Hondasucks

Get a test light, and ground one side to the block, and check the leads. One should have voltage to it, the other MIGHT with the engine off, but with the engine running, the negative side of the coil should cause the light to pulsate diring cranking/running. If it does not pulsate, the problem is probably in your distributor. If it does pulsate, and the coil is not producing any voltage, it's bad. If teh coil is putting out juice, but you aren't getting anything to your plugs, check your cap, rotor, and plug wires. To check the coil, stick a screwdriver in the big fat terminal on top of the coil (the one in the middle) and posistion it so that it comes close to something metal in the engine compartment, and have someone crank it over, you should see and hear a spark. If that works, plug the coil wire in, and then position the other end of the coil wire near the block, and have a buddy crank it over, should also see and hear a spark. If you don't, replace your coil wire. If you do, do the same with the plug wires, if you don't get spark from any of them, replace the cap and rotor.

I have a set of Falken Eurowinters on my 87 GL, I had got them with the 15 inch Legacy wheels (200 bucks for 4 wheels + 4 brand new snow tires, not bad eh?) Doing me good, it's supposed to snow tonight and I just spent $48 to have them mounted today. Gonna start looking for another set of wheels to mount my summer tires on.... 15 inch alloys.. 5 lug...

That's weird, my stop lamp checker was separate from the light unit, is in a small metal canister, about the size of an old mechanical turn signal flasher, and says "STOP LAMP CHECKER DO NOT DROP" on the case.

my 84 GL wagon had 343,000 when the motor blew (combination of a blown heater line, my stupidity, and a non-functioning temp gauge. But currently, I am in possession of an 86 GL-10 turbo with 314,000 on the odo, original motor as far as I can tell.. My 87 GL has 176k on the odo, true mileage is 171k, but the motor has been replaced and I dunno when (Ed, you know??) Check out http://www.subaruhighmileageclub.com if you haven't already... Esp. you guys with 400k on the odo, he doens't have any in the 400k section yet! I HAD an 86 XT 2WD n/a that had 285k on it, new oil pump, but other than that, original motor.

an EA81 Diesel is rumored to exist, used in FHI Forklifts. For some interesting biodiesel info, look at http://www.veggivan.com

You might be able to salvage teh old feet if you spray some PB Blaster on there, let it sit for like 20 minutes, adn then try using an EZ Out or a pair of vice grips to pull the old bolts out. If that doesn't work, maybe you can find one in a junkyard? I could prolly find a set and mail them to ya if ya want, I could get some for free I bet, wouldn't be too much $$ to send them off...

I was only gonna swap it if it was a direct swap, or one that required minimal snipping of wires. I'm just going to install an aftermarket temp gauge. But yeah, it's the 315k car from Hood River.

The digidash in my 86 GL-10 sucks, will an 87 dash swap? Also, there appears to be a "shift up" light in the dash, that never lights, is that an option we never got, or something like air suspension that never works? Some other neato things I discovered while tearing apart a digidash a while back to fix the temp gauge, I guess somewhere other than here, they had an indicator that told you what speed the cruise control is set at, cuz the display segments are in there, you have to actually take it apart to see them though.

Brian, shush :-P Yeah, it's n 86 GL-10 sedan. Sorry Caleb, the guy said he had no luck getting ahold of you so he called me, and he needed the car out of there ASAP. At any rate, new PCV and a bottle of stop-leak later, and it drove home from hood river without a hitch. Oddly enough, the guy used to live in Corvallis. *shrugs* oh well, gonna tinker with it and get it running good and then it'll be up for sale, I was gonna keep it and swap stuff over from my wagon since it's straighter, but when I got there to pick it up I discovered that it wasn't a wagon :-P

hey dingleballs, its OUR secretmoblie:D Yes it is a Subaru............ oh yeah this is Caboobaroo:rolleyes:

What's this? Looks like Andrew has picked up a new secretmobile... oh I wonder, what could it be??????? :brow: :brow: Anyone care to venture a guess??

I re-organzed my photo album so it's not quite so cluttered now, Also added some new pics of my 87 Turbowagon with its 5 lug conversion, and I also added some pics from this years Oregon Christmas tree run. http://usmb.net/gallery/Hondasucks

Oil vapors also come out as white smoke, although not as thick as water burning white smoke. When Turbo seals go out, the oil gets into the hot exhaust gases and it vaporizes, but does not burn, and comes out as white smoke. :-) Figured that one out myself.....

Air conditioned by Subaru = factory air, my 83 GL-10 has a similer sticker (Only it is just a square sticker that says "Air Conditioned by Subaru"), on the rear quarter window. The "Car is equipped for installation of optional A/C" sticker is ususally on the heater controls, between teh fan and temp dials on EA81 cars, and most of the time when the dealer installed the air, they failed to remove the sticker, so that is one way to tell if you have dealer air or not. I will snap a pic of my decal, and the dash sticker prolly tomorrow and post it. The dash sticker was only on EA81's, I've never seen an EA82 car with it.

I've heard of using some sort of grease or heavy oil (Grease would be better) on the base plate, under the rubber bag, to prevent it from rusting. Take some sand paper and sand off the rust, so it is smooth, and then coat it with grease. You'll probably need to re-apply the grease once every few months to keep it from rusting, but this should help as long as the rust has not worn through the rubber.

The XT6 struts attact to the knuckle in a COMPLETELY different way than other EA series struts, they are NOT interchangable!

Sounds like fun to me, where's Totem Lake :-P Can you get an address up so that those of us from out of town can get directions??

AS far as I know the rears are the same, I have 4WD XT6 rear control arms in my turbowagon, with the wagon struts. As for the front, they are different. You could either use 2WD XT6 struts, which will bolt right in, or you can use Legacy struts, which work but I think you need to grind out the tower a little bit where teh strut bolts in at the top. As for the air ride, I have no idea Diff lock - that unlabled switch might be it, if I remember correctly the diff lock in an XT is on the center console and its a flat switch, it's not a turn switch like in the RX.

Um, I dunno if it's just a new gen thing or not, but my 87 Subaru has teh thermostat up top.

I don't drink Budweiser, but Russ here thinks it's BEER, I think it's beer flavored water :-P Give me some Fat Tire, or Guinness, or Molson Ice, or Rolling Rock over that %*$*$ any day! So who's gonna send us some Yuengling? Or can we get it out here....

He didn't down any, sinc he was at my house when he did it, and I'm wasn't in a giving-russell-beer mood :-P but I'm sure he's downin some Budweiser now :-P -bleech-

Ill give you a hand, if I can round up the $$$ to make it up there :-)

yeah Brian that would be tight :-) But yeah my turbowagon decided she didn't want me to get rid of her so she decided to be cantankerous (and still is being so! Damn electrical gremlins...) But thank the Good Lord she decided to be cantankerous to the point of not running after we got back to Albany and not when we were up in the boonsticks.

yeah my Dad's DVOM has bad leads, my good one got stolen, and my cheesy 5 dollar one I fried :-| I do have a thing my Dad got me for christmas last year that has a bunch of lights on it that shows various voltages (has like, lights for 10, 12, 14 and 16 volts or something) I tried it and according to it the alternator isn't putting out any voltage, but my charge light doesn't come on... Ill check it out tomorrow when I have daylight.

OK something is %%*%cked up on my turbowagon. I am pretty sure the alternator is fried but I dunno. If you jump start it, it is fine, but the instant you remove the jumper cables, the voltage gauge drops, and then it dies soon thereafter. I've put three different batteries in it (Although I have not tried using a fully charged battery yet which is my next step, just kinda hard cuz I currently lack a battery charger), all to no avail. Even tried leaving it connected to the other vehicle for a while to hopefully charge the battery, but no dice. Any ideas?