Hondasucks

but .040 off with 1600 pistons, I don't think I know of anyone with an EA81 like that. I really don't know if you'll have valve interferance or not... you could assemble the block with the 1600 pistons and measure it up... put heads on and check for interference...

they have services for drilling and modifying our old EA81 single port heads to dual port, but it's around $1000 for both heads to be modified. Sub4 heads are $450 a piece.

I've got an EA81 88 hatchback in my driveway with an EA81 in it, and it's 2WD. My first Subaru was an 87 STD hatchback which was also 2WD, but it had a 4 speed and EA71. That hatch that demonkid showed a pic of is definately a GL, you are probably confusing the quad lights with the EA82 DL, which did in fact have quad lights. EVERY EA81 DL I've seen has had dual lights, not quad. And I have also successfully done a 2WD to 4WD swap, the car was originally an automatic though, not manual. And as for the EA81 being a performance upgrade over the EA81, the EA71 is 69 HP, the EA81 is 73, go through all that work for a measly 4 HP?

dude, your GF drives a brat? Kickass :-) Yeah don't; hack it up, get John to lift it for ya. That brat on the Ford frame or whatever, lives in Lebanon, Oregon. I tried contacting him to see if he still had the drivetrain, btu I got no reply :-(

Peugeot is the only other manufacturer with wheels that use the same bolt pattern. If you are mechanically inclined, you ca redrill Toyota 6 lug wheels to fit the Subaru, but unless you are lifted it will look funny due to the offset.

Can't be too nice to the guy, he did crush a 69 1/2 ff-1 that needed some front end bushings, ran just fine :madder: :madder: :madder: :madder: :madder: $*&$*@hole crushed it the day before I came out with $100 bucks for him for the car.

my Ebay name is bigbadsubaru. Tex, what do ya want for the bracket and stuff?? $25 bucks?

Well, I bid on a WRX I/C on Ebay, hopefulyl I get it. Does anyone want to offer me some help on how to pipe it in and stuff?? It should be fairly simple, but I know there are people on here who have done it before (Skip?) Dangit where is Sean when I need him :-P

ok well liek I said, offer him liek 3-400 for the whole car, with motor :-)

well if you are only gonna get rid of one of them, Brian can get better use out of it, and since he expressed interest before me, let him have it.

my 83 GL-10 when I put an analog dash in it, it read full when full, 1/2 tank was actually 3/4 tank, 1/4 tank was really 1/2 tank, and then E was E :-P

Sounds good to me, thanks!

$65???? I paid $42 for mine from Knechts.

I might be interested in one of those servers, what kind are they??

I did a auto to manual and then 2WD to 4WD in my 82 sedan, was not too hard at all. Biggest PITA was the stupid gas tank, which you won't have to do since the 2WD and 4WD EA82's had the same tank.

Mine is starting to stick a little bit, how hard are they to rewind the springs in??

Man, there are usually several pages with rallycross photos that pop up shortly after the event, what's goin on with this one?? Anyone get any good shots of my rig out flingin mud?

That was just what my teacher told me, and our jet washer is like a big washing machine that blasts the whole thing with like 12 jets of hot water and solvent. Looking at it I guess it wouldnt' have hurt, but he strongly recommended against it unless I tore the whole thing down. And no I would not have sold you a garbage tranny, saying it was rebuilt, it was tested on our tranny dyno before I brought it home.

Jon,haven't had a chance to mess with it, you should try to get that XT for like $400 with motor, $100 tops without the motor. The motor needs work but that car would be a bad rump roast mofo, being 2WD Turbo :-)

Well, glad you got your stuff Corky. Again, the reason I did not clean it is because I did not disassemble the front differential because we do nto have the tools to set the backlash or bearing preload, and I did not want to risk filling the diff with water by putting the tranny case in the jetwasher liek we normally do, since then you have to steam-clean the poop out of it to get the solvent off of it, which you have to do or the oil wont' adhere properly, and bye-bye front diff, so I figured whoever bought the tranny would rather it be dirty, than have the front diff fail.

w00h00 20th out of 23!!!! Not bad for my first RallyCross, and DID NOT HIT A SINGLE CONE!!! :-) or miss a single gate... And Matt, good job, even if you did beat me in my own car Congrats to Ed and John, and the rest of the gang. Hope I do better next year.. Gonna use my snow tires next year...

hmm.. Maybe for some reason the computer is not adjusting the timing properly?? Put a timing light on it and rev the engine up, you should be able to see the timing advance itself. I also remember hearing that there are two connectors you are supposed to hook together before setting timing?? To test the EGR valve: At idle, reach inside the diaphragm housing on the EGR valve and lift the diaphragm up, this will open the EGR valve. If the car starts to stumble (it might die even) then the EGR is working, if it does not stumble, then your passage could be blocked, or the valve stuck open (will idle rough with it stuck open) without EGR, the combustion temperature will rise, which CAN cause pinging (overly hot chamber leads to pre-ignition, fancy word for pinging).

Hey Corky, how's the transmission going? Get that T/C from Ed yet??

"At that point it's time to go inside and drink some beers" The trick is to have the beer outside while you're workin, just not to much, cuz drunkenness and heavy car parts don't mix. Also, about putting the T/C on before you put the tranny in, it is essential that you do it this way and MAKE SURE it is ALL the way into the tranny, and fully engaged with the hydraulic pump stuff, otherwise, you run the risk of destroying the hydraulic pump. It's harder to do on a Subaru, where the "front pump" is actually in the BACK of the transmission, driven off of a shaft instead of driven directly off a drive lug on the T/C like a RWD tranny is.

Also, get a manual, better mileage and more reliable, plus a lot faster than the auto trust me :-)