CIS Subaru

I know that '80 and '81 models had external ignition control modules, and '83 and later models had internal ones. I'm pretty sure that the '82 models had internal control modules too, but I'm not positive. In any case, the Black wire (usually with white stripe) goes to the Positive (+) coil terminal, and the yellow one goes to the Negative (-) terminal. ------------- Edit ------------- Looks like someone beat me to it.

Yes, all EA81s are 1.8L... even the turbo ones. Also, all EA71s are 1.6L, and all EA82s are 1.8L. You are correct that the EA71 manifolds won't fit EA81s because the EA71 is narrower. On the other hand, it is possible to use an EA82 manifold on a EA81. As far as a wiring diagram goes, that depends on what car your engine came from. Since you say you have the 4-bolt carb, you must have the Hitachi carburetor. The 2wd models had a computer controling the mixture while the 4wd models did not. The 4wd carb wiring is very simple.

I used to have a set of the 5" 2wd EA81 steel wheels on my '88 wagon, and I could hear them rub if I took an exit ramp at high speed. Just a tidbit of extra info here: The 4.5" rims from 2wd EA71 DLs and STDs will NOT fit on EA82 cars. They are simply too small.

Yeah, I was thinking today that the Maxima ones probably had smaller (aka more like EA82T) pistons, so we could use them without special proportioning valves. Also, I didn't think to check if our brake lines might thread into the banjo bolt hole in the Maxima calipers. As far as the pads go, you would still be using the EA82T pads since the pads must fit into the carrier. From what I saw, none of the pads on the Nissans looked like they would fit our carriers. (and none of the carriers looked like they'd fit our cars, but I didn't really look that closely at the carriers).

After reading this thread... Quest for rear E-Brake I decided to take an EA82T rear caliper to a local junkyard and compare it to whatever I could find on Nissan cars there to see if any other Nissans might be good donors. The first Nissan I found was a '94 Altima, and its rear calipers were too large. Next I found a couple of older Maximas ('85 and '87) with these calipers. These calipers will fit on EA82T caliper carriers, but they use a banjo fitting where the brake line attaches. Finally, I looked at an '87 Nissan 200SX. It had these calipers. These not only fit on our caliper carriers, but the brake line even screws into the caliper just like on the EA82T ones. I believe that these calipers are the same for any '84-'89 Nissan 200SX, so that's what you need if you want a rear E-Brake for your rear disk setup. (wouldn't that be nice for when you jack up the front of the car? not to mention the oversteering fun you could have!) Disclaimers: I did not actually screw my brake line into the 200SX caliper, but since they're both from Tokico I'm assuming they use the same thread. Also the 200SX caliper has a larger piston, so a proportioning valve may be needed to use these on our cars.

Also, make sure that your new pump has the pulley flange the same distance from the pump housing as your old one or your pulley won't line up when you're done. There are two water pumps for EA82 cars, one for cars with factory A/C, and one for non-A/C and dealer installed A/C cars. I've had one of each, so I can't remember which was which.

The Bentley manual covers the EA81T better than any other aftermarket manual I've seen. My scanner isn't working right now, but if someone else could scan pages 161 and 162 for you, I think they have what you want. Pages 55 and 62 also have diagrams that might help. Otherwise, I think the only manual that will properly cover what you want is the turbo addendum for the '83 FSM. Someone on this board surely has one... just need to find out who. I would guess that McBrat or ShawnW might have one.

I'm seriously considering getting "Historic Vehicle" plates for my '80 EA81 Hatchback. Here in Ohio, that plate means that you are exempt from the normal $50 annual tag renewal fee, and get cheaper insurance rates. The latter comes from the annual mileage restriction required for this type of plate. This car will never be my daily driver, so I think I can deal with restricted mileage. The only other requirement is that the car must be 25 years old. My doorplate says that milestone is coming up in February.

BobBrumby, Did the Australian EA81s ever come with the C/W carb? I thought that was a U.S. model only thing. Seth, you will need to use a different intake manifold. I've never heard of anyone selling an adapter to put a Hitachi carb on the C/W manifold. Redline doesn't even sell an adapter for putting a Weber carb onto that manifold. If you use a Hitachi carb that used a computer (probably from a 2wd model), then you will need to swap to that computer in order to use that carb. The wiring is different also, so I would not recommend this route. Most 4wd EA81 powered Subarus that used Hitachi carbs (in the U.S.A.), did not have a computer. I would use one of these carbs (with matching intake manifold) to replace your C/W carb. It would also be possible to use an EA82 carbutetor and manifold, but that swap is not nearly so straightforward.

Sorry man. I thought I was just sharing some info I've collected. Thanks for the info on the manifold swap though. I was obviously misinformed.

'70s and '80s Nissan trucks used a Hitachi carb that is larger than the EA82 one, but still bolts directly up to the EA82 carb intake manifold. I've never run one, but I did test fit one at a junkyard. This carb is a 30/34 where the EA82 carb is a 28/32 and the EA81 carb is a 26/30. The Nissan trucks have a 2.0L engine, so I bet the jetting is pretty close to correct. Also, since they're trucks they don't have as much emissions crap attached to them. No ECU! It seems like maybe Isuzu trucks and SUVs from the same time period may have used these carbs too, but I can't remember right now. ----------------- EDIT -------------------- Oops, I was a little backwards. I'm pretty sure the 30/34 carb mentioned above was from an Isuzu, though some older Datsun/Nissan trucks used them too. Here's a list of larger Hitachi carbs that I just accumulated from various websites: 81-84 Isuzu Imark 1.8L DCH-340 81-82 Isuzu P'up 1.8L DCH-340 83-87 Isuzu P'up 1.9L DCH-340 85-90 Isuzu P'up and Trooper II 2.3L DCR-384 84-87 Isuzu Trooper II 1.9L DCR-340 81 Datsun 510 2.0L DCR-342 82-86 Nissan Stanza 2.0L DCR-342 75-80 Datsun Pickup 2.0L DCH-340 81-83 Nissan Pickup 2.2L DCR-342 83-85 Nissan Pickup 2.4L DCR-384 82-84 Chevy S-10 1.9L DCH-340 80-86 Nissan Pulsar 2.0L DCR-342 80-86 Nissan Pulsar 2.2L DCR-360 83-85 Nissan Pulsar 2.4L DCR-384 I'm pretty sure the DCH-340 was the one I test fit onto a EA82 manifold. From what I've seen, the model numbers of Hitachi carbs tell you the throttle bore sizes as follows: First 2 digits are the larger bore. Last digit is the last digit of the smaller bore, so you have to assume the first digit of the smaller bore. So an EA81 DCP-306 is a 26/30, an EA82 DCZ-328 is a 28/32, etc. If anyone tries one of these carbs, PLEASE let us know how it works.

John, What part of town was this in? I saw a black one of these, that most likely is the same one in this ad, in Grove City a couple years ago. I left a card on it with my email address and the old messageboard URL, but never heard from them. Sadly, I have neither the money nor the space to get this car. (and convertibles in Ohio don't seem too practical).

Right. The larger carbs only bolt up to EA82 intake manifolds because they both use the longer bolt pattern. But an EA82 manifold will bolt onto an EA81 (with a clever trick to get the disty to clear the EA82 thermostat housing).

Yes. I think the ND disty was standard on any EA81 with an O2 sensor. (not that the two are actually related) My '88 4wd Hatchback has the ND disty and an O2 sensor, as do all of my 2wd EA71/EA81 cars. In general though, 4wd cars got the Hitachi dist, while 2wds got the ND one. In what way did the exhaust gaskets not fit? and which exhaust gaskets? The "flange" gaskets between the Y-pipe and the heads are the same for all EA71/EA81/EA82 cars. I guess the diameter of the hole in the middle might vary some, so I always use EA82 ones on all of my cars. If you asked for "exhaust manifold" gaskets and got gaskets that look like large thin washers, those are the ones that go between the cast iron air pipe flange and the head. Any other exhaust gaskets can vary depending on year and if you have a stock exhaust or not.

It's possible. Let us know. I do know that many Nissan pickup trucks used a larger Hitachi carb that bolts directly to a EA82 intake manifold, which in turn bolts directly to an EA81. Throttle plate sizes are as follows: EA71/EA81 = 26mm/30mm EA82 = 28mm/32mm Nissan Truck = 30mm/34mm Also Mazda trucks used Nikki carbs that have similar mounting patterns, but I've never test fit one of these. Isuzu trucks use either the large Hitachi, or the Nikki, but I can't remember which. I've always wanted to try one of these as a cheap alternative to a Weber, but I keep getting sidetracked with other projects.

What car are you putting what engine into? Are you planning to lift it? Which tranny will you use? What fuel injection will you use? I started a project a few years ago to put an EJ22 from a '97 Impreza into my '81 DL Hardtop. I was going to use a Legacy Turbo tranny. I didn't realize that EA cars with different trannies got different center tunnels. I would have to modify my 2wd 5spd center tunnel alot to get the AWD tranny to fit, so that temporarily halted the project. I did test fit the EJ22 engine into the car though. I was actually able to fit the EJ engine mount studs into the original holes in the EA crossmember. It took a little coaxing, so I'll probably slot out the holes a little, but it really wasn't that bad of a fit. If you're going to use factory fuel injection, I recommend getting a very good wiring diagram. I was lucky and got a full factory wiring diagram with my '97 engine. I believe a diagram for the earlier engines is available from Kennedy Engineering (they sell them for people putting EJ22s into VW Buses, but I'm sure they'd still be helpful). Good luck, and keep us updated.

Yes, they do auto adjust for pad wear. That's why you have to screw the pistons back into the caliper. The adjuster nuts for the cables are just for rough adjustment and balance between cables. The mechanisms inside the calipers are the fine adjustment for pad wear. Unfortunately, I'm not real clear on the specifics of how they work.

When I got NAPA head gaskets for my '85 GL-10 several years ago, they turned out to be OE! They looked exactly like the factory gaskets, and even had the FHI swoosh on them.

The grinding going into third is not unusual. I've had two Subarus that did this. It is usually caused by the 3rd gear synchronizer going bad. The car should still be driveable this way for a very long time, but the grinding may get worse. Supposedly you can add things to your transmission oil that can help or eliminate the grinding. One of the most promising additives is something I never had a chance to try out... Rislone Ring Seal. This stuff actually an engine oil additive and is very thick and sticky like honey. It's supposed to help the synchros get moving properly. This makes sense to me since my cars both shifted better cold than once they warmed up.

Great plan man! I too have dreams of building myself a "Locost" some day, but alas they are just dreams right now. I figured I'd use an EA81 because I like them so much, but an EJ22 would certainly be a tempting alternative. As for your brakes, I do believe that XT6 calipers are the only ones that will work the way you want. The only other way I see to use stuff that will bolt-up and fit properly without mods would be to use EA81 or EA82 hubs and brakes with EA82 turbo axles. The problem there is that you then have a 4x140 bolt pattern. On the other hand, the 4x140 pattern can be converted fairly easily to 6x140 (same as 6x5.5") which is a very common pattern for trucks.

But he said it's not the original engine. The best way I know of to tell the difference between the hydraulic lifter engines and the solid lifter engines (in a situation like yours) is by knock sensor hole. The hydraulic lifter blocks have a thread boss cast into the top of the block about an inch in front of the dipstick tube. It is almost perfectly in front (toward the crank pulley) of where the dipstick tube meets the engine block, and it is a flat round spot about an inch in diameter with about an 8mm to 10mm threaded hole in the middle of it. This hole is where the knock sensor would be mounted if it were a turbo engine. The solid lifter blocks do not have this thread boss. They are just cast smooth in this area. I realize this might seem hard to judge if you haven't looked at both before, but if you look at the top of the block behind the intake manifold in front of the dipstick and do not see any hole that looks like something could be screwed onto the block, then you do not have a hydraulic lifter EA81.

I don't think it'll be possible to do what you want, but I know of something close If you used an XT6 tranny, you could accomplish everything you want except the dual-range. It has a 3.9 front diff and locking center diff. If you locked the center diff and removed one of the rear axles, you'd have FWD!

To answer the original question, yes you can just knock the pins out. There is not enough play to take the axles off the tranny at first, but once the engine and tranny are free of their mounts (as you start to lift) you should be able to shift the tranny far enough sideways to get one axle off then shift it the other way to get the other axle off. The axles will be a little bit in your way as you pull the motor/tranny out, but this method does allow you to leave the front wheels on the car during the surgery. Just remember to get the axles back onto the tranny (and aligned properly for getting the pins back in) before you get everything all the way back in place when you re-install or you'll be back to not having enough play.

There doesn't seem to be a black-and-white answer to this question. In many people's opinion, the FT-4WD can be called "AWD". People call all versions of Audi's Quattro "AWD", and its original version was functionally the same as our FT-4WD (except that it had a lockable rear diff). As a general rule, it seems that "AWD" refers to cars that do not require driver input in order to send power to all four wheels. This includes any 4wd car that uses a center diff, center viscous coupling, or other means of automatically balancing power between front and rear. It is my opinion that the 5spd FT-4WD tranny should be classified as "AWD" since it sends equal power to all wheels when moving straight with no slippage and has a center diff to balance the power when turning. The FT-4WD 4EAT transmission has less of a claim of being "AWD" since it acts more like a FWD tranny in a straight line with no slippage, and only sends substantial power to the rear when a front wheel slips. Unlike the 5spd, the 4EAT cannot send more than 50% power to the rear wheels. Never-the-less, I think it can still be thought of as "AWD" since the driver doesn't choose when to activate the rear wheels.

Does anyone know the valve rocker ratio used in the EA81 engines? The best I could measure, they seem to be 1.5:1, but could easily be 1.4 or 1.6 or something else entirely.