mellow65

in a 90 legacy is there a way of testing your knock sensor while driving. as my old auto instructor would call it, to see if it's singing. I think i might need to bump up to the next grade of gas. i just replaced it with a new one because the old one was all sorts of cracked up. as far as i know how they work if it hears a knock it makes a small amount of electricity. is this something i could hook a volt meter up to and read or would i need something more precise like an oscilloscope.

i think it was a redesign of the head gaskets them selfs. if you talk to one of the local shops here that only works on subarus and had for many years, they will refer to the head gaskets in generations, just like a gen 1, 2, or 3 car. i think they said they are on a gen 3 style and haven't had any issues with them. even when they redo the older DOHC ones with the newer designed head gaskets they don't have issues with them ever again.

it was the DOHC that had problems, not to say the SOHC didn't pop head gaskets here and there, just much less then the older ones. In the legacys they changed to SOHC in 2000 in the impreza and forester it was 1999. so the 03 would be the phase 2 motor, AKA the SOHC motor and would be out of the years of major head gaskets issues.

still there as of today. guess no one wants these any more. if i remember right they aren't priced to bad for alloys. the bad part is you have to pay for the tire too, but if you get it removed and take it back you can get a refund for the tire.

i was just out there and they have a new peugeot with 3 14" alloys. no lugs, and no spare . its on the first row of imports as you are walking away from the building. they are this style.

thanks a ton, that's what i needed. now i can put my valve covers back on. and next weekend, lets hope she runs.

does anyone know what the valves are supposes to be adjusted to on a 99 forester 2.5 sohc. thanks

thats the first thing i thought when i saw this thread

+1 for this, i always thought they were different too. So then if they do work I think the legacy keys were the same too.

glad i could help, and in helping you, you helped get that motor back in the rally car too, looks pretty good, man i need to stop looking at all the lifted wagons out there, it always makes me want one. but i have to get my toy back together and play with it.

oh i know oh i know, 1985 but as far as the 88s i have never seen a push button GL. as I always known it and haven't seen different is the DLs had the push button single range but were a stripped down no power windows or anything and the GLs had the DR and power stuff. so it was the easy way of decoding craigs list ads.

its not a cure all, but it defiantly helped in a couple legacys and an older corolla. all of them had grinds into 2nd and after swapping fluid and driving it for about an hour all grinding was gone. you have to make sure you get the NS version. but no it wont take away bearing noise or anything big, nothings that good. but even with bearing noise it shifted awesome.

+1 for the redline 75-90NS it's taken grinds out of 2 or 3 trannys now.

i always wondered what the hell that thing was back there. well i was able to plum all the vacuum lines like it was off of the 2.2 so it shouldn't be an issue now. but at least i got one question answered i had always wondered, what the hell is the black box in the passenger rear bumper.

the basics here, got a 90 legacy im putting a 99 forester motor in it the forester EVAP system basically have the vapors from the tank running through a solenoid and then directly to the intake. no charcoal canister to be seen. the 90 legacy has the vapors from the tank running to a charcoal canister then to a solenoid then to the intake. so to simplify things would it hurt any thing by removing the charcoal canister. the vapors would still be pulled into the intake when the computer wants it to be but just not ran through a charcoal canister. would it have any ill effects by taking it out i still would have it hooked up like the forester had it just no charcoal canister

man thats bs, first because they were a bunch of nice guys when i met them and next because now that you mention the bolts that was one thing on my buddys that was wrong too. as for cutting and welding PM me i can help you with that. this is really BS, i even noticed that they tried to start another group buy and they locked it out because some people haven't gotten all there parts from the last one yet. im sorry but SJR is starting to look much better to me if i do another lift.

i just helped a buddy do his lately and his was normal. maybe you got some secret 6" lift prototype part that wasn't supposed to get out yet. give them a call out at AA and they can get it squared away for you. now that they have a secretary the phone actually gets answered.

i was pretty sure you were going to chime in, but damn it man you are soooo far away. with gas as much as it is i don't just go on my random road trips as much as i used to. i might check with the guys that i bought my welder from and see if there is any way of running aluminum through it.

I am wanting to add a bung to the water outlet so i can run an after market temp gauge on a ej25 anyone ever had luck doing this or is it a waste of time. if it's not a crazy idea move on to the second part do you or do you know anyone that it pretty good with an aluminum welder, i just need an air tight weld, no crap if i can avoid it. ah hell it can look like crap if it needs to i just need it not to leak.

man i miss my wagons:( i forgot how much crap you can fit in those things. then with roof rack, and some creative strapping you can fit just about as much on top of the car as you can in the car.

if you want the next time i'm out at the JY I can grab you a whole hand full so you can pick and choose the good ones. and remember, no salt out here so even the old stuff doen't have rust. not unless you are just wanting to go all new let me know

cool thanks i'll call him tomorrow.

sounds good, i'll give it a shot to explain. i have a 90 legacy and i am putting a phase 2 ej25 in it. the intake between the ej22 and the ej25 are not even close to fitting. i have heard of someone that used a 99 wrx intake manifold that used the older style IAC that is mounted to the intake and not the throttle body like the phase 2 ej25 and the ej18. so my options are, use the ej25 throttle body and intake, swap TPS from the ej22 on it and live with out a IAC (which i have been doing for awhile now, just got to keep your foot on the gas when you start it up, and it's on my rally car so i really don't care to much about cold idle) next would be use a ej18 throttle body on a ej25 intake and go that route. i would have the IAC from the ej18 throttle body. not totally sure if this would work because of the different styles of IAC between the ej18 and ej22, but the plugs are the same between them. don't want to really go this route because the throttle body is the smallest of them all. next would be, use my ej22 throttle body on the ej25 intake and forgo the IAC, again, not the biggest problem in the world. and the best combo assuming it would all work. ej22 or ej25 throttle body(which ever one is bigger, not sure yet) on a 99ish WRX intake with a ej22 IAC on the intake. so it could idle if I needed it to cold. the main question is, does the JDM WRX intakes fit the the phase 2 ej25 heads. the next question would be would the ej22 IAC fit the JDM WRX intake. So if that made sense that is what I am trying to do.

but does anyone have a JDM WRX intake manifold laying around that I could see if parts would fit on. if things work like i hope they will i would be in the market for one. but if it doesn't then you would save me from buying one and finding out that way that it didn't fit.

wow thanks, it would have been ok if you waited till the morning or at least for it to warm up a little, but thanks again. that gives me all the info i need.