mdjdc

There is an outback limited in a yard here is Richmond. Is yours the front or the rear roof that is leaking> If you want me to I can go and pull the roof for you and see if it is in good shape. I'm sure it will be way less expensive than the repair you are looking at.

IRWIN makes a set of sockets for removing rounded off bolts. They only work in the off direction. You have to pound the socket on with a hammer and then keep pressure into the bolt to break it loose. I have used these several times and they work very well. now that you have the intake off you have enough access to use one of these sockets. They are sold at most autoparts stores and NAPA.

Call me before you do that

When I bought them I was doing several ej25 jobs and they were worth the money. Really a time saver and saved some of the bolts that were difficult to get at. Overall I'm glad I got them. You can also get an open end wrench that has a socket on the other end. The socket flops to the side so that you can get great access in tight spaces like the access hole for the flex plate. Another option would be to unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the motor. You might be able to access the bolt from underneath. I can't remember if I had done it this way, but I do remember getting access to the bottom so that I could tighten up the crank bolt and hold the flex plate with a pry bar. Check and see if that is a possibility for your car.

I found a set on ebay too http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EZ-Red-NR5M-Flexible-SplineRatcheting-Wrench-Set-Metric_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c524e9b5bQQitemZ190359444315QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

I paid 120 for my set and I love them. They have a long reach, reversing rachet and a flex head. They work on a combination of nuts and bolts. Very versatile. Here is a link to a page I found for you. A bit more than I paid though. http://www.toolsource.com/metric-double-universal-spline-ratcheting-wrench-p-105105.html

I bought a nice set of spline racheting wrenches. They fit on spline heads as well as normal boltl. The heads flex so you can get good contact and I use them every time I pull a motor to get the flex plate bolts off. If you run into a problem, let me know and I can run up ther this Sunday and give you a hand. I am just in Richmond. My phone number is 804-393-0516 Mike

I've done several by dissolving automatic dishwasher detergent in hot water and then putting that in the core overnight. Flush in both dorections the next day and watch al the crap come out. After that, I had the best heat ever. I've done an ea82 radiator that way too.

If you can work on an ea82 you can work on the ej25. you just have to be methodical about it. Go ahead and pull the engine and do the HG's, you will be glad you did. While the engine is out you can do a reseal and the plugs and wires. Swap in a new timing belt and water pump and you are in great shape. If you feel uncomfortable about the job, you can call me and I will give you the lowdown on the job. I can source the parts for you too. Once you have torn into the engine, you will feel comfortabel doing any repair job this baby needs. By the way, it looks pretty good cleaned up My number is 804-393-0516 Mike

You may very well have an alternator going bad and that may have burned out your blower. I would get the alternator checked. Most parts stores do that for free nowadays. The blower problem may also be the rheostat that controls it's speeds. i would unplug the blower and put twelve volts across the plug. If it comes on, you most likely need the rheostat. No matter what the problem, I have all of the parts necessary for you to get back to a fully operatiing blower. I would not put an aftermarket alternator in. I have and every one lastes six months or less. Let me know if I can help you with parts. I have a 90 loyale donor car.

Thanks Gary, That's what I was thinking. Glad ther might be a work around.

Are the front hubs on a 200 outback the same as the hubs on a 96 outback? I have a friend wht bad bearings on his 96 and a donor 2002 if they fit. Thanks Mike

I have a friend woth a 96 OBW and she is having a weird problem. She can start the car just fine, but once it gets warm and she drives it and then shuts it off for a brief period, it doesn't want to start up again. She said it just turns over and acts like it is flooded. I'm thinking that there is a problem with the coolant temp sensor. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Mike

If I were you, I would use the rear cat that has the O2 sensor in it and use the extension wire over the tranny to get it to plug into the harness. I think if you don't, you are going to get the dreaded O2 sensor ineficiency code. Just my 2 cents Cheers

My 99 outback had bot o2 sensors in the front cat and that is why I think I was getting the O2 inefficiency CEL code. I was going to swap in another rear cat with a bung, but I sold the car.

I was lucky enough to get a brand new motor that way and it was an excellent one. These motors have been imported for years and they are fairly reliable. Just do routine stuff before you install it. Timing belts and water pump, reseal the oil pump and then install the engine.

The 2.2 ans the 2.5 trannies are not the same. The final drive ratios are different. You can do the swap, but you will have to swap over the rear from the donor car as well.

I'm still her, just been kind of busy. If you want to switch it to a 5spd, I have one of thowe too. I even have the pedal bos and the clutch cable. I have a flywheel too, but it probably needs to be resurfaced. I don't have the shifter, but I may be able to get one for you. Since you are going to have the tranyu out, that would be the time to do the swap. If you want the automatic. it is in a running car. Right now I am tapped out, so I couldn't buy the car and you are so far away that I can't even think of transporting the car to here. It is really nice looking though. I think you should fix it and keep it on the road. Let me know if you want my parts and I'm sure we can work something out. Mike Pm me or email mdjd1@gmail.com

The last time I did mine, I unbolted the motor mount on the side I was sorking on and did the job. Much easier and less cursing. I use an old wire boot to put them back in so that I cannot possibly crossthread them. Of course, the boot is not a subaru boot and I leave a little of the wire on it so I have something to spin. This system works great and was shown to me by my mechanic.

I also have a couple of ignition switches. It is located on the column at the back side of the key tumbler.

The engines should be the same. You might have to swap a few sensors and the trannies should be the same too, but of that I am not certain.

You should always have the car in $wd before you attempt to do any slippery stuff. It sounds to me like the system wasn't fully engaging and that prop\bably due to trying to shift "on the fly". The system really wans't designed for that. If I have to drive in bad weather, I just engage the 4wd and leave it. As long as you aren't on dry pavement, you will be fine. Try putting the car in 4wd while stopped and the drive a bit ans see if the sound it replacated. I bet it isn't. If it is, then you will have to track down the cause.

If you think there is damage to the box, leet me know. I have two of them.

Just let me know what weekend you want to come down. I know that next weekend is out, but there is time coming up that I have free. Pm me and we can get the timing down. Mike

Head gasket failures on these are a weird bird. your compression test will most definitely come up normal. They leak into the cooling jacket and cause the coolant to overheat and then boil out of the rad. Then the car starts to everheat and that is what you see on the temp guage. As I said, I've done several of these and other mechanics have been at a loss as to how a car with goo HG's overheats, when in fact, the HG's are bad, but only mildly so. Don't wait too long. We can do the axle at the same time we are doing the HG's. As long as the axle isn't making any noise, I wouldn't worry about it, it will last until you can get down here. Cheers