Hondasucks

It's Peugeot, (POOJ-oe) btw :-P

There is a soft metal ring around the U joint, and it is "Staked" in several places, basically you take a chisel and a hammer and you smack it, adn it drives some of the metal inward, holding the joint in place. To get it apart, you have to grind or break off the tangs. As for 150k, yeah if you drive it on the pavement a lot, but what about those of use who use our rigs for off-road, those joints could only last a few thousand miles if you get water or muid in there, which is why it would be nice if they at least had zerk fittings, so grease could be added.

Mine are llike, staked in, they COULD be removed, question is, is can you get replacement joints, and it looks like you could only re-stake it like 2 or 3 times before you'd run out of places to stake, although a staked ring is cheaper than a groove and a spring clip.

Went out and looked at my car, cuz my curiosity was up. I do not have a vac. advance on my dizzy, and my MAF LOOKS like a Hot-Wire type, but it has a plug in the side, adn if you take the plug out, there is a screw behind it that looks like an adjustment screw of some kind. Do I have some weird system??

Maybe you have a bad connection, and the gravel road is jiggling it aroudn and making it run crappy. Doesn't explain the boost deal though... I was going to sugges your MAF, but then I remembered that the turbos don't have a hot-wire MAF, although that COULD be the problem...

That is so stupid, why would they make the driveshaft with non-replaceable, non greaseable U joints? The front section is replaceable correct??

My 87 hatch didn't have the bigger clutch, but it was also an EA71... I am pretty sure that the 2WD didnt' have the bigger clutch, but you'll know when you pull the motor.

All the SPFI's I have seen, are hot-wire. My 87 Turbo is VAF (Vane Air Flow, i.e., flapper), my 86 XT Non-turbo was also VAF. I dunno if the later ones were Hot-Wire or not...

Yeah it was fun, Matt did a 360 in his Volvo as well. I woulda been flingin mud everywhere if I had my soob there, but I didnt want to run it with different size tires on the front and rear :-| I found it quite humorous that the guy in the Durango was bitchin about soobs in the Truck/SUV class after he lost to one

IF you are going to that much trouble, why dont' you just switch to a manual? You'll get more power to the ground that way.

You know, patching a gas tank is not all that hard. They make epoxy that is for patchign gas tanks.

IF you get a compressor with its own oil supply, you wont' have to use an inline oiler. Older Fords used em, as did some Chryslers. The Chrysler pumps are cylindrical in shape, btu they have a bulge on the bottom which is the oil reservoir. The Ford compressors are rather large, boxy things, and you can tell by the oil fill and drain plugs on them. These were used in teh 60s and 70s, I dunno how late they used ''em, maybe into the 80s. MY dad's Mustang has one on it. (64 1/2)

Check this out http://www.diversifiedcryogenics.com/ Cryogenic treating looks relatively inexpensive, and seems to make things last a lot longer. Mostly what gets broke on the axles is teh joints right? Send those in and have them Cryo treated and see if it helps.

I agree with Zap on this one. Don't go running your mouth unless you have the guts to back it up. Call our cars jimmy rigged, yeah, we have to MAKE all this stuff, with our own two hands. Lets see you make a 12 inch lift for your rig, with your own two hands. Yes, when they first talked about it, I had my doubts, but didn't say anything but words of encouragement, and I applaud them all for their efforts, and I am looking forward to hopefully spectating next year if they go (Don't quite have the off-road experience these guys do, and I dont' want to hinder them) Zap, I've got your first video, what do you want for the other 3 + the Rubicon video? I'll make sure to have some $$ set aside for it when the 'Con video comes out.

Come get that wagon if you still want it, he says come get it, it's free. it's getting towed very soon.

Don't forget to unbolt your muffler, and take the intake silencer out of the inner fender well. You can also cut the bottom of the airbox out, leaving a lip for the air filter to sit on of course, which will bypass teh silencer, ande will make the car make cool turbo sucking noises, as well as improve spool-up time and throttle response. Also check out http://www.subespeed.org/ he's got some good info in his FAQ section.

Russ had some guy try to bust the back window out of his Camaro a year or so ago.. but I suppose I'll let him tell the story when he gets back from CA As for me, I had my 87 hatchback cleaned out from in front of my house. The cops were less then helpful (Stupid lazy APD), the cop spent most of his time touching everything "Oh we can't get prints off this".. Never caught 'em or recovered my stereo :-( but about 2 weeks later, my dad came home early from work and saw this big jacked up Toyota in front of the house, and when they saw my dad they bolted, but dad got his plate #. Every time I saw him in traffic or around town, he'd try to get away from me, but I couldn't prove anythign so I was pretty much screwed.

I'm gonna go dig in the JY and see if a 4WD XT6 has the 14mm bolt in the control arm, rather than the 17mm bolt that my XT6 arms (2WD) came with.

I got the XT6 arms, and the XT6 arm won't fit into the bracket on the cross member. The bolt it uses is bigger, and even after drilling the crossmember out to take the bigger bolt, the top of the housing where the control arm bushing is is too big and it hits the bracket, and won't let the arm go in far enough to line up the bolt.

For some reason, my lower ball joint on the XT6 knuckle is bigger than the one on my 4 lug knuckle, and would not fit into my lower control arm. Everything else bolted in exactly as I suspected, except that damn lower ball joint! Now I've got a front-end *clunk* when I shift, so I gotta tinker with it tomorrow before I head up to Jasons....

Those axle disconnects would be handy for the rear of a Soob, if you have a welded rear diff, would eliminate teh need to remove and re-install one of teh rear axles. Two would be useful to disconnect the rear diff completely, eliminating teh drag of teh rear diff and drive shaft, which would also save gas :-)

WEll, I'm putting the old 4 lug crap back in. Looks like 2WD XT6 knuckles are different than 4WD knuckles :madder: :madder: :madder: so I guess it is back to the junkyard to get the correct knuckes:boohoo: so is there anything else you guys who have done the swap would care to enlighten me on? So, for future reference, it looks like you gotta be sure to use FOUR WHEEL DRIVE front knuckles.....

I dunno, our boys seem to have a keen sense of direction. I've been out wheelin with John (Mudrat79) more than once, and I've had no clue where the %*%*# we were, but he'd whip out his map and be like "we're right here" (Yeah, I use a map too, but I have to hunt to figure out where I am :-P Maybe John uses better maps or sumpin... Hey Soobichic, what kinda soob you got?

OK The back is done. I started on the fronts today. I pulled the strut and knuckle and crap out of the driver's side, and I started to bolt the XT6 parts in. Teh lower ball joint would not go in, so I started to swap the control arm. Control arm's bolt was bigger, so I drilled my Xmember out to accept the larger bolt. Now I discovered that the stupid strut rod thingie (Rod that goes from teh LCA to the body) is longer on the XT6 control arm. I looked at Corky's page, and it mentions NOTHING of him having to swap out the lower control arms. Why am I having so much trouble???????? If anyone wants to call me and explain to me what the $*$* I'm doing wrong, I'll be out in the driveway cussing, my cell # is 541-979-0564 and if that does not work, my house # is 541-924-9001 Thanks! --Andrew

You might want to consider an intercooler, running high amounts of boost generates a lot of heat, an intercooler will reduce this heat, making the intake charge denser, which in turn gives you more power. Will also decrease the liklihood of detonation. Now, you will also probably want to get a good A/F Ratio meter, adn a boost gauge. The boost gauge will help keep you from running too high a boost, say, if your wastegate decides to stick shut, and the AF meter will show you if you are running lean, a condition which can melt pistons, among other things. Also, take your airbox out and cut the bottom of it out, this will increase the intake airflow. You can also remove the intake silencer out of the passenger side fenderwell, but this is not 100% necessary if you cut out the airbox. This will also make your car make cool turbo sucking noises that make the ricers scatter:brow: