msmithmmx

On ebay right now there is one for 800.00 with blow HG's. The high end is 1700.00. If you can't do this repair yourself I would stay away from this project. To many working OBW's on ebay to go this route. I just turned one down for 1,100 w/ 200K miles w/ blown HG. My limit is 800.00

After running this through 6 filters, 4 of which I had to buy from Adobe as pluggins for the cost of 179.99 I have figured it out. 1) I am an idiot for spending 179.99 2) Your head lights are on and all of your drive lights are illuminating. Where do I me my metal for figuring this out

Or you could remove the flywheel access hole and stick a wrench in there to lock it up. You Decide:headbang:

I have this doc saved for these posts Going to make this simple for you as I have done the 2.5 to 2.2 on a Legacy Outback. I used a 97 2.2. From the donor car (450 dollars tops) 1) Engine / use the exhaust manifold from the 2.2 donor 2) AC Compressor and hoses from your 2.5 mount onto the 2.2 3) Metal Power steering lines from the 2.2 move them over 4) The fly-wheel from the 2.5 will have to be moved over to the 2.2. From Subaru 1) All new exhaust gaskets (10 dollars) 2) new o-rings for the AC hoses you disconnect 3) new o-rings for the power steering lines you disconnect From Walmart 1) 2 cans of 12 oz refrigerant and a refill hose (30 bucks) While you are at it replace this on the 2.2 donor (100 bucks) an easy to do with the engine out. 1) Harmonic balancer (50 ebay) 2) AC and Alternator belts (20 pepboys) 3) Rear cam seal (5 dollars) 4) Oil Separator Plate (sure to be leaking, original is plastic) (15 dollars) 5) Rear main seal. (20 dollars) 6) Spark Plugs (10 dollars) 7) PCV Valve ( 8 dollars) 8) Valve cover gaskets (2 of these) and grommets for the bolts (30 dollars) 9) Reseal the oil-pan and replace both gaskets that are internal. (RTV temp sealer 4 bucks, gaskets are 10 bucks)

Sounds like you have air in line. Have someone turn the wheel left to right as you pour fliud back into the power steering pump. Should use almost a quart.

It took 90 minutes to swap the starter out. Total cost was 80 dollars. Does anyone know what it would have cost at a dealer? I like to know what I saved.

My starter went, it either does not crank or when it does it will not stop spinning when the engine is on (sounds like hell broke loose). I went to Peps and picked one up for 75 bucks. Does anyone have the torque specs for the mounting bolts? I am thinking 60 pounds

500 bucks for a car with 220K, NO. With that many miles I am sure the suspension is worn. I had the same deal a few months back, I passed.

To bad the cross-member is in your way of taking off the oil pan. Time to pull the engine again, get to work

The way you described that leak and you mentioned the "catalitic converter" you have a leak at the rear main seal or the oil separator plate. To fix both the engine has got to come out. My guess is the oil separator plate, the old ones are plastic, Subaru now makes them out of metal. When I pulled my 2.5 out it was leaking BAD, all over the O2 sensor. I would do what the smart people on this board do, dump the 2.5 and get yourself a 2.2.

Dude, go to Pepboys the rotors are 19.99 each. the pads will be around 40 each for the front and back. I am using them now with no issues

Wow, it is these stories that make me see red. AS/IS does not give them the OK to sell you a car that was never working. If he told you this car is in working order then you have a case. I am sure it was traded in or sold becasue it had a busted head gasket. I would be nice about it and if he will not budge I would go to small claims court and sue for the repair which could be 1800 dollars. You were scammed fight back..

Sounds like it fell out or he did not put it back on. You not going to know until you plug that hole and have a good listen. If you need it quick I would go to the dealer. Are you sure its plastic? if you can wait I may have one on the engine that is sitting in my garage.

If you are pulling the engine up and the transmission is raising up with it you still have something connected. Did you disconnect the engine mounts from the cross member? Are you sure you got every bolt that connects the fly wheel from the torque converter? Take a ruber mallet and give the seem between the engine and the transmission bell housing a god wack or two.

I am on yahoo instant messenger, msmithmmx.

Yes you need to remove the starter, the bolt connects the engine to the transmission bell housing.

Remove the starter, its one bolt. That bolt is long and connects into the transmission.

You removed the starter correct! If so and you still have a bolt left you will need to use a swivel head with your socket. Can you take a pic of your problem. Is it seperating from the transmission at all?

The plugs on the back of the radio are all the same. I have this one in my 98 OBW, LOVE IT. If yours has 2 then the small one is for the sub-woffer, you don't need it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-SUBARU-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-RADIO-6-DISC-CD-CHANGER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38640QQihZ005QQitemZ150118016585QQrdZ1

Dude, you need to pop open that rubber stoper on the top of the engine and remove the 4 bolts holding the flywheel to the torque converter (transmission).

Mother of God, that looks like something from Saw II. Is that safe?

Is swapping the struts a big deal? Any special tools?

If you post a pic of what your dash looks like I could help you. I was not aware that the 02 had seperate CD/Tape/Radio.

My engine ticks, knocks and piston slaps also at startup and goes away at operating temp (2.2 170K). This is somewhat normal due to Subaru casting the blocks for operating tempature or so I am told. If you could post a sound clip lets give it a listen.

Please take you OBW to the hospital for a check-up from the plug up STAT.