the transmission body. The GL-5 spec is necessary for the front diff ring and pinion as any differential, but the oil must also be compatible with synchromesh. A straight gear oil or synthetic may cause shifting problems. make sure whatever gl-5 spec 80w90 or 75w90 also is labelled for synchromesh as well.

Mechanically, the 2 vehicles are virtually the same. The forester is a smaller car. The forester may look larger because of its proportions. The forester is based on an impreza chassis with legacy running gear.

For that kind of money you could take my ej'd rx'd 86 3door. This wagon does have a clean straight body for the region. I would pay yhe money for a clean example to start with, but the old ea82t is best left in its stock form. For some people 4 stax is cheap for a throwaway car, but not us subaru people!

with the plugs remaining connected, this cycles the fuel pump relay, and also holds the timing curve static to set the initial timing.

What you have is a fuel pump control unit. And your ECS light is triggered by a microswitch in the odometer every 60,000 mi.

1. 30,000-60,000 mi, 2. dextron II/III or multi vehicle ATF, 3. as long as you don't forget to service the front diff, too, every 15,000-30,000 mi 80w90 or 75w90 ( 4. conventional wisdom and old-timer techniques need not apply. Disregard anything grandpa taught you about cars with these subarus.)

I have no problems using synthetic. If you do, you will want to use a 10w30, 10w40, 15w40 as summer weight, and for winter 10w30, 10w40, 5w40, or 0w40. What's important with synthetic is using one without too low of a zinc content. A typical 5w20 or 5w30 has 600 or 800 ZDDP, where a high mileage blend (mobil super) of the same weight will have ZDDP of 1000. Same with mobil1 high mileage. 1000 zddp is typical of a 40 wt oil, such as 10w40, mobil1 0w40, and higher with diesel oil 1200 and 1300 such as mobil delvac super 1300 15w40 or synthetic turbo diesel 5w40. Either way conventional, synth, or semi, use a 40 wt il, and only use 30 wt for winter near or below freezing temps. 5w30 is not recommended. There is some truth to the myth that synthetic oils may cause leaks, as stated above as it washes out carbon which may be keeping a seal blocked up. But also, the high mileage flavors have seal conditioners to help rejuvenate tired seals. It never hurts to replace seals. And with mobil1 in their terms, they recommend addressing any consumption or leak issues befire using the product. I am running Mobil1 0w40 euro blend in 96 impreza 185,000 mi, 98 forester 2.2 swapped with 260,000mi on the engine, and a 98 legacy outback ej25d with 134,000 mi. I am going for a 10,000 mi drain with a high capacity filter. I'll make the 10,000 mi decision based on the oil at 5,000 mi and 7,500 mi. I would expect to top up a quart between 3,000 mi as a general rule. Of course i am not afraid to fix a seal if it leaks. But i also work in an oil shop and see plenty examples of old and new cars and their oil conditions and what happens if oil runs low, runs overdue for service, etc. The biggest difference i see is what type of engine or vehicle determines the condition of the oil, when comparing the same oil brand and viscosity across different vehicles, or the same type of vehicles with different drain schedules or habits. As far as removing sludge before using synthetic, the ATF in the crank is good, Seafoam in the crank is good, or even kerosene or any over the counter engine flush treatments. But is the myth is true about synthetics unclgging leaks, then the myth holds true for these treatments as well. I personally wouldn't be afraid of leaks developing, or if you do have leaks, it's routine service fix it properly. In regards to synthetic fluids, i installed synthetic 75w90 in the diffs in 2 of these cars, and full syn multi vehicle ATF (dextron VI) in the legacy. I do have a diff leak, but this was a pior condition, for which i would top off the same. I save rolling resistance and drain intervals which offsets my cost per mile over conventional fluids.

engine temp sensor, the one with 2 wores, not the single spade. especially with MPFI engines

all 3at have a 23 spline axle. The turbo axle has a larger cup and shaft, but same 23 spline. The existing axles will work with a dual range non turbo 5mt Your car is either an 83 with a 4mt swapped in, or an 82 with an ea81t swap. Turbo was never offered with a 4MT and turbo was 83 and 84 only for ea81

I'll guess you had unplugged the TPS at one time withthe key on or started the car with is disconnected. I have done it. Clear the code and see if it remains away or comes back.

Check the MAF sensor

its behind the bumper under the headlights

With a carbureted model, there is a microswitch in the odometer that trops the lite at 60000 mi as a reminder to service the EGR valve. There is a reset procedure for this by joining 2 plugs together under the dash.

My 98 forester is A 2.2 recipient. The original ej25d had 240,000 mi when it failed the HG. I got this car for 500 bucks because. Book value fro this car is within $1600

Try changing the trans oil as it should be using an extr s 80w90 or equivalent synchromesh oil that meets GL-5 standard. straight gear oil lacks the proper additive for brass synchros.

kyb agx2 struts and eibach ground control springs. Use agx2 struts for impreza on the front and mazda miata for the rear. Otherwise eibach ground control springs and sleeves on stock struts. you will have to spread the tangs on the impreza stut to fit the xt6 knuckle. Otherwise, use impreza knuckles with xt6 inner axle seals, or use impreza axle

PCV valve

Just ignore the lite. It's arbitrary anyway, and is only there for federal mandate to remind the consumer to keep air in the tires ever since the firestone/ford explorer fiasco in the late 90's. You can get around any inspections while keeping the original wheels mounted, or perhaps load them in and on the car as they are wireless.

I am swapping suspensions and lift between a 98 forester and 96 impreza. lifted impreza and lowered forester.

Depends on your location. GL's can be hard to find in the midwest. Any mid to late 90's legacy or impreza with 2.2 engine is a very good choice for reliability and parts compatibility

Ihad this problem, but the union block was so corroded i had to resort to compression fittings from inside the car. I ended up swapping out the gas tank and subframe while i was at it. PErhaps you can do some clever routing of the lines. You would have to dro the subframe to drop the gas tank.

Test the fan circuit by jumpering the terminal at the thermoswitch. The fan circuit is hot at all taimes and the thermoswitch provides ground. You can intercept a manul toggle switch from the terminals. I would first suggest you have an air pocket from having the cooling system apart. Be sure the thermostat is open while addign coolant, with the engine running. If your heater is cold this would be a lot of air pocket or low coolant.

rusted out and wont find, says midwest obscure buyers' demographic when new and rust belt road salts, says the midwest. I would snatch this car up. "rust free" according to the pics compared to midwest standards