backwoodsboy

WELCOME! Youre Loyale is white with a blue interior... you just bought it off Craigslist, ....right?!

I am bowing out.

GD.... Dont wanna argue over this, I was just giving my opinion. I shouldve just said "too many sensors" period. You undoubtedly "know youre stuff" more than I do, but I grew up with ea82 SPFI troubles. Ive had my share of TPS problems, therm sensor problems, and O2 sensor problems. Every day there are threads on here with someone (sometimes me) trying to diagnose an SPFI related malady. On paper, the SPFI is far superior without a doubt. In my own experience however, a weber carb is easier to deal with, and more user-friendly. For a FEW less HP, and maybe 1 mpg less (or so), youve got a reliable system with the weber. How often are there folks on here complaining that their weber-carbed engine wont run right? Call me old school, sorry.

I would only change it if you are "fed up" with your carb setup. (its giving you big problems?) If you are only changing for a power gain, I would say to change to a weber carb, and have done with it. The SPFI works nice.... when it works. EDIT: Too many sensors IMHO

Definitely not a '78 ..... but CLEAN!!!

My Loyale is a 2WD The Loyales came either as a 2WD, 4WD (single range), or 4WD (dual range) The four-wheel Loyale was exactly that too... 4X4, and is different than the AWD that you can drive on pavement. The four-wheel drive versions are primarily FRONT wheel drive, of course until you engage the 4X4. As was mentioned above, if theres a rear differenial in the back, she's 4X4 As for a VIN error.... I highly doubt that. Somebody couldve MADE it into a 2wd FROM a 4WD ... but I also highly doubt that. Any pics?

Ill second this. With youre EA82 style wagon, a 5 speed will fit right in. Wait for it. :cool:

just post the links, Ill do the rest.

*whispers* Steve.... post pics.

As far as Im concerned, there is nothing better than an early 90s legacy (wagon or sedan ... get a wagon if you want the utility) These had the EJ22 engine, and if you get one with a manual trans, it can last you 300,000 plus miles. my .02

The wiper motor isnt *cake* to change.... but in my opinion, its a lot easier to change than the whole rear gate! You take off the interior trim on the gate, undo the wiper arm on the outside (and the shaft retaining nut that holds the shaft to the gate) Then you unplug the electrical, and remove the fasteners that hold the motor in place. Installation is the reverse of removal.

+1 on the vacuum connections. I have a couple of the "mode control" switch panels.... heat/defrost/bi-lev etc. Pm me your addy if you need one, and Ill send it your way. I also have an EA82 rear wiper motor if you need it, on my "parts wagon" Lemme know.

That happened to my parent's 78 (back in the day) The thing wouldnt start ... the battery was frozen. New battery = started right up, and we just let 'er run till she melted off. Nice pics.

First I was like ...then ....then Then I decided there was nothing to be done but have a "sit down" and talk it out. Now Im Talk to your subie.

Skip, I like your "shop chair"

Thats a nice looking rack, but if I had a suggestion, I would say to reverse the slant on the guard piece in front of the lights. It looks hot.... but I can just SEE that thing with about 20 LBS of leaves and branches wadded in there against the roof after a healthy fire trail run. My .02

Ive gotten more attention in my lifted Brat than in anything else Ive ever driven. (and that includes a couple trucks that are MORE off-road capable) +1

Ill second the Krylon Fuzion. Nice stuff. As far as plastic-restorer, we have some stuff at the shop that works nice, but its professional-grade. Sale to the public is like 150 bucks a gallon (or so our distributer says) *pukes* armor-all = CRAP

can we say over-steer? It actually looks like they've beefed up the back suspension to even things out a bit. I give it a thumbs up! (yeah, any interior pics?

Nice spot. ...its actually off of my mom's old 79 wagon (RIP) It was the only non-rusty part that was salvageable.

That is beautiful. Ironically, I was always a little jealous of the single-tone bajas. The hard "paint-to-match" bed cover is the best.

Those are a nice bonus! The timing belt is (was) due at 105,000 miles. From your description, I'll bet he had it done. However, super-obsessive owner or not, make SURE you see documentation that he changed that belt. Your engine = trashed if the timing belt breaks. Post some pics when you get 'er home! *sniff* ...now I miss my old baja.

Get a copy of all his maintenance records if you can. If he doesnt have them, perhaps the dealership where he had it serviced will give them to you. Timing belt is MOST important. At 110,000 miles, it IS due. 110,000 on a properly maintained subaru is NOTHING. If he's taken care of it, its practically new. A/T or M/T? EDIT: The dealership where you are buying it will probably give you a booklet that has recommended maintenance schedules in it. WARNING: Some dealers put together their "own" maintenance booklets that include services that arent necessary, and are overpriced. Look carefully at what they give you (and post it in this thread if you can) They want to make $$ AFTER the sale as well. MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR YOUR SUBIE >>> http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html

As long as you still retain the crossover pipe at the front. Without that, your power will suffer. I also wouldnt run pipe much larger than stock dia. or your low-end will go in the toilet.

After I took the rear driveshaft out, I drove 'er for the whole summer with no problems. At somewhere around the 275,000 mile mark, the (very tired) tranny said enough was enough, and reverse started to slip. I technically still have the car, but it was in bad enough shape .... :eek: :eek: .... that I cannibalized the engine for another project, as I couldnt see spending anymore $$ on a car that only cost me $250.00 "Trusty Rusty" lives on!