Erik R

I got it all together yesterday. One problem, though. NO Compression! Maybe 60 psi on one bank and 90 psi on the other............. I double checked the timing belts and their respective alignments.......... Did I get the cams out of phase? This is why I posted this little project. If I have anything to do with it; there will be problems.................. Man, I am just glad I don't do this for a living........I would be eating this job and loading up my tools and looking for employment elsewhere . Any suggestions on something I overlooked would be appreciated....... My apologies to the Moderators if this is a "beaten to death" subject, or repetitive............I have VERY little time for the 'net as of late. TIA

I pulled the engine out of my '87 GL EA82 last week. It had lost a LOT of power, felt like the A/C was on all the time...........noisy lash adjusters, almost sounded like a rod knock. Compression was 140's on the even side and 170's on the odd side (where the noisy adjusters were). This has been an "after hours" project; sometimes I go in early and work on it. Didn't touch it on the weekend or holiday. Just a couple of hours a day during the work week. The engine has been on the bench and slowly; as time allows, it's getting some much needed attention. So far, this is what I've done: Replaced all "lip" seals on crank, cams and oil pump. Removed cam case from "dizzy" side and replace all four lash adjusters (even when cleaned, they would not pump up). Clean and blow-out cam case and relief valve. Re-install with new "o"ring and fresh sealer. Replaced "Mickey-Mouse" seal and O-ring on oil pump body. Pump shows little signs of wear and is well within tolerances given in manual. Lip seal was pliable and dry on the out side, but I replaced it anyway. Removed flywheel for re-sufacing. Replace and install new clutch and pilot bearing (I know, I paid too much :-( ). Removed and cleaned intake manifold. Seals at the ends were soft and leaking. Almost didn't get two of the bolts out.....lots of corrosion here. Cleaned with "Roloc" wheel and skinned new gaskets with sealer. Anti-seize on bolt threads and under bolt heads; hoping for easy maintenance later. Also, anti-seize on EGR tube threads and under tubing nuts. Replaced PCV valve and hose to junction. Relaced water pump with a new one, recycled studs from old pump. New "o" ring on inlet tube. Install new timing belts. Replace covers and install crank pulley. Now I just need to pull the release fork from trans., replace boot, lube pivots and replace T/O bearing....new retaining clips, of course. Then I will drop the engine back in. Note: In trying to remove the timing pulleys from crank snout, I noticed the manual said they would slide off........NOT!! apparently, someone got over zealous with red lock-tite and it seeped under these pulleys.........I had to destroy them with a three-jaw puller to get them off.........I needed to change the crank seal behind them. Oh, no lock-tite used in the re-install, just torqued to 79 ft. lbs. Good thing I still had my original engine (melted down at 197k...........don't ask, I wasn't the owner at the time) with pulleys still attached........:-) . With the Holidays and family commitments, I haven't had time to post and update sooner. Sorry if this is all too routine or boring. I am an "FNG" here, so please bear with me. Thanks for reading......:-)

Too late for me to get the $99 deal......clutch is already in. Rooinator, that's good to know that Kragen/Shucks/Checker Auto parts is so forgiving.......or not very observant. You never know .

I know I paid more than I should for a clutch..............but I needed it like YESTERDAY and availability was more important.............I have been driving my V8 powered truck, 4 days to work has cost me $25...........that same $25 would last me 3 weeks in my Soob. I didn't care about the warranty......but I kept my receipts anyway, you never know...... I don't expect another 100k miles from my car....the motor will be trash by then and I can get a replacement for just a little less than what I am spending now on this engine ( I know, go figure......hey, I'm not a mechanic)..........I'm sure the clucth will be cooked by then.........but, I have 62k miles on the clutch I just pulled out.....lining is good, pressure plate, BAD....no big.....

Hey, I just intalled a seal set in my oil pump (EA82 non-turbo). Maybe I can still pull the packages out of the waste bin and get the #'s for ya........Local Soob dealer had all in stock, though not actually sold as a set. "mickey-mouse" gasket looks like it sounds......and is imperative to good oil pump function. Kind of pear shaped with two "ears" on one side......to seal the inlet and outlet from the oil filter (I think?)

I just picked one up from Kragen Auto. $180 plus tax; lifetime warranty (if you surface the flywheel and keep your receipt). I had my flywheel surfaced for $37. Dropped it off and picked it up 45 mins. later

I took over 69 pics today...........MilesFox, I will email some to you. I did an engine pull on my '87 EA82 SPFI.......

Wow, you are stronger than I am. I am not going to attempt to pull mine out by "hand" :-\ I will be pulling mine out again; maybe in the next week with any luck. I have a 2 megapixel camera........you guys want me to take pics? I have access to a concrete floor shop, so the shop hoist will roll smoothly.......engine should be out in no time, but I will be working alone, so problems can and do arise. Usually this involves repeat trips to the toolbox for something or other........plus a few trips to NAPA for the basics and the local Subaru dealer for the precision stuff (hydraulic lash adjusters, cam cover sealing kit, oil pump seal kit). I will probably do the clutch this time (pilot bearing, friction disc, pressure plate and T/O bearing), as well as the water pump, thermostat, upper/lower rad. hoses, timing and v-belts. I don't want to leave any stone unturned this time. I don't like working on MY car all the time. I don't enjoy things when they are a grind.......:brolleye: It's all weather dependent, as I won't be able to roll the car in far enough to close the roll-up door........:madder: Too much junk in the way............but hey, it's not my shop . If I get stuck, I will check in here for guidance..........

MilesFox, Nice write ups..........Much better than Haines Manual....good, real world type explanation. This is NOT a criticism, only my personal experience. You have to realize, I was on my own and just improvised as I went. I don't reccomend anyone try to imitate what I have done, I just wanted to relate my experience. I am lucky to have an engine hoist to make it easy, I realize some people don't and you have written your article to suit. On the Engine Removal, I am curious about something. I have had mine out twice and have never needed to disconnect the P/S hoses....I just lay the pump back where the spare tire goes. The A/C compressor, I just set it in the battery tray. No need to discharge it......especially with the cost of A/C service these days. This will sound silly, but I tie a rope to the "loop" on the hood and go back over the car to the rear bumper. This holds the hood almost vertical, no prop rod in the way. Anyway, just my .02 cents worth....... :-) Kudos on your undertaking the write-ups............... Wish I had access to that kind of info 6 years ago.......

Put me down on the "interested" column. I need something to drive my Volvo buddy nuts! :cool:

I am new here; but not new to Message forums or BBS. I am just glad I found a place like this. I have owned my '87 GL wagon since Feb. '98 and have had to do almost all repair work without much in the the way of help or advice, other than the Haines manual and the occaisional hint from a dealer mechanic. SubaruJunkie, I am just east of you; right off US 50. You can bet I won't just be reading or lurking. I will read a bit at first; just to get a feel for the 'Board and it's members and how thing work before I "jump-in". I have some upcoming work to do on my car, so I may ask a few things if I feel I'm in over my head. Great site, BTW :cool: .