Danbob99

The axles are also different size at the bearing seal, the older one very well may not seal against the newer style bearing. If your axle boot has not been open for very long you can repalce just the boot and repack it with grease, saving yourself the original axle. Its not hard to do, only special tools you'd need would be a pair of snap ring plyers. I can walk you through doing it if thats the route you want to go. Dan

I've seen many, many a issue with aftermarket thermostats in these cars. They do need to be removed, and are often replaced with the waterpump replacement. The aftermarket thermostats are often too short and do not extend fully into the flow of coolant, so do not get the proper amount of heat exposure, and don't open properly. So, the thermostat is a definit posibility. Air in the cooling system is also a large posibility. As far as checking for other damages, be sure to have them check for Hydrocarbons in the cooling system to see if the headgaskets were damaged from the over heat. Thats the biggest thing to check. You could try and twist their arm for a fresh oil change to eliminate any posibility of damage to the oil. Dan

Go fishing for the latch under the hood with a coat hangar. It'll either be bound up becuase the car has been in an accident and the latch is no longer aligned correctly (most common) or it will actually have a broken cable. Usually when it just misaligned you can get it open by having someone pull up on the hood while pulling the hood release latch. If that's not it you can try and use a coat hangar or some welding rod to hook the tab that the cable attaches to on the release under the hood. Not an easy way to go though.

That about covers everything i'd check. Odds are really against having done any bearing damage at all. Though if you feel like checking it just hold the spring and spin the wheel, if there is any roughness you'll feel it in the spring. Thats pretty crazy. Not sure why some one would start to steal a wheel, and not realize it had a locking lug nut until they got to it last. People are crazy. Dan

I've used the bosch O2 sensors and not had any problems with them. I would just make sure you get it with the factory plug installed. They are avail. without the plug, but the wire colors are different, so it makes the job a bit tougher. Your problem sounds pretty indicitive of a maf failure though. I'd check that. And figure out what in the world is giving you four failed injector codes. I've never seen four failed injectors at once. Dan

There is a signal that says "open EGR now" and that comes from the ECU and goes to the EGR Solenoid. The EGR solenoid opens and passes vacuum pressure to the EGR valve. The computer knows wheather the solenoid is open or closed; and would give a code for EGR Solenoid operation if there were an issue with that. The P0400 code for EGR Flow is triggered when the computer commands the EGR Solenoid open and the engine RPM and manifold pressure do not change, indicating that the EGR valve is not operational. Dan

The issue here is that the computer doesn't use a specific sensor to determine the EGR operation. It uses rpm fluctation and manifold pressure. You can trick the solenoid easily, but it doesn't sound like that is an issue in this case. Dan

Harsh. I would bet you get a bit more performance if you free up the exhaust flow with some high flow cats. Not much, but if done right there will be some. I would reccomend visiting a pro exhaust shop though to have some one fabricate you something. It'll cost you, but it'll fit right and work well. Most Subaru exhaust stuff doesn't swap very freely between the different era and body style cars. Just my .002 cents. Dan

The computer reads "EGR Flow" failures by sensing engine rpm change when the valve is opened. If the EGR valve is not present, it is obviously not going to work to change the engine rpm. I'm not sure of a way to bypass this. Perhaps an ecu reflash. Dan

I've seen oil leaks leak for a long, long time and not get much worse. If its leaking coolant its a different ball game though. I've seen cars leaking coolant progress from a dribble to a mojor leak in a matter of a few thousand miles. Subaru has a coolant conditioner that supposedly helps quell the leak. Its cheap, worth a try if it starts to leak coolant. Just keep an eye on it. I'd let it fly if its only oil untill it starts dripping. If it starts leaking any coolant i'd get on it a lot quicker. Dan

Here's the catch: California models are different. I don't have one handy to take a pic of for you, but I'll give a shot at guiding you to it. On 49 state cars (Non-CARB) The o2 sensor is just after the second cat. So you follow your exhaust manifold off the heads, it comes together at the y-pipe; right where the two header pieces join you'll find the front o2 sensor on the top. This sensor screws directly into the front catalytic converter. Continue to follow the exhaust back and it comes to another large bulge (the second converter) The rear o2 sensor is on the top on the drivers side of the converter. It is a 4 wire sensor and the wire will run to the drivers side of the transmission (AT and MT are pretty close to the same spot) The wire then runs over the top of the tranny and to the passenger side of the engine compartment. The top right bell housing bolt of the motor has a bracket on it with three plugs, a brown one, a black one, and a white one. The white one is the rear 02 sensor. It then connects to the main engine harness. Now, on California cars, its a bit different. On the exhaust, the front o2 sensor is in the same spot. On the front catalytic converter, follow it the the rear of the converter, and on the top passenger side (kind of hidden) The rear 02 sensor plugs in. Its all in all about 8" from the front 02 sensor. The wires go directly up the passenger side of the engine and are shrouded with yellow sheilding. Good luck. Let me know if you need any other info. Dan

I've got the same problem. I nearly pooped myself the first time driving down the freeway and my vents started blowing steam. After calming down a bit, I figure its condensation off the evap, as said above. Happens to me every once in a while still, but nothing to worry about. The ac is still up to pressure and doesn't over cool. Dan

A lot of the older legacy stuff does have a small step in the flywheel. I know the "210" flywheel does. I beleive the '90' flywheel does not. Nonetheless, if it has a step in it now, it's likely supposed to be there. There would be some serious work to get the clutch disc to wear a groove in the flywheel. Dan

http://www.fumotousa.com/ Just about all Subaru's came with the same drain plug. These Fumoto's are good valves, I see a lot of them. Dan

The combination of both the intercooler and me humping the intercool is just....breathtaking....my life is now a little bit better. Dan

I've got more opinions on this topic than i care to express or feel the need to express at this particular time, so i'll keep this breif. Zap, like every one else, i thank you for all your efforts. I was also rather bothered by alot of what i saw happening in the camp grounds, by campers, and by our leaders. I was thouroughly bothered by your attitude Zap, but now, having read this, and your responses, i do understand and support your opinions. Nothing here should be made as a personal attack against you zap, or any one else for that matter, if there was a problem in the camp ground it is the fault of the people creating the problem, not that of the people who were not there to stop it. Anyways, That is the long and the short of it, i did have a blast this year, learned what a few pounds of mud can do to tire balance, and radiator cooling i would be crushed if next years is not as big if not bigger than this year. I would also be crushed if i did not see each and every one of you involved in all of this glorious after drama, present at the next event. I completely volunteer my time for next year.

I want more of the pics of my car if you have any (?) This makes me happy, some how the ones we took didn't make it home on the camera...

You Rock

This is for you Turbone

The fair ground owner had the pick up, he also had a sedan that it looked like he was putting alot of work into. Word had it he was selling the pick up, not verified by myself though.

One more

I'm in, sorry about the late notice see you in the AM

I suspect the powers steering pump as a source of the high whine, since it had been run so low on fluid it is entirely possible that the pump is toasted, that and the movement in the pully... does it still move llike that? i don't remember seeing it the last time i was looking at it...

It's been fun working to get this car running, i can't wait to see how it does with a good tune on it exciting, i must say