Uberoo

While you can rev up the EA engines that high there is no power to found up there.The heads stop flowing around 4-4.5k.Doesn't change the fact that I loved to rev my old EA81s with weber carbs up to 8 grand.No power up there but it was fun to scare people on the sidewalk. 8 grand on an EA81 had people diving off the sidewalk for cover.LOL.

Assuming your charging system works its alot better to just let subarus stall out,because once you get in the habit of slipping the clutch to help it over things you can destroy a clutch in a weekend or even a day depending on the run. I once went to a offroad event that was 3 days of mud,rocks,trees and any thing else you can think of.As a typical noob I slipped the clutch up a 1/2 mile rock garden the first night,got out of the woods and my car REEKED of clutch.The next morning the clutch let go in a mud hole.Nothing sucks more than watching everyone else go wheeling because your rig is down because you didn't want to stall it. and as far as what I said sounding like an insurance commercial tell me one insurance company they recommends MOAR throttle?When in doubt HAMMER out!

No offense but if you wont beat on your spoob 1000 miles from home (after you towed it there) then where will you beat on it?If you don't beat on it you will never know what its limit is.While a subaru may not have super low gearing or creepy crawly suspension they still go well offroad.There strength comes from the fact they are very nimble,are very lightweight, and have an ULTRA LOW center of gravity.I have passed jeeps and toyotas in places that "normal rigs" would roll.If you play to the subarus strength they do very well, the weight, and low center of gravity with the subaru's car based nimbleness makes it possible to take lines that all oif the conventional rigs simply can't take. 3 subarus some more modified than others tackled the Rubicon.All of the "other" rigs comment how they all took different lines than normal, and how each line each driver chose was different than the other rigs in the group.One of those rigs was your garden variety lifted subaru-4" lift,27" tires, and a welded rear diff. So instead of thinking of the subaru as something that can only run on sand or forest roads, think it as a lightweight nimble critter that clings to rocks well after most other rigs would roll.Not to mention its turning radius puts most other 4x4s to shame save for the Sammis.

LED headlights haven't come along far enough to replace conventional bulbs, but all of the other exterior lights can be replaced with LED lights.I plan on doing the same thing to my 78 brat.I look at it the same way you do.If the original tail,brake,turn signals use 60 watts then I can add another 60W light before I have to think about upgrading the alt.Or I can keep the same number of lights and have the alternator actually charge the battery. make sure to change the dash lights/dome light to LED too. Or if your wealthy and made of money you could always replace your 55-100 watt offroad lights with LED offroad lights at 200-500 each.If your like me than one LED light is 20X more expensive then all of your other lights combined...regular bulb offroad lights are easy to find for very cheap or free.

Once I get the pivot points moved toward the center I'll see what I can do about the steering. Oddly enough subaru compromised heavily on wheel travel to minimize bumpsteer during the limited amount of travel it has.

Late 80's-early 90's front springs for honda accord fit on the rear.\ 89-94 ford tempo front springs for a 4 cylinder fit on the front subaru struts. Both springs give about 1-1.5" of lift.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2002+subaru+outback+foglight+covers

I know but mixed gas is so much more expensive.

I was on Pirate4x4 and I cam across a long travel H3 build. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/hummer/915987-h3-long-travel-build.html. After reading that I was inspired to start experimenting with the subaru IFS to see where it binds up the worst and what is killing travel.First off the radius rod bushing kills alot of travel right of the bat.It pivots on a different axis as the control arm, so it flex it gets comes from the bushing squishing-bad bad bad.. Another thing that kills suspension travel are the locations for the control arm pivots.The control arm pivots are not in line with the inner DOJ. So as the suspension cycles the axle needs to change length, so a certain amount of plunging is needed-the DOJ.Problem is towards the extremes of up or down travel the DOJ bottoms out and loads the CV joint in compression.On an EA81,any suspension lift causes the CV to be run in compression drastically shortening its life and putting extra stress on the DOJ.This is why suspension lifts on EA81 vehicles tend to eat axles,EA82 vehicles have a wider suspension so at that height there is less angle, so less compressive forces.After all of that the strut becomes the limiting factor.However,making the control arm pivot points in line with the DOJ and the radius rod pivots in line with the control arm would probally yield 5" of suspension travel without destroying even EA81 axles.Finally like most people I originally thought the CV axle limited the travel so I put a rear diff on a stack of tires and attached a front EA81 axle to it and measured its total upward/downward deflection with the CV joint kept parallel to the ground.A stock EA81 axle is capable of 14.5" of travel and it would still be able to turn even at those extremes.In the hummer build they used a GM axle that only has 10" of travel.By moving the control arm pivots inward and making sure the suspension pivoted on the same axis they got 12" of travel vs the stock 4". On my build I plan to take care of or at least address the radius rod pivot and the control arms not pivoting inline with the DOJ.

I am using a Lincoln 140C 110V mig welder with 100% CO2.For the most part I set the welder at the settings for "X" metal thickness and adjust them up or down depending on how the weld is doing.

I would post mine but it doesn't quite resemble a car at this stage.

What do you do that requires some protection for those lights?Do you want protection from random rock chips on the road or are you offroading and stuffing the bumper into the ground at every hill? If its rock chips there are some guards/covers that can be installed, if its offroading your best bet is to move the lights out of the way because there isn't a cover that attaches to lights and will prevent them from being crushed. EDIT: a quick search on google for subaru outback foglight guard found quite a few items.

My dodge did that.

other that it is slightly hard to search for 4.11 or any other 3 character term.

It is possible to change the ratio in a 5 speed dr box to 4.11 but it is alot of work and mismatching parts.My comparison changing the rear diff ratio is 10 bolts that are fairly easily accessed.

I think I figured it out.The strut isnt centered on that top hat rather its offset.The 4wd side gives the most offset to give the most caster,The more positive caster,the more the car wants to go straight,so if you hit a rock or berm offroad more caster will help keep the car straight, but at the expense of increased steering effort.A FWD car presumably wont be taken offroad so their isn't a need for as much caster to keep the car straight after finding rocks because presumably there arn't as many large rocks on the road.With less caster means its easier to park because it takes less steering effort. I Think anyway...probably wrong though

yes it will fit. Does your subaru look like the one you posted or is yours more rounded?If it looks like yours then its a straight bolt in deal.If its more rounded then you have to take a die grinder or a file to the bottom of your bellhousing because that transmission uses a flywheel that is slightly larger than yours(filing take about 5 minutes with a file or a couple of seconds with a grinder,its not bad at all. For both body styles(round or square) you will need the axles from that car as well as the rear diff. Automatic/ subarus have a 25 spline front axle spline count while manual cars have a 23 spline axle.Also turbo/automatic cars got a 3.7 rear diff ratio while the non turbo manual cars got a 3.9 rear ratio.Hope that helps.

So what is the difference between 4wd and sedan markings on the top hat for the strut?Most of the time I shove the strut in place without noticing or caring if both struts have 4wd pointing toward the front or the back or a mix of the two.

So they get notched around the front most crossmember bolts?I might not have to clearance the 6" lift blocks on the crossmember then.It will be damned close,but maybe...Thanks.

2" is about what I can move the mounts straight in,more if I move them down and in.Damn.

Does anyone have any current pics of a EJ22 in a gen 1 wagon or brat?I have tried searching but all of the pics no longer work due to old/missing links.Specially the ones showing the frame rail mods.I'm kinda curious to see if I will have to modify the lift blocks.So if anyone has any current pics of an Ej22 in a gen 1 wagon or brat and could post them up that would be great.Thanks in advance.

So I have the passenger side strut tower cut out but I have a slight dilemma: I bought a EA81 front clip for $50 to use its suspension, while most the suspension is complete It was missing a few parts for the passenger side.With the parts I have I could possibly rig something up.I am wondering if just to mock up where the passenger strut goes if I could just put a passsenger side control arm on the complete driver side suspension and use that to mock up the suspension.Would there be any differences other than the spindle/brakes would be flipped?At this point it doesn't matter where the tie rods/brakes are on the spindle as long as the wheel is mounted up correctly and the whole strut assembly is cambered/castered correctly. While I could take apart the complete driver side strut and use some parts to get it more or less correct that is alot of work including pulling the strut apart to take its spring out.I am wondering if I could just use the passenger control arm to position where the strut should go using the control arm mounts on the crossmember.Again not driving but just mocking up the suspension so I can fabricate the passenger side strut tower.

This may be a stupid question but how exactly do you bend a strut?A strut should only see up and down forces right?I could understand it if you bend a radius rod and it takes the strut with it but how do you bend a strut just by itself?

IIRC EA82 doj are about 1/4" longer than EA81 stuff,EJ stuff is about 1/2" longer.So EA82 DOJ's on EA81 shaft would be 6.75 mm longer and EJ stuff would be 12.7 mm longer.If you are pulling out the DOJ with 14 mm extension then the EJ stuff might be your best bet.I think you have to use front axle DOJ on the front axle because rear DOJs are smaller in diameter than the front stuff.I think I had a front axle DOJ go bad on me so I tried to use a rear doj to fix it and it wouldn't work. EDIT: according to my digital caliper a EA81 front DOJ cup is 76 mm while a legacy rear doj cup is 74.55 mm.So the front is just slightly bigger.I believe the shaft splines are different too between front and rear.

I heard that the EA82 manual steering rack has the most force amplification of all of the all other steering racks of the era, IE 4 turns to lock vs 3.7 TTL. I was wondering if it is the same physical size as an EA81 steering rack?I'm going to move the control arm mounts inward and extend the arms to remove as much of the plunging from the front axles because toward the ends of travel the DOJ binds up and puts pressure on the outer CV.Then because the EA81 axles are shorter than the EA82 axles there is more strain due to the steeper angle which is why EA81 axles dont like suspension lifts.However,cycling the EA81 axle on a bench they have enough movement for 14.5" of suspension travel. So that brings me back to the physical size of the steering rack,I can move the mounts inward a couple inches before they interfere with the EA81 steering rack while keeping the same ground clearance or I could move them inward and down negating the clearance issues with the steering rack but loosing ground clearance. So is the EA82 manual steering rack the same physical size as a EA81 manual rack?