Uberoo

This is gonna be my Build Thread for my 78 brat project(and a half),Could I get a mod to change the thread title to "Uberoo's Build Thread" or something?Thanks. I have a 78 brat that I am going to put EA81 suspension under it as well as stuff a EJ22 in the engine bay.When all said and done I want it to sit level or with a 1/4"-1/2" rake in the rear.I also want 1" suspension lift in the front. I was thinking 3" in the back ,and 4" strut blocks,with 3" crossmember blocks, But the EJ22 will drop the front an inch.So should I go with 5" strut blocks,4.5" strut blocks,etc.How much lift should I build into the strut blocks to give 1" suspension lift with a a EJ22 and DR 5 speed up front,while still being pretty close to level with the rear?

Sweet thanks! Now to support the rear at 29" and pull the suspension and work on mocking up where the Ea81 rear suspension should go.

Ea81 rear suspension has been retrofited before.it requires lift blocks that adapt Ea81 and Ea82 mounting locations.

I have never understood the need for a rear diff skidplate.Its SOLID Cast iron/steel.Its a jacking point. You would damage the mounts LONG before you did anything other than cosmetic damage.The transmission is a moot point because it sits higher than the crossmembers, So the crossmembers would take the hit and lift the car up and over the rock,unless somehow you managed to have the car land with the transmission on a rock.Even then it would take a signicant bounce to mess up the transmission.Unless its an automatic it doesn't have a exposed pan.

So I found a 84 subaru front clip that I can buy for $50 to get the front suspension bits.The thing is I have to pull the engine and transmission first before I can have it. I have pulled engines from EA81 vehicles and I have pulled transmission from EA81 vehicles, but never both at the same time.My question is what is the least labor intensive way to get both engine and transmission separated from front clip+suspension?The front clip is supported off the ground about 1.5-2ft.

The hatchback in my sig started life as a DL EA71,but the body style is still EA81.

The computer has a wire that is 12V hot when the car is starting to tell the computer to enrich the fuel to make starting easier.Is it possible that that wire somehow got corroded or cut?

beat ya!

ALL subarus from 80-84 are EA81,However,BRATS and HATCHBACKS are EA81 until 89 when they stopped being made. Sedans and wagons from 85 -94 are EA82. EA81 is "round" EA82 is "square" Also whenever you get parts for it say it is an "83" just to avoid confusion.

were you ever able to measure that?

So in preparation for this I have been reseaching radiators. I found out that a 74-86 SB chevy pickup radiator would work pretty good because its all metal, and has 1.5" inlets,and more importantly it can be found in evey junkyard in america.I am wondering if it might overcool the engine because once the tstat opened the water from the radiator would be 20* cooler and close the tstat again.I know in general a too big radiator shouldn't overcool an engine but what about when the radiator is for an engine with 3x the displacement and 3x the horsepower?

EDIT: google says there is a U pull in boise.See if they have any 80-84 subarus and made a day of it.

is there a pull and save or a pick n pull in boise?Any self service yards nearby?

I would bet they wouldn't work because they are for the front of a vw beetle, and beetles are very light in the front.Even if they would work they would only have about 4" of travel.However you could swap in EA81 front suspension and get more travel and a more rubust suspension.From my understanding the suspension bolts in place with one minor correction for the crossmember

coilovers would be alot easier to adapt rather than air bags, that and you wouldn't have to worry about a air line getting nicked and stranding you somewhere.

if you can find some air bag struts to adapt the the front end go for it,but I don't know how much flex the cv's can take because after the struts they are the limiting factor. Also do you have any more pics of your brat?I'm building up my gen 1 project to look like something out of an apcolapse and I need all the inspiration I can get.

if the rust on the crossmember is just surface rust it wont affect structural integrity for atleast a couple of years over there...

typically thats true depending on circumstances it might be otherwise, if your mudding and slide sideways in a rut with most of the weight sideways against a rim the steel will bend while the aluminum wheel wont be damaged at all,if you run over a curb at speed the aluminum MIGHT crack,and the steel will bend.

So I pulled my gen 1 brat project into the garage to work on swapping in EA81 suspension front and rear as well as lifting it,However, due to the nature of project vehicles the bed is full of parts and their is no engine so it sits kinda funky. So I am looking for the rear unloaded ride height of a gen 1 brat. Preferably one thats stock with a rollbar.A good measurement might be from the divit in the axle to the top of the wheel arch,or from the jacking point to the ground on a level surface,etc. thanks in advance.

I'm fine with it if 250,000 is the cheapest it can be made and still function as intended but like all military projects there is a certain amount of fat that could be trimmed for instance,the uh-60 helicopter has a $17,000 oil pan because its made by a well connected contractor...

So its driven like a train or large dumptruck.A diesel engine to charge the batteries and motors in the wheels for drive.I'm not to happy about its $250,000 each cost compared to a armored humvee at $140,000.

" the only knowledge consists in knowing that we know nothing"

yes, provided that the road is slick enough to allow different speeds between front and rear. its 4wd,not awd.

how many race cars do you see running wheel adapters? Wheel spacers and adapters can be safe but really only for street applications with nice gentle driving.If they were strong how come the manufacturs don't make hubs out of aluminum?