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Ma-fia

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Everything posted by Ma-fia

  1. I like your collection, and the money part, too!
  2. Yes, very interesting. Caleb, don't forget to report results!
  3. mmm -- parts? Say, you don't have a 10- or 20-dollar front windshield for my GLF? (mind it, it's different from any other model)
  4. Welcome to the board. I agree, it's great. Do you have any pictures? See you around.
  5. This is another useful if true "hear say" fact: "Silicon ADV's are all an orange or off-white color, so they are pretty easy to spot ...There is generally no carbon black used as a filler in silicon, hence the color." (comes from Bobbyoilguy page).
  6. GD, I feel like you might know the answer: I have found 2 excellent locks for the doors with original key, but the ignition lock is original to the car and I have to wiggle the key in it (both original brass one and copies) to start the car. Once I even took out the ign. key and didn't notice that the car was still running. I have my old door locks somewhere, so if I take one of them to a shop or get the number off it, could they make a GOOD key for me, or the locks are just worn out? As I remember, the key wasn't very happy to go into door locks either (that's why I found better ones with a key).
  7. Skip, the article was written in 1999(?), if I'm not mistaken. Things could have changed. And, as I said, at the times I wouldn't know the difference by looking at the filters; boxes didn't mention it, that's for sure. Here's a link related to testing ADV's. I thought, it's a real neat idea. I'm going to test mine as I go now on! It's a bit lengthy, but I enjoyed reading it. Does it makes sense? http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001032
  8. I know I took off my air filter to see what was going on with the metal flap that's supposed to close for cold idle when you tap gas. If I remember correctly on the old (and now dead) carb it was sticking and wouldn't close... I think I'm right, but I have a tendency to forget. I only partially understand how it all works, so my knowledge easily leaves me .
  9. Aha, cool. Actually, I have someone I can pester with really stupid questions here and there. The thing is that most of the time he's heard of everything, but the knowledge stays in "passive" meaning if I ask "shouldn't ... be done?" he would say oh yeah, and throw in another good idea, but to the question "what to do" sometimes I get unsatisfactory (for me) answers.
  10. This is what I was told some years ago: before you start, tap gas once or twice, it closes the choke. I don't even know if it's completely true, but it works for me. If I tap gas once, then start and don't mess with gas after the car started, it beautifully goes to high idle and then through its warming-up rootine. If I mess with gas, it goes to the regular idle and tries to die, so I have to keep gassing it up to keep it alive. Does it make any sense to the pro's?
  11. This is what I found out: purolator has 3 lines of filters, and I sniffed them all over looking for any indication of an ADV, and could find it only on Pure One (the top line; please correct me if I'm wrong). I have to add this: until recently I knew that there was an ADV in the filter only if the box stated so. I don't know about other stores, but at Pep Boys I never found a Pure One to fit my Sub. At the times I worked for Pep Boys and it was pretty hard on my poor bone structures, therefore I didn't really feel like shopping around too much. Thank God I no longer work there! All in all I learned quite a bit, but after a while it got old.
  12. Wow, do you care to share with the public (in a separate thread perhaps)?
  13. Forgive me my lack of knowledge, but that flush you're talking about -- do you have to take the vehicle to a shop to do that?
  14. Thanks for ideas, guys. I'm putting the radiator ref. and flush suggestions in my "archive" for future use!
  15. Skip, I was asking around for this page a while ago, because I saw it mentioned a few times, but nobody answered that particular question than; thanks for posting it. XSNRG, what did you cut them with?
  16. Thanks for the idea, Torxxx. I think I will, when I have time. However I still want to see for myself as well -- I have a tendency not to trust "interested" parties 100%. Obviously Napa sells filters, so they want to prove that what THEY sell is better than everything else. (Just look at those small plastic gear set-ups with Lucas -- you'd think that s..tuff will solve all your problems! -- getting carried away again -- Sorry OZSubie)
  17. I've never heard of Ryco filters... Well, that's not surprising after all. "Searching on the internet it seems Fram and Valvoline are quite often mentioned together, so I'm guessing the Valvoline may be a re-badged Fram" Hmm, if that's true, I'd stay away from both! I've heard from some people that additives in valvoline oil can cause more rust in the engine. It's just a hear-say, I don't have any personal experience with V., as I never used it. I was rather disappointed to find out that Fram wasn't as good as I used to think it was. I still have a used one and one day I'm going to cut it open along with a purolator and see for myself what's inside!
  18. Actually, I was more wondering about the engine; radiator is relatively "cheap". I also have radiator from the parts car; don't know if it's in any better shape though.
  19. Samo, why do you say your Sub is too old for synthetic oil? Any reason in particular?
  20. I wish I could help you directly, but I haven't even heard of Valvoline oil filters! What do you normally use? I've been researching filters lately and came to the conclusion that now on I will buy only Wix: they all seem to have an anti-drainback valve, which is a very good thing to have. Apparently Motorcraft does, too, but Wix is more reputable from what I hear. Fram is garbage according to many. Purolator is decent, but they offer 3 different lines, only the top one has anti-drainback valve, and nobody has it for any of my cars... I know this is not exactly what you were asking for, but I just HAD to share my findings.
  21. If you have the VIN, this might help: http://www.carcarecouncil.org/stats.shtml It "deciphers" the VIN and tells you everything about the car. Engine info is one of the items. (Credits: thanks to Skip and his coolant thread).
  22. If you noticed my '82 -- yes, I found that out; but it doesn't matter I have a factory maual for the Sub. I was mostly referring to other links. Just the other day I was wondering if I could find parts manual for my Ford -- and the answer to my question was right there in the Ford link! Not exactly your true parts manual, but after having wasted some time the result can be obtained.
  23. Nice pics. I like the way you arranged the page.
  24. Yup. I even copied it into my file for various useful car information. Skip, I think you should start a separate thread called "useful reading" or smth. similar, and post all the wonderful stuff you find -- that would be the easiest way to keep up with you. Like "joke of the day", but both fun and useful. (sorry to deviate the discussion again, folks.) Back to the cooling issue, my cooling system has been neglected for a long time (not by me), and there's a ton of rust there. What's the best way to get rid of it? How high is the risk to make a swiss chease out of it?
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