Crawlerdan

our cars, as well as most, use an idle up sequence to warm themselves the cars starts when cold, idles at 1500 or so, then drops down to a standard idle how long does this take in your car? how long is it supposed to in a 91 ej22 5spd? the reason i ask is i installed a new IAC and i want to insure the car is healthy now

i just removed the flap

well, the car is lifted a little, i have forester struts and front springs, as well as forester trailing arms everything works perfectly, and im quite happy with how it sits, i dont really want to go any higher the issue was-slight rubbing under severe bumps- most of the time not a big deal- what i wanted to prevent was the whole family and gear in the car-it would have happened alot more, and pissed me off. the rubbing was only in the last 25% of suspension travel., but when loaded would have been far more noticable problem solved now, i could put a larger tire on now with no issues

mine is an l, not a gt, it had the flaps, i just removed them, trimed teh rear bumper area, i could jump it now with no rub, problem solved

most flywheels/flexplates are designed to go on only one way- for balancing the uneven spacing insures proper installation

it just barely kisses the mud flap on severe loading...like i hit a speed hump doing 45mph but that will increase when i put the whole family and gear in it

i looked at subtle- i know they will work in the front, but not sure, but i dont think they will work in the rear any conformation there>?

forester and outback struts are the same but i cant use those springs in my wagon, i need a tapered spring

ok- nipper hit the nail on the head, theer just plain is no room for a finger, let alone roon for me to finger it out> so- who, if anyone, makes a strut top spacer?

what springs? in the main springs??....theres a strut rod in there if i had 1 inch spacers for the strut tops it would probably be ok i still want air springs for adjustability though....ill go into engineer mode tommorow and finger it out:grin:

i want to add these, in addition to the factory stut and spring

its not bottoming out, i have 225 70 16s on it...big rump roast tire it rubs the rear bumper i want to add air shocks to provide more capacity during loaded periods, to prevent this from happening. all the suspension is BRAND new, i just chose to install a very large tire with minimal lift

ive got a 91 wagon with forester gr2s, and big tires, no lift otherwise. when loaded with weight or i hit a big bump, tires kiss body not a big deal, and it doesnt happen enough to care about, but i am planning a 3k mile drive with the whole family and gear- so it will happen frequently on my trucks ive added a simple air shock, add air= increased carrying capacity i want to do the same to teh legacy- like weld on mounts to the lower a arm, and make a bracket at teh body to hold teh other end. anyone done something similar?

GIGGITY:banana:

i too would like a price and date of availiability, ill probably pick one up

good to know- thanks- like i said its not really that big of a deal, the cars runs like new aT ALMOST 350K, so i cant complain too much, ill try a seafoam clean and go from there

it reads 22lbs at idle, liek i said, about 1100 rpm

well thanks for the reply- i definately do not have a vac leak, i have a guage and monitor it like a hawk (part of my hypermiliage techniques) i havnt seafoamed it...might try that is there an IAC adjustment? also i think the air fuel mix is off, its the screw on top of the throttle body. what are teh proper setting procedures?

ok first- i just spent an hour searching and reading -so lay off i have a 91 legacy wagon, ej22, 5spd ive had it for a few months and noticed it idles high, dont really car, but im sure i would see better mpgs if it was correct. it idles at 700 or so after warm up sequence- good after a few miles it will creep up to 1050 or 1100 thats a little high for me no CEL, runs perfect, seeing no other problems, and getting 38mph hwy (im an ametuer, and SAFE hypermiler) sugestions?

you would be alot happier with a 2.2 that ej22 is considered the best motor made by many in the subaru world the 2.5 will offer you a little more horsepower, but will cost you greatly in the reliability department, and they require a tad more room as they are quad cam...unless you go with the SOHC 2.5 which is badass, but all phase 2 and obd2...wiring headache compared to what you just did. buy another donor car and have at it buddy...i might have another soon

good to know, i generally install canadian specs on customers cars that fail

in the US seat belts on these cars move when you open the door, and automatically close on you when you shut the door, you guys have standard fixed belts. we generally do not like them as they are unreliable with age, and they bug some people. i dont mind, as mine work well, and its impossable for me to get a seatbelt fine:grin:

i paid 2k for it

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115812 BIG GRABBER AT2S SEEN HERE

well, today i cut off the pevious giant wing nut latch, and replaced it with a toyota pickup tailgate latch, way easier to use