Uberoo

like?my 87 GL wagon was a non feedback carb car.I just did a Ej wiring stransplant in which I removed the dash.There wasnt anything resembling a computer under there.

I have never whipped a nut,but I have flipped a b*tch.Does that count?

Can you run mine as well?It is really rusty for a PNW car..I want to find out where it lived and the accidents it has been in.VIN is JF2AN53B3HE422375.

NOOO do not get one with a EA81T. Find a body style you like with a good running regular carbie EA81.Then swap the TBI/SPFI set up from the EA82 cars.While you are at it swap in the 5 speed DR from an EA82 aswell for better gearing and shift linkage that isnt sloppy.After that this forum should be able to answer any questions you may have. BTW locked diff refers to the lincoln/miller/esab/whoever that you use to weld up the rear differential.You will need to pull one CV axle out of the back to drive around the street so you dont blow rear axles and wear down your tires.

Im just asking because my saab is a TANK.It took a 10 mph rearending from a fully loaded fullsize work truck(3/4 ton truck+ all of the wrenchs,tools,lead pipes,etc) and it did nothing to my car.I wasnt even sore.The problem is now that I am going to be driving the subie for a while I don't want to get dead... Ok I wont worry about it.When its my time,its my time...

I have a 1987 GL wagon.I have just seen its safety ratings.I might be safer if I was walking across a freeway at night in LA.What can be done to improve its safety in a crash.

that red car that wrapped around the tree.passenger=

yea water works but if you overdo it...

didn't get to go wheeling today. spent all of the damn time changing out a CV axle on s10.Subaru CV's are cake compared to that...And it still is not 4wd,we just installed a stub axle to keep his bearings happy.

never mind I was able to slide a bolt through the back holes and the front I had a wheel locating stud of a saab.It bolted right in.Just had to grind off the locating part so it didn't hang down so far.

What are the bolts that hold the skidplate on.IE what thread are they?Somehow during my EJ swap I lost 2 bolts and the only other bolt I have is really worn down.I need to put the skidplate on for offroading...

Im going up tommarow with a fullsize chevy on 32" MT tires.And an S 10 with 33" mud tires not sure the brand.With them there I can do crazy shnit or pull there sorry arses out...

The wire I tapped into had to be a power wire.I have a large ground that the gauges connect to.I know I have taillights when I turn the marker lights on( with no fuse)

I know this is an old thread but they wanted to compare the top of the line 4x4 to the cheapest 4x4.Meaning one car with the bare essentials and one with all the nice things..Although they only dinged the subaru because it was underpowered and because it was small.

my o2 sensor for the'22 is not even connected because I don't have a Y pipe that I can weld the bung to.It will happen monday.But I suppose I can disconnect the battery and see if it does it anymore.

I installed some temp,oil,and volt gauges in my 1987 GL wagon.For the illumination I spliced into the dimmer switch so they dim.Note I said splice not cut the wire completly.I just stripped a bit of the coating off and soldered the wire for the gauge lights in.Now I have no dash lights.The lights for 4wd and the doors and the little headlights on the front of the car light up but the backlights are non existant.while the aftermaket gauges are nice and bright.So what happened?Would it help if I ran a fused wire from the battery to the dimmer?

Today I bored so I finished a few things I had to do today.For starters I had to pull all of the studs that were in my tires:dead:(X4).Then I had to put away all of the tools that were in the car.Then I was going to wire my fan to my switch but it will be a major pain to run wires through the harness that is now stuffed in there(EJ22).So I just wired it directly to the battery(turn off Equals remove ground...)It was a bit loud with a chopped Y pipe as the only exhaust... I almost go stuck once.I go into this "little" hole.4 feet from the end momentum stops.I floored it in first and 4lo,it moved about 5 inches.Then I tried the same trick in reverse.Nothing.Tried turning the wheels while flooring it in first and 4 lo.Then it hit me.HANDBRAKE.ALA poor mans LSD.So with one foot on the gas,one hand on the wheel and one hand rapidly moving the handbrake I got out.I didn't really try to extreme stuff because my tires are really that beefy(205/60/15 uniroyal snow tires.Think of them as an aggressive all terrain) and my rear diff isnt welded,and the most important issue,I was out alone with no cell phone coverage:dead: along the way there was some damage.I went into a marshy pit of land backwards and the engine died because the fuel pump unplugged itself.After that the CEL is on solid...So I decided to just rally home...Then I take this one downhill gravel corner a bit to fast I try to correct but it was heading right for the bank(better than the other side which was trees).the passenger side of the bumper dug into the dirt thus destroying the right blinker.Then because there was still momentum the car swung around the the other blinker got in on a piece of the action.It just chipped a piece out of the lense.Then the car came to a stop when the left side of the bumper dug into the hill.I thought it was about to roll because the car kinda swayed alot.Then even though no one was there I said "That was fun,lets never do that again" I will try to take pics of the aftermath when I can find a camera. car is a 1987 GL wagon with a EJ22 and DR 5 speed.No swaybars and beefy snow tires are my offroad mods.God I need to weld the rear diff...I never would have gotten remotley close to becoming stuck if the rear was welded and I was sawing at the handbrake.

Today I went for a quick spin out in the woods.Anyway I was on this really narrow trail and I had to turn around.But there wasn't room to turn around so I had to back down a little bit until I could turn into a muddy/watery field.I went into the water backwards(up to the hub on the tires).Anyway The motor stalled because the fuel pump unplugged itself.After I figured that out it fired right up.But know the CEL stays lit all the time.What could the ECU be fuzzing about?Hopefully the problem doesnt involve connecting the black connectors,because I only know where one is(EJ wiring into EA car...)Thanks in advance.engine is 1990 Ej22,same computer.

pump doesnt squeel except when the belt is covered in mud!!! I will watch the axle then.Thanks

I like to go offroading.Sometimes I may have to step outside in the mud.Which is why I wear the boots..

I like to drive my 1987 GL wagon with big heavy work boots.It is very difficult to drive it because it seems like all of the pedals are about an inch or so to close together.Would it be possible to cut the existing pedals,then put a spacer between the the two sections of pedal linkage to physically space them out that extra little bit?Only the clutch and brake would be altertered,gas pedal would stay in the same place.Is that even possible or would it weaken the metal to much?

On my 1990 Ej swaped rig I have the O2 sensor disconected(no exhaust Y for it to mount in) The car runs fine,idles about 750 rpm and its not throwing codes(at least the CEL isn't lighting up except on start up(although it is possible I dont have the CEL for the harness wired to the right wire in the clutster).But would no O2 sensor cause it to run poorly,idle rough,etc?On my 1990 Saab 900(its not OB1,I think) when its O2 sensor died the car could barley run the idle would swing 300 RPM up or down and it had no power.so Is it supposed to be like that?

My ej swap cost somewhere around $600-1000.I just got stuff from pull and save.150 For EJ22+ECU,20 for wiring harness+200 to have it stripped down.20 bucks for the adapter plate(I made it myself).50 for a pusher style fan on the front of the radiator.60 fixing the filler neck on the radiator cause mine broke.Outlet hose on radiator broke the spout so I picked up a EA81 radiator for 50.I also got new temp,oil,and volt gauges for 40 bucks.Then various stuff relating to the fact that mine was a carb car-25 for new FI fuel supply lines,100 for new ford pump.From my list,assuming I didn't spend money screwing with the stock radiator is 655+100 +/- for little things like soldering pen,solder,various fittings,fluids. thats for converting a carb,533 for FI+100+/-

now that I think about it that "dent" adds character

On my 1987 GL wagon when I turn the wheels all the way to lock in reverse(so front of car will go left) I hear a horrible grinding sound from the right front wheel area.Even worse is when it happens it is almost enough to stall my Ej22 if I dont apply gas.The car did it a little bit on the other side but it was right after a wheeling trip with a torn boot:dead: Replaced that axle and the noise on that side of the car went away(didn't replace hub or bearings).So the main problem on the right of the car.The boot isn't torn and the axle seems to work properly...It only does it in reverse,Full lock in 1st does nothing. so could this be wheelbearings, hubs,and axles, Oh My!