Hondasucks

That's a big obnoxious looking BOV.. Betcha makes the ricers stop pointing and laughing :-P That happened to Caboobaroo, he was rollin around in his RX and some ricers rolled up next to him at a light and were pointing and laughing and he revved his engine enough for the BOV to fire and he said they both got looks like "Oh, never mind... sorry for pointing and laughing" and grannied it off from the light lol... Silly Honda boys!

MAke sure you get the input shaft fully seated, it can be somewhat tricky, that hung me up on a 90 Legacy I put a new motor in a few months ago, torque converter would NOT go in any farther so I thought it was in all the way, turns out it wasn't. Luckily it didn't damage anything and the car drives fine now, but that input shaft was a BEAR to get in. When it's in all the way, the O ring will be close to the stator support. (Stator support is the splined shaft that sticks out of the transmission that the input shaft slides inside of.) When the T/C is in all the way, the flats for the bolt holes will be just below the mating surface of the bellhousing. Engine should slide together with the tranny completely fairly easily.

When this happened on my turbowagon, I replaced those bolts with stainless steel :-P And if the bolt broke off above the surface of the head, they have these nifty deals at Sears that you drive over the end with a hammer and then twist it out with a socket. Works on rounded off bold heads too!

I estimated mine @ about 16 or so, but that was at 7200' and timed with my CD player :-P It was bone stock except no muffler and I hollowed out the airbox. (and 15 psi due something bein f'ed up.. Not sure what, but my 88 XT engine runs 8psi lol..)

You could also get the bracket off of a 4WD car and weld it under there...

don't XT6s use timing marks on the crank pulley? If so, couldn't you use that for timing...

http://www.rhinobuggies.com.au I've got a set of plans for "The Bandit" which is I think what Sweet82 is running.. Haven't built anything yet though.

I dug in my tool box, found ONE lol...

I want one just for the RHD aspect, I'd do a 5 speed conversion though since I don't do automatics :-P

I think that's the designation, and the reason it won't fit is the turbo is gets in the way of the master cylinder or something to that effect... I don't know too much about them either, although they do pop up on ebay now and then...

You can take him to small claims court, if he was 51% or more at fault (and it sounds like he was!)

My rifle is a Russian Mosin-Nagant, named after the two men who designed it. More can be found on Wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mosin-nagant There is an article in Spanish at http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mosin-Nagant and one in Portuguese at http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mosin-Nagant (wasn't sure which one was your native language lol...)

it's a postal wagon, the guy who delivers my parents' mail has a 91, I keep buggin him to sell it to me :-P It's an automatic, but I'd take care of that... and stuff an EJ2xTT in there

I wouldn't REALLY shoot some low-life that was trying to steal my car... but I'd still come outside with my rifle and tell them to get the *$*#& away from my car! Now if I lived in Colorado or another state with a make my day clause, then yeah... but in Oregon they have to be in your house and threatening you with a weapon....

I'd either find a core buyer in your area that would buy it, or possibly a transmission shop would. If neither of those work out, find a community college in your area with an automotive program and donate it to them, that's what I did with a couple of my old trannies.

I used to have an 83 GL-10 sedan, watch the alternator in that if it goes out it will take out the digital dash! And GOOD FRIGGIN LUCK finding a working one, took me like, six dashes until I found a working one lol..

I've got one of those, and an M44 :-P And a Marlin 22 I traded a carbitater for lol, either way, a crackhead comes around any of my cars, he'll be leaving with more than needle holes...

that is PHARKING SICK!!!! Can always count on Jerry to do what others say is impossible! Good work man!

Are you factoring in the cold idle control doohicker? I don't know the actual name for it, it's a thermostatically controlled valve that is on top of the thermostat housing, has a somewhat large hose coming out if it that goes to the throttle body. It's my understanding that this controls the idle enrichment when the engine is cold, and it's a thermostatic device not a computer device, AFAIK, this might be something to check, especially if the megasquirt has some sort of cold engine enrichment program.

If I have a car to drive there and I find a source of income between now and then..... grrrr #@*#@$#@$*@#($*@#($@#$ being unemployed sucks!

Hey dingleballs, the guys at Laramie Machine are friendly, and they know their stuff, so I bet they'd know where to get them from. I know I had 2 left over from when I did that motor in that 83 hatchback but for the life of me I have NO idea where they are at, but I can have a look @ my folks house tomorrow afternoon. You should be OK with what you said about mix-matching parts, since as far as I remember the big difference is the hydraulic lifters and the oil passages and such for them. I've heard that the rocker assemblies are the same just the hydro lifter motors had the locking tabs on the ajusting nuts. I have no idea about this, but swapping parts around you might want to find out how to set zero lash on those rockers for optimum performance. Keep in mind though that the solid liftter EA81 heads have smaller valves! Isn't there an EA81 up @ Tech you can rob the heads off of? I MIGHT have a set of EA81 heads, I'm actually prettty sure I do, SEND ME MY DAMN PARTS and I'll send 'em to ya, make me an offer.

Check this one out Sounds like a Honda but it's an EA81 car with a 13B turbo rotary in it...

I've got my two Russian friends, Mosin and Nagant, under my bed, in case someone tries to steal my car....

Judging by the body kit, he's probably more concerned with the look of the carbon fiber hood than the weight savings... Making one isn't all that hard. One of the really simple ways I've seen people do, won't be as light as making it totally out of CF, but I've seen people make a carbon fiber or fiberglass "skin" and bond that onto the stock hood frame. (it's not SUPER simple as it does require grinding the old metal skin off). If you are going to make one, make sure you get ALL the dents filled in the hood, because you'd be using your hood to make a mold, and any imperfection in the hood will be in the mold, which will be in the finished hood. BASIC instructions: Coat hood with mold release agent Lay fiberglass matting over hood, brush on resin. Allow to cure (I don't know how long to let it cure, read the directions!) Apply another mat and resin. If you are only going to make one hood, you don't need more than two maybe three layers for the mold, however you will need to support it somehow so it doesn't warp. If you plan on mass-producing hoods, you will want to make it with four or five layers of cloth, or consider using another material to make the mold. Once the mold is fully cured, you pop it off the hood. Now, inspect the inside of the mold for any imperfections. Divots, etc.. can be corrected by filling with resin and sanding smooth. Mold needs to be smooth inside! For the first layer in the mold, you might want to use a fiberglass mat as opposed to cloth, as it will make a smoother surface. As for the hood itself, you'd want the cloth (be it fiberglass or carbon fiber) as that's probably the look you're going for. Once you are satisfied with the mold, coat it with release agent and lay in the first layer of cloth and saturate with resin. The rest of the process goes as the mold did, and if you are going to stick your skin over the old hod frame, two layers should be sufficient, otherwise you'll need to put some wood or aluminum bracing inside to stiffen it, these can be fiberglassed over. You'll also need to fabricate a place for the hood latch to go, if you aren't going to use hood pins. If you are, you'll want to apply resin around the holes after you cut them. (Best to use a fine-toothed hole saw and don't go too fast!) to keep it from cracking. Be careful! Might be better to mold the holes in.. Keep in mind that this is from memory from what I learned in street rod class at Wyotech almost two years ago, so I probably left something out! I think there is an article on Legacy Central on making a fiberglass hood... (Fiberglass and CF are pretty much the same thing, with the exception of the material that the cloth is made of. I think the resin is different but I am not 100% sure on this!)

These are some Subaru part numbers for different things, perhaps this could be expanded into a pretty extensive list, given enough time and people. These parts are for a 1990 Legacy LS 4WD wagon A/C Belt - 73013AA000 P/S, Alt belt - 80921870 (Says on invoice "part interchanges with 809218140") Oil Filter - 15208AA100 Pilot Bearing - 806212020 Throwout bearing - 30502AA051 Clutch Disk - 30100AA851 Pressure Plate - 30210AA600