Ma-fia

Very nice pics. I noticed you're in Spring, TX. How far are you from Dallas?

This is a GOLDEN MINE! Or "gold mine"? Who cares. Thanks for posting all those links!

I think it is a very good habit. Just don't forget to share your findings with us general public! By the way, one of the sites you posted has another very valuable fiture: Vin Identificator http://www.carcarecouncil.org/stats.shtml For quite a while I was wondering what the heck my parts car was -- one dealership told me one thing, another -- another thing, tax office the same as 1st dealer, so ... Now I have a definite answer. Suppose this link would be worth posting in a separate thread?..

I had the same exact problem: carb was flooding. Unlike you I've rebuilt mine twice. Then I had to suck it up and buy a rebuilt one... So, if your carb is a Hitachi and you've got the finances, do not waste your time. Either buy a rebuilt one or a Weber. This is kinda sad, but mostly true. Here on this board there're people who have successfullly rebuilt a carburetor, but they're few and most folks would suggest a Weber as a permanent fix to the problem. My personal opinion, is that a really good mechanic could probably do a good rebuild, but most people can't. A sad truth. Here're some threads you can look through: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9973&highlight=carb%2A http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9892&highlight=carb%2A http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9042&highlight=carb%2A Of course there's more out there, if you want to read some more, all you have to do is go to search (upper right button on every screen) and put in "carb*" as a keyword.

Well, maybe Hondasucks is right? Just kiddin'. It can happen anywhere and any time: the same idler that changed your oil at Jiffy Lube may miraculously appear working for a dealership or any other place later on. Being a grimly suspicious individual, I try to do everything I can myself. Jiffy Lubes are for company vehicles that you happen to drive and don't care too much about.

Good luck!

No, I didn't get around to post any pictures yet. The blurry "something" next to my username is the only one out there for now. I'll set up a website some time, hopefully soon. Then I'll invite everybody to admire! Or, I guess, I could just attach a couple of pics to a post... Thanks for your interest.

wow, that's awsome! Congratulations.

Skip, would your list also apply to 81-to-82 transplant (of the same model, GLF)?

The best I know of is 34mpg in summer. Mostly highway driving. AC does not work, no power steering, those belts aren't even there. It was funny, too: I had my GLF for a few months then and was just getting into things. I also was very tired and didn't pay attention to how full (or rather empty) my tank was. So I almost parked in front of the house, and the car dies. I try to crank it back up, doesn't work -- what the ...? Turned out I just ran out of gas. The trip-meter read 520+ miles. So, IF the gas tank is 15 gallons (I'm pretty sure it is), then 34+ mpg is fairly accurate. And all that with the steering wheel bouncing and kicking at anything above 50 mph and unbalanced very old wheels. I am still wondering how I managed to cover almost 1.000 miles in 2 days and not break down!

First of all -- welcome aboard! GD, why .com? Are CVs for his car a specialty? I thought nothing can beat rebuilt CVs from any parts store with life-time warranty (O'Reiley's in my case -- same $55).

Yes, very very nice, indeed.

I can't even express how my shaky little hands are itching to do that to one personage!... I don't even know what's stopping me. Water in the engine! Things like this make me mad.

In my Sub (listed below) the heater fix turned out to be super-easy: a bit of WD-40: the knob on the dash that is supposed to adjust the temperature of the incoming air wouldn't turn. After tearing up into the dash I found out that the flap that is supposed to open and close simply rusted onto the fixtures in the "closed" position!

Yeah, I was just going to offer the same thing... By the way -- I have no clue how I managed to post that thread in the New Generation forum! The main impression I carried out of the discussion is that everyone has to make up their own mind, "invent" an opinion to the best of their liking and knowledge and call it good. And of course, religiously change the oil (duh)...

I'm no competition here with my lousy 140+, but I have a very profound thought: Wouldn't it be nice if everybody on the board listed their cars (well, most people do that) and the mileage in the sig?

I am impressed, good job. Don't forget to post the pictures of the final product! I was wondering if you'd care to pm or e-mail back and forth -- I have a couple questions on bodywork.

I'm with the folks who use them, definitely! Besides the wheel bearings, there's one more issue I know of: brake rotors. Well, Subarus, being Japanese and therefore quality stuff, can probably take a lot of abuse, but still: regular overtorquing and especially not even torque on the lug nuts may cause the rotor to warp. I have never seen anybody in tire shops running around cars with torque wrenches, so I just give them wheels -- without the car. If they screw up balancing, no big deal.

That's some account you posted! Where do you work? Must be nice to rebuild your own engine "by the way"...

Wow, more ideas! I will definitely save all this info in a dedicated file (I've been doing it with some info I considered valuable). Who knows, maybe in a year I'll have a nice fancy archive on what "to" and what "not to". As to the tools, beleive it or not, but we have both in the household -- an excellent cordless and compressor+impact. I have actually bought the impact for one of my first solo jobs -- sway bar replacement. Someone I trusted told me that mine wasn't any good, so I went through all the trouble of dragging the old one out and putting the one from my parts car in, mind it all that WITHOUT taking off any of the exhaust parts. Anyway, some related bolts were way too tuff for me. At that point I borrowed a compressor and bought an impact... And quite recently we've found a great deal on a compressor. As to the sway bar -- until this day I do not know if it was worth it! Indeed, to replace a used sway bar with another one just as used? I didn't and don't notice any difference. Oh well, let's call it a learning experience. QMan - what about spraying some RustFix on that bolt?

I got a broken intake manifold bolt... and a digital camera to TAKE PICTURES OF MY SUBARU, woohooo! Merry Christmas, folks!

Forgot one more thing: How does RustFix mix with penetrating oil?...

Actually, I e-mailed him, trying to find out which manual/year the info on EA-81 came from, and the guy didn't know much about what he had. My guess is that he didn't scan them himself... I wonder where he got them and what else is out there?! Too bad they don't have complete manuals for later years, as they have for 1989 -- that one is scanned PERFECTLY and is 100% complete, not just the engine section. Not that I need any of it, but I downloaded it all -- you never know.

I agree with GD -- Hitachi carbs may be trouble. You may get lucky and it will work, and you may not. The mechanic I know says that the result doesn't have anything to do with the level of mechanical abilities of the rebuilder in Hitachi case -- when they go bad, they just go bad. I wasn't lucky at all: rebuilt my carb twice, had 3 carburetors to choose the best looking parts from, wasted TONS of cleaner, and it still wouldn't work (flooded no matter what). Rebuild kit is freely available though...

I had the same dilemma with CVs with all the other stuff attached to them that came off my parts car. I don't remember exact detailes of how I did it (it was about 2 years ago), but the idea is to form an upside-down "V" with ratchett-socket/wrench attached to the castle nut and anything else (like pry-bar, large wrench or whatever works) that you or someone else could hold in place as the other part of the "V". It took me a while to find the way (I did it alone), but after both things were in place one good wack with a hammer resolved the problem. The trick is to figure out how to attach the lever, so that it would hold the construct in place for you to use the hammer. I am not as lucky as you, GD, so I have to be inventive...