Danbob99

A moon roof isn't see through a sunroof has glas, that slides... The sunroofs are a very common leak. It leaks where the rails for the sliding glass piece ataches to the frame... you can see it with some soapy water and some compressed air, carefull not to blow whats left of the seal through though Good luck! Dan

There are only a few things that will cuase the reverse gear to grind... I may be wrong, but if a remember corectly those transmissions do not have a synchronized reverse gear... so that eliminates the possibility of a synchro ring slipping on the shaft... the only thing that really leaves is you are missing teeth off of your reverse gear, or you are running metal through the gear, in reverse only, which is very unlikely. Now, what i would be more likely to beleive is that you are loosing a main shaft bearing. Really, something like that is hard to say without hearing it...

As i posted on nasioc... "IN"

Ever hear the term "black housing"? its common in the great land of jdm... i havn't done it on my car but i have done it with a friend on his honda, it turned out looking pretty good. It is where you seperate the glass off the lense, and carefully mask a select few parts of the chrome reflectors inside of the lense and paint them black. Not all of them, you don't want to eliminate all of the reflective properties of the inside of the lense, otherwise you loose all lighting to the the sides, up and down, all you would get would be straight ahead. If done right this ends up looking very nice and clean... thinking about experimenting with old lights that i have and if it looks good doing it on my good lights...

I love you Noah.

Under the fold up part of the rear seat(that you sit on) i believe.

I like the ea series cars, they are light, and with enough modifications, time, and some money, they can be as good as any. But bypass all the time effort and money and buy a legacy, or impreza. You will do just as well. If you really do fall into a position that it is cheaper and easier to put an ej motor into your car, why not, best of both worlds.

My 89 has OBDI they started switching over some where in that time era i believe, so your 92 would be an OBDI. The orange/yellow connector on your drivers side strut tower is the connector for it. OBDII was federally mandated in 1996, not many cars had it before then, and those that did had very different versions of it.

I've done a little bit of reading on this, check these articles out. I'm runing a small amount through my car right now, let me know what you think... i'll tell you in a few days how it runs through my car... http://pesn.com/2005/03/17/6900069_Acetone/ http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Acetone_as_a_Fuel_Additive http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Acetone:Data:sentzmastersmith Little bit of gas milage or power couldn't hurt right i know there are emissions issues around this, i don't recomend going any where near this stuff if you are up for an emissions test...

One problem jay... all those cars are missing the turbo's that they were born to run with

Gee Tex, i'm sure glad to have you as a roomate too I wonder if we could bend, then heat, and mold rubber hose to run to the intake from the bov... make it look all professional... i'm sure all it would take is a home depot run to find the hose, but i've seen other cars that recirc their bov like that and i don't like the look of a huge hose running all the way accross the motor, i would like to see one molded nicely, or at least hidden better... i'll be around later tonight likely...

i continualy seem to blow up transmissions in my car i am on my 4th... i drive them hard, one went because i ran it in rwd drive though...

I read a while back on here about one guy in the land of oz (i think) that was at near 300hp on an ea82... chrom piston rings, head work, bigger valves etc... in the states... mabey tex its faster than mine, i hate to say

Hehe.. me too, me too http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/2222DSCF0014-2.JPG

In specific, the clutch pedal should have no more than half inch of movement before it starts to dis-engage the clutch, loosen the nuts on the clutch cable, and itghten or loosen them untill the fork barely moves, not tight, not loose. The farther out you have to adjust it on the threads the more worn your clutch is. Looser brings the engagment closer to the floor, tighter brings it higher. clutch cable can stretch and break, watch for it. The hill holder should be adjusted so that it stretches the spring on the mechacism (on the driverside well) so that there is about half a spring coils width between each coil. Check and adjust as needed... hope this helps, its been a while since i've done one on an older car, not that they have changed much, but just in case i still hope that every thing in here is correct...

I have a momentary contact toggle switch to start my car, i thought about what i could use that button on the shifter for, couldn't think of anything real good though, too easy to bump when your driving... i ended up doing away with the whole knob in place of an aftermarket shift knob

Wohooo... its a rocket ship is it yet comparable to when we had it running before it blew up the last time? I'd be curious to now re-check your compression after having been driving it so much, i'm curiouse weather it may have gone up some... I don't know if i'll see you tonight, if not, i'll give you a call...

So i've seen this cool problem where you are working around in that are and you bump the cruise control line... it pulls a little clip out of the selonoid that mounts on the fire wall (near the brake booster), cuasing funny idle issues, and that code. I managed to do that on a car i did a transmission on, took having some one else at the shop look at it with me to figure it out. I'm not sure that your car has the same cruise control as the one that i goofed up, but its worth a look... if that is indeed it, press the clip back in and clear the ecm memory...

Was the boot split open? Dirt get inside it? if you are doing the cvj becuase you needed a doj and it was convinent to do it while it was out you can clean out the joint and put a new boot and grease on it without removing the cup. If it had been split and gotten dirt in it i usually try to replace the axle to be safe...

Your car won't run well at all with out an maf, and you will then most certintly throw a cel, in adition to whatever it is now. I've worked on cars in the past that have developed that same hum, its a tough one to find, but it is usually to do with the resonator setup on the car. Check to see that you didn't knock any of the resonators partially free of the intake... if the air leak is after the maf that would be enough to cause your cel... you might might want to stop by some wehere to find out what the light is... that might be a little more indicitive of what the problem really is, the light may be something completely un related...

There are cabin filters that you can buy to put in the car, they go in the ac houseing under the glove box, in the forester i belive that it is a two piece cabin filter set, they aren't very expensive at all. Give it a try, might help.

Hey i know why it bogs down... your hood scoop is screwing up your aerodynamics... it creates this air vortex around your car that at a certint speed actually pulls the car in a revers direction...

Should run a stock sized orifice in that vacuum line, along with some kind of control selonoid, that is how a wrx does it stock...

Hey, just a thought, i'm suprised that we havn't done this yet, but we really aughta do a running compresion test on your car to see what it does then...

We should try and prop open your waste gate and see what it does running no boost... i would also like to get a wide band o2 sensor on it to see what you read in boost, see what its really doing. i still think it's a fueling issue where you are not changing your fuel as it should to meet the boost... lets throw the boost controler on it tonight to see if it makes a difference...