Tosh

are you still doing big lifts too? I'm considering doing a t-case swap and am looking at an 8-10" lift.

How "well" do you think I'd be able to take on those trails with an AT tire? I've really been trying not to go all out and get a mud tire. I've been looking at the General Grabber AT 2 or similar and hopefully pick up a welded rear diff.

ugh, thanks for reminding me I need to get new transmission mounts, subframe triangle bracket things, possibly lower my driveline (I think thats what causing the ungodly clanking noise), clean up my exhaust, replace a cv boot, and get new tires. I better get started

I had planned on it, I guess I need to start saving for some new tires.

Yeah that VG30 is almost unstoppable. I'd really rather prefer the 4cyl. I have had a ton of experience with nissans KA engine. I can learn the 22re I was more wondering if there is any drivetrain/body issues that would put one over the other.

I'm looking at picking up a 4x4 one. But I'm trying to decide between a nissan or a toyota.

I had a 2wd v6 in high school that I literately beat the crap out of. 8 years later is still running, burns some oil and some of the electronics need attention but it gets a load of stuff to the dump. It just rolled over 330k. what kind of "issues" would I run into if I decided I wanted to go offroad with one? The only stuff i could find online was on the yotatech forums and I think they might be a little bias. They said something about the frames not being as strong in the nissans.

Hey Zap, or any of the other hardcore 4x4 guys. What are your thoughts on the early 90's late 80's Nissan pickups? I had one all though highschool and fix just about every part on mine (2wd). I've been thinking about getting a pickup and after getting majorly burned by a toyota dealership I use to work at I've vowed to never own one again. Sorry if thats too much off topic.

Ohhhhh! I likey, Maybe I can sell my 01 single port headers to help fund my "new exhaust"

there is a salvage title on that bad boy. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2870474869.html

Ugh I hate you russ I want a 3.0 outback sedan sooooo bad. Even more when a M/T swap.

My vote is for drilling out the hubs. Its so much easier to find 6 lug wheels. in my opinion its the way to go.

I don't know if happend from plowing so much snow or what but apparently I have a exhaust leak now. :-\

I got all the codes worked out besides the fuel ones. And the car runs fine while throwing them so I'm not really gonna "worry" about it.

See my topic man, your gonna throw all sorts of fuel codes, Fuel Temp, Fuel level. ahh I just noticed that you already posted there

For those of you wanting some pics of mikes stuff 6 - lug (I painted them myself) Radius rods, Mine are pink cause I'm cool like that I don't know the whole story behind all of the ruckus with speedwagon but I've never had a problem with any of the stuff I've gotten from mike. Well a problem I couldn't correct myself. Sure I've had to do some work to "make things work" but if you want guaranteed bolt up 100% spend the extra money buy it from scott. Hes done the research and legwork. But if you want to pay half the price and don't mind having to cut something here or grind something there Mikes stuff is a great way to save some money. Not to mention the part you have so much greif with is something that the "other guys" wont even "risk" making for legal reasons. I had some "issues" with my linkage shoot me a PM and maybe I can help ya get it worked out. I can't wait to get that new rear end from you Mike, I got an interview for that second job next week, I swear I'm putting your kid through college.

is it the bright break lights that are stuck on 24/7 or is it just the "its night time and you have your headlights on so the tailights get lit up" lights that are on? also are any of your other lights on with the tail lights? corner markers, is the dash lit up etc? or will these lights turn on like they normally should? I'd also try checking the stereo area if you have that pulled apart, I know some stereos get a + from the *illumination* circit (IE all your lights that light up when you've got the headlights on) so that the head unit dimms when its dark in the car. as for the VSS stuff you can tap into that behind your dash if you don't want to/cant hook it up to your old ECU's home.

97 and up phase 2 EJ22's have 3 plugs. Thats the diagram from my 01 EJ22.

Are all the yellow and red ones getting power?

are you getting power to your "Ignition switch" B135 pin on your ecu? and or are you getting power to and out of your main relay when your key is in the "on" position? that kept my OBDII ej swap from starting up due to the fuel pump not getting power when I first got it going.

I know, I'm just finishing up my EJ swap and I miss nissan wiring SO so much.

I've built one for a KA24DE and I've also stripped 2 EJ harnesses for swapping I'd rather build a MS kit then do another EJ harness. I know most of the kits run off of some kind of hall or ford EDIS setup for the spark, I don't know the particulars of getting it to run on EJ's with no dizzy.

http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/index.html they make PnP kits for all the subaru ECU's now. You still have to assemble or pay someone to assemble the kit. But then it plugs right into your existing harness. As far as assembling the kit goes just take your time make sure you have a nice clear area to work on it and follow the directions, its all pretty step by step. By far easier to build a megasquirt kit then it is to do an EA2EJ harness.

if your steering extension is too long, just cut the steering bracket.

yeah 4 inch is a LOT bigger then what I thought it would be. I saw a lot of pics of the 2 inch lifts and I wanted something bigger then that. I'm 6'5 and my front and rear bumpers are almost at my hips. I can roll under the rear end and the engine on a creeper without jacking it up. Its plenty big. The only reason to go bigger is if you wanted to run a T-case like Numbchux was saying or if you wanted to run some 31"+ tires (in my opinion).