Leeroy

Cool!

+1

' Great!:-\ Just purchased a 76 GL coupe which should be transported home this week. Would have preferred the 74!

Australia never had the 5mph bumper regulations, so we never got the bumpers with the shock absorbers. Basically our gen 1s had the same bumper as the 4WD models in the US regardless of body type. All Stage 1 had the small, neat (although practically useless ) chrome bumpers. So a 1974 coupe looks the same as a 1976.

Kind of like and then :-\ ... Hmmm... Me thinks the USMB should have a 'rusty finds' thread! The orange (and rust!) coupe is really old, looks like a 72 model. Wonder what year it is?

For years my EA81 had a severe knock first thing every morning. So bad I have a spare EA81 sitting in the garage as I always thought I would need to change it sooner rather than later! Funny thing was, once I started using genuine Subaru filters the noise stopped! I used Ryco filters (which were once a well respected Australian brand) but now only use genuine or Purolator (Purolator have only recently become available here where I live) which seem to be OK so far. So yes, I think there is more noise on start-up from badly made oil filters.

True! I have owned my wagon for 10 years and only put the Pugs on this year. (Have been after a set for years!)

Alloy pugs not available in Australia? What do you think is on my wagon? Sure they are not easy to get (and most Pug owers want them to replace their metric 390mm rims) but you can still find them.

Cool! They have always been my favourite factory alloy wheel.

Indicator lense

EA81 wagon and sedan seat rails are completely different, so they are not a direct bolt in. I am not sure about Gen 2 Brumby/Brat seats though (Or Hatches as they never sold here). The seats certainly look the same but I have not confirmed if the seat rails match.

Hmmm... Never had any problems with my heater core, but a spare one could not hurt! Possibly stage 1 and stage 11. The heater valve is what I really need (as others have also mentioned). Saw one on eBay once, wanted $US50 and would not ship to Australia. Damn! :-\

Did you also get new lock washers for the inner tie rods? These washers bend over the inner tie rods to lock them in place. I have re-used old ones in the past, just be careful when you straighten them!

Excellent view! Oh yeah... Good luck!

Cool! There can never be enough old Subies:grin: It has to be older than 1978 though, mine is a 78. At a guess its from 1976 or very early in 1977 before Subaru changed over (... to the Gen 1 Stage 11) Good luck with it!!

The gaskets were thanks to USMB (Moosens and SUBARU3 in particular), check this thead; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68633

Finally used the new windscreen gasket in my wagon. This deserves a dancing bannana (or two)! :banana: Finally no more leaks:grin: And thanks to Subaru3 for the idea to use the later EA81 chrome strips!

I think you will find the EA71 engine will not simply be a 'bolt on' job. The gearbox for the 74 1400 is quite different to the later 1600 models. It can be done but I think you need to 'space' the gearbox from the bell housing. The transmission main shaft is straight in 1974 gearboxes, from 1975 it is on an angle. I agree with subiemech85, first thing to do would be to adjust the valves then re-check your compression numbers.

Just checked my 74 coupe and the vacuum advance hose connects to the carb.

I use a Gen 2 Brumby/Brat rubber coupling (rag joint) in my 1978 wagon with no worries at all. The 4 holes have exactly the same spacing, so I would think the VW part would fit as well.

Cheers Caboobaroo! That's the information I was seeking.

Thanks Rob. I have actually read that post. Perhaps I am missing something but it only tells me I do not need the ballast resistor coil. Do I just leave the wires dangling or are they connected to the positive on the coil?

I understand the ballast resistor is not needed when using an electronic distributor (with the appropriate coil of course!), however, despite several searches I cannot find a definitive answer as to where the wires for the original ballast resistor go. Is it just a matter of connecting these wires directly to the new coil? Do you, for example, connect the positive wire from the ballast resistor to the positive side of the coil and the negative to the negative side? Does the ballast resistor even have a negative side? Thanks in advance for any replies! Cheers Lee

I don't think you will find a PCV valve on your 1400 kiwi subbie! Australian models do not have them. The only positive crankcase ventilation our EA63 engines have is the 2 rubber hoses that go from the valve covers to the air cleaner. There is no PCV valve in the intake manifold. I should have added that I am assuming New Zealand engines will be the same as those in Australia.

Thanks adam! Yes Australia certainly has great potential for solar, we just never seem to get around to doing it on a large scale. At the moment there is talk about nuclear power (50 year old technology if you ask me). Depends on which government gets elected I suppose. We have 240 volt electricity in homes here, I wonder if that would mean a quicker charge? Although 5 hours is really good!