mdjdc

Wow: 1700.00 is outrageous!!! I do them for 1100.00 and that includes all seals water pump and a new OEM timing belt. Another 100.00 if youwant all new idlers and tensioner. 24 hours is a bunch of horse sh... My best friend is a mechanic and his book lists 10 hours. Your guy has his head up his azz. Good luck

Glad you got it fixed. I told you you had a leak somewhere. Nice that you found it and didn't have to pay for a new pump.

I have one laying around. Let me know if you want it. It is on a loyale, so I know it is the right one.

Inspect the lines for cracks. I doubt that just loosening the belt will have any effect. You can try some LUCAS power steering stop leak and that may fix the problem.

Cavitation happens when air gets into the system. That may be your pump ofr perhaps some air got in when you did the head work. Sit the car on jack stands and run it. while doing this open the resevour and turn the wheel from one side to the other. Go completely from stop to stop. Do this for a while and see if you can get the air out of the system. It may take a while, but you should be able to do it. If the foaming stops and the noise doesn't, then your pump is shot. Hopefully you can fine the source of the air coming in and fix that and be done with the problem Good Luck

Have you had the timing belt replaced? It could be a tensioner or idler pulley gone bad and the belt is burning over it. It could also be the sepentine belt. I would get it checked out ASAP. The blower motor doesn't have any rubber in the workings, so I doubt that that is the problem.

Hey Sparky: I'm not in SC, but I am not too far away in Richmond VA. Good to have another USMBer on the east coast. Good luck on the drive and be careful. When you get here, let me know if you need anything, I have a small stash of parts.

I have the vac pump you are looking for. I PM'd you.

I have a cam sprocket if you want one. Let me know.

Don't order the clutch packs. I have a good set of them here and if we need to we can replace yours with these. At this point, I have not seen a torque bind situation where they need replacing. When they lock up they do not wear. It is only when they are slipping. The real problem is in the solenoid and the drum, both of which we will work on when you get down here. Mike

Just let me know when you are ready to fix the car and we can get her done.

If he wants to come down, we can make a day of it and he can provide the food and drink. I'll do all of the hard labor and make sure the tranny is right.

It can be done curbside, but the apartment people might get upset. You need to be careful not to lose any bolts and you will lose 4.5 qts of fluid in the repair. If you feel energetic, come on down to Richmond and we can fix it together in my work shed. That way if it rains we ae covered and if it is cold we can stoke up the fire. I have all of the tools necessary for the fix. PM me if you want to get more info on the repair.

If you decide to replace the calipers with kown good ones, I have two sets of EA calipers that I can send you. Both are off good cars, one was in an accident and the other was parted out due to engine troubles. Let me know if htis is appealing to you. This way you will have good ebrakes too.

Tom: Sorry, been pretty sick and it has been raining the past week. I will try to get you those pics this afternoon. Mike

I can tell you right now that the flush will not work. You have a mechanical problem and that must be addressed. Do Not waste the money on all of that oil. You need to remove the extension housing, pull the output shaft and repair the grooves in the drive drum. I wouldn't even replace the clutches. They are around 500.00 and I have never had to replace them. Get a new duty c solenoid from subarupartsforyou. here is the link and the part you need is the first one listed. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Transmission+Solenoids When you have the housing snd output shaft off you can pull the drive drum and it's shaft You will see grooves in the drum on the sides of the teeth and you must grind them smooth. I used a dremel. Once you have thet done, you can reassemble everything and it should run like a top. PM me if you have any questions or you can call me direct 804-393-0516 I will help you out any way I can. The fix really isn't that difficult and you can do it in about 2-3 hours.

Where are you located? I'm sure there are board members willing to help you fix this problem. I'd be willing to bet the house that you have a bad Duty C solenoid and need to fix the drum in the extension housing. I have done several of these and the fix is great.

It is either for those or checking the transmission codes.

As long as the exhaust ports are the same, you should be able to use several years of engines. You may have to use your intake, but that is not a big deal. There are other members that will chime in on the years you can use, but you are not limited to a 99 alone.

I'm up in Richmond and I'm pretty sure that I have a pulley. Come on up and I will give it to you. While you are here I can explain how you can fix this and not have to replace the engine. I've done it before. I know I wouldn't drop in another engine over this issue. PM me if you are interested.

You may actually have a small leak in the transmission modualtor valve. The line that goes to the tranny is going to that valve and is required for shifting. Look inside the line off the tranny and se if there is any red oil in there. If so you should replace the modulator and the problem should go away.

First of all, I definitely would NOT test the 4wd on pavement. You can bind up the components and then have a bear of a time getting them to disengage. Worst case, you can cause some damage. you can easily put it on a lift and engage the 4wd and see the rear wheels spin. They shold not spin when the 4wd is disengaged. That is true of both auto and manual trannies. As far as I am concerned, that is the most responsible way to check the system.

Send me your email addy and i will get you some top of engine pics off of my 92 loyale. The pcv system is the same. If you need any hoses or connectors, i probably have them in my storage shed. As to your sensor question. The gl10 has an idiot light for the oil and not a pressure guage, so you may have to change out the sending unit on the oil pump. If the one you have is a small unit then you have the right one. The one for a pressure guage is large and on the front of the oil pump angled down. it is about the size of a walnut. The idiot light sender is about the size of a dum dum lolly pop. All of the other sensors should match up just fine. Mike mdjd1@gmail.com

I have a known good switch sitting right here with me. I pulled it for another board member several months ago and he flaked on me. I can have it boxed up and in the mail via priority mail tomorrow. If you want it just paypal me 30.00 and I will send it tomorrow. That will be the total cost shipped My paypal acct is midlochiro@verizon.net Mike

First things first. Does the engine even turn over? Are you getting power to the starter? Is the starter hooked up to the ignition. There are the two battery cables and then the ignition wire. It is a smallish brown/black wire that hooks onto the starter. Without it the starter won't even click. As far as the ATF, the tranny will take around 10 ats from bone dry. The tranny pan holds just under five and the rest is in the body and torque converter, but you need to get the engine started in order to get the fluid to be pumped around. Let me know if the engine is even turning. If it is, you may very well have a bad neutral safety switch. If so, I have one.