Erik R

Right on! I didn't get started on mechanical stuff until I was 14..................... It's good to get started early..............Maybe a good excuse to get more Sube's?

Check out this page: http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/ea82_hydraulic_lifter_fix.htm Of course, I read it after I had already pulled my engine, removed my cam case and replaced my lash adjusters..............

Well, a magmount is a compromise............hard mounting is preferred..............if you have a trailer hitch, they make mounts for those that "swing-away" for towing use and istall in minutes...........Otherwise, a hole in the roof would be the best; electrically speaking that is. I don't know about the roof structure or where any of the cross-bars are located in the roof.........sure would be tough to mount throgh one of those..........maybe you have to drop the headliner and see......... A trunk "lip mount" might work on the tail-gate hatch.......most of them will angle in most directions. I use a mag-mount, but am planning on going to the "hole-in-the-roof" NMO Motorola style mount..............It's not high on my priority list right now............. Let us know what you decide to go with and maybe a link to a pic so we can see how it looks...........

OK, so you have done this before....................didn't mean to imply you were a neophyte to radio electronics......... I did not see and you didn't say on your page; did you fuse both power wires? This is important! Also, tear out your interior?.......Geez.......I was able to install my radio in my '87 without drilling through the firewall or removing the carpet.................mounted my radio under the passenger seat, mic clipped to the side of the console; along with an external speaker. Control head is mounted to the dash, directly above the A/C vents. Power wires were snaked under the carpet and up behind the A/C box......from there, you can go through the big rubber grommet near the Vacuum reservoir. The wires go vertical here, then across and under the lip above the spare and over to the battery. Two hour install, very easy......I went with a mag mount, since I have 50w out, gain is not a necessity.

Always run your power supply wires directly from the battery and put inline fuses on both wires.........in case the diodes crash on your alternator, the radio won't become a casualty. Also, less "whine" from all the electronics in your car when you connect directly to the battery. If it does "whine" after the install let us know. We can tell you how to suppress it...........

Any of the antennas you mentioned will work.............the mag mount ones do just fine...............make sure you have a good "match" for better performance...........an SWR of 1:1 is optimal; but almost never achieved. If you can get it below 1.5:1 that should do fine. Oh, and your finals will thank you......

I will be at P-n-P, south Sunrise tomorrow............anyone care to join me? I should be there about 1-1:30pm........... Partsman, I will keep an eye out for your item............... Otherwise, I will be looking for another Air Mass Meter......mine is "out of range"..........

The local "Walk-in" Yard gets half of what ever the Dealer gets for a new one............in this case, they told me $75................No warranty either, once it goes out the door. No, they don't ohm them out first either!! That's why it's either go to the big "D" and pay $125, or go to P-n-P and take my chances.............. The profit margin at these bone-yards is unreal.................:temper: At least at the dealer you get a NEW part.......

Hopefully I will make a run over there this weekend..................I would like to get some "spare" parts for just in case............. If I go (Murphy's Law might have other plans), I'll take my Fluke meter to check the resistance on the solenoids............. I will PM you if I find anything .

I picked mine up at Pick-n-Pull............I've had it in my tool chest for a while, so I don't remember what I paid........$5-$6 at most. Just tell the cashier it's a "switch", don't tell them what it does........might save a few bucks that way . Partsman, I saw several EGR solenoids when I was at P-n-P a few weeks ago...........maybe there are a few left. If I have time to go back (I need to go back anyway, I need more bits) I'll ohm one out.....if it's good I'll pick it up for you.

It seems I neglected to mention...........TPS=Throttle Position Sensor......... My bad............:brolleye:

As stated above, look for a "spark plug thread chaser".........it will have 14mm and 18mm (just flip it) and it will fit into your spark plug socket................this is a common problem........... To avoid this in the future, try a 3' foot chunk of 3/8" fuel/pcv line. Push it down over the ribbed part of the plug and use the fuel line like an extension............... thread it in by hand.......when it stops (or if it jams) ,the fuel line will "strip" off the plug; no damage to threads............also makes a great "universal" to get around obstructions............this is an old trick we used to change plugs at the track............. on a hot engine equipped with headers......kept our fingers from getting burned!

Hey, why don't you try that fiberglass "header tape" to keep the heat in......wrap it back about 2' or so from the cyl. heads and see what happens...........a hot pipe will "draw" and might make up for some of your loss of low-end torque............... If it works, let us know? Summit or Jeg's will have the tape.........

I have been having trouble with surging, poor throttle reponse and terrible fuel economy..............:temper: . This has been hard to chase down, but my conclusion was test all sensors and switches and go from there. I found that my TPS switch was "out of range". Now, using the Haynes manual will mess you up here.......they say to test terminal "D"......this is the power wire, NOT the signal wire! After getting that figured out, I tested the switch UNPLUGGED from the harness with my "Fluke" meter set to ohms.............resistance should gradually climb as the throttle is rotated..........well, it did to about halfway; then it went down! . Replacement was in order, but let me tell you; with the A/C compessor installed, it's a .............well, its a challenge. To save others time, here is what worked ('87 GL wagon, EA82 SPFI): Disconnect negative battery cable Remove alternator (this is so you can get a good grip on your long tip screwdriver) Removed fuel inlet tube (threaded). Removed fuel pressure regulator. Rotate switch toward rear of engine (you will have to rotate the throttle along with it). Lift wire harness up out of the way Replace switch; being mindful of the O-ring...... "cleanliness is Godliness" as they say......... Hope this is helpful..............:wave: Many Thanks to all who posted to my previous thread on this subject and also to those who emailed me personally............. USMB Rocks! *edit was for spelling error.......sorry, I don't type!*

I feel your pain.......I have a "gas-hog" Ford also.......... My boss has a 35' winnebago w/ford V10.........9mpg all day;towing or not...........I get 12mpg with my 360 V8, but it's reliable (it's only caught on fire once!! That's a story for another forum). I used an '85 F-250 with a 460 auto to tow my Sube back from the Central coast.......4 1/2 hours and 10 mpg............I didn't have to stop though, I had dual tanks . Hey, anything for a Sube, right?

My car does it too...............I think in my case the heater core is going out.........no mist on the window or foul odor, just past experience with these types of problems...................I dread having to change out the heater core on one of these cars.......it got to be tough.......

Don't forget: Heat!! This is a major problem on V8's......keeping the headers H O T.........They can be wrapped with a fiberglass cloth or you can buy them with a ceramic coating. It's like a stove pipe.....when cold, it won't draw; smoking into the room until the flue heats up............heat draws air in. If you think you over did it on your pipes, try insulating them wth something, like the "header wrap" I mentioned above. GD is correct about the size of the main head pipe......should be smaller...........anything larger than the port size is a waste......... If using a carb., it should act like it's been jetted UP........... Short-stroke engines are VERY sensitive to changes in intake or exhaust....... I noticed the factory pipes are covered in sheetmetal............if not to prevent brush fires, it sure looks like it keeps the head pipes out of the cool breeze............... Sorry, I'm applying V8 knowledge where it doesn't belong, but flow dynamics are.....well, there are similarities.

I had mine go out on me about 5 years ago.............the CEL never came on, but it was enough to make me fail an emissions test. Upon removing the cover, I saw the code being flashed...... This wouldn't keep your car from starting, mine ran fine when it was bad......it just made my HC readings go way up..... Both the purge solenoid and the EGR solenoid are poorly mounted.....too close to all the engine heat, makes them sticky and eventually fail. New ones at the big "D" are about $120......I just got one two months ago (failing to find a good one at the 'yards).

Flywheel was(EA82 SPFI, D/R) 26 lbs, disc and pressure plate added 10 lbs. I used an old bathroom scale; so I can't guarantee accuracy............sorry. It had just been cut at the Machine shop, but they told me they didn't shave much off, it just needed to be de-glazed.

Torxx, did you re-gap your plugs after installing the accel coil? If so, what did you gap yours to? Maybe that's why I didn't notice a "top-end" gain with mine.......I haven't re-gapped my plugs yet......they are still at .044"

I understand what is being worked on here........but many of the same principles apply to ALL 4 cycle ICE's.............I have built several different types of engines over the years; just thought I would throw in my .02..... Not trying to steer the thread off course................back to Sube's!

I just purchased one of these coils and installed it yesterday (I paid too much, but when you need it, you need it!). My stock coil was waaay out of spec...............The Accel unit bolts in with no modification, other than having to tighten down the clamp screw to get a decent grip on the coil. No HP gain to speak of, but Definately a BIG gain on the low-end rpm response..........seems to have better torque and smoother acceleration. After installing one of these; is it necessary to re-gap the spark plugs? If so, what to?

Many people have wiped out the lobes on a new cam letting it idle.......... I don't think this applies to the Subaru engine (maybe the pushrod ones? I don't know), as the cam and lifters are not in direct contact and the lobes are ground straight across; intead of having a slight "ramp" like pushrod engines do, so that the lifter will rotate slightly every time it is moved. This is to reduce wear across the "face" of the lifter (lifters are ground to a convex on the bottom) and prevent the cam from losing it's "nose". On American V8's, this is the only place in the engine where cast iron and chilled iron are in direct contact. Lifters are chilled iron. Cams are usually cast iron and fairly soft. On these type of engines; make sure it starts the first time and run at a fast idle for 20-30 mins., shut down, let it cool, change oil and filter, restart. Then you can let it idle all you want......

Only getting 240 miles on a 12 gallon fill-up............... Still "surging" and now pops out of the throttle body.....feels just like a lean pop on a carbed engine...............

RR, I know what you mean................but all's well that ends well, right? I guess I'm just going to have to live with the surging problem, I just don't have the time or money to keep futzing with this car. I only get 19 mpg now........I got 24-27mpg before. I'm going to let this thread die, I just though someone would have an idea as to what is causing this condition. Thanks for all the help so far (refering to other threads also). This IS a great site............