Erik R

I was having the same problem.................. I think I will start a new thread; it will be more specific

Sounds like MMO time............... It took a few weeks, but the ticking is quited down; especially on cold starts......

Bummer ! (you didn't get hurt or anything? Anyone else involved? Hope not.) Looks like it was a nice car................Part it out for cash and pick up another one............ Should be able to straighten that roof rack back out for use on your next ride......... Good luck and happy hunting!

Great link.......Tnx for the URL!

If there are any left, put me on the list with Northguy.............Those are some fine shirts

Just a bump............... Don't want to see it fall of the end of the list............ I am still interested....

Any of you guys been to any of these?: Hungry Valley SVRA Hollister Hills SVRA Carnegie SVRA Oceano Dunes SVRA This one looks cool (42,000 acres!), but it's quite a way from some of us: Ocotillo Wells SVRA

Last December.............pulled engine, changed out lifters, resealed oil pump. Now, 3k miles later........the tapping is coming back! (I used all Subaru dealer parts, BTW). I even changed the oil and filter 3 times in that period. I am trying the MMO that has been suggested here many times; but I don't have much faith in "snake-oil" remedies............time will tell. These engines will run a long time with the "death-rattle" (lifters, lash adjusters, cam followers; take your pick)............I let mine go for 14 months and 18k! I lost mileage and power, but it never failed. While oil changes may help, it's the lack of maint. before you get the car (the dreaded PO) that you can't reverse.............that and the top-end oiling system is precarious on it's best days. With 135k, you may be due for timing belts anyway.........good time to do the pump seals..............it can be done "in-car", but it's a LOT easier with it out on the bench, IMHO.

I am 30 miles east of "Sack-of-Tomatoes" off U.S. 50...............A get together of some kind would be cool; maybe at an ORV park?? Cali?.........must be an out-of-state term. With us natives, it's either NorCal or SoCal.............there is a big difference. Actually, I have heard and used many other names and acronyms for it, but I dare not repeat any of them here. Good Idea, BTW

With only 261k on an EA82 SPFI.............. Since someone a few pages back mentioned a Benz with 300k, check this car out: http://www.vcoa.org/irv_o_meter.shtml http://www.hillmanimages.com/912/081801_467.html Engine was rebuilt at 675k..................I know, it doesn't count here...............Subaru may very well be the equivalent to the Volvo in Japan and abroad..............alot cheaper to maintain also! (former Volvo owner.........they resell very high)

Pardon my ignorance, but what is "g,d&r"? Pre-load for sbc is .400".......I know that. I have built several of them in the last 15 years and all are still running................. If I appear to be "ignorant" or "inexperienced", then I am not coming across clearly here. Misinformed? Maybe, but old habits die hard. I only came here to learn how to keep my car on the road. It's that simple. Actually, I hate working on cars in general (just tired of it) and avoid it at all costs. I don't think we need to be "professional" mechanics or belong to SAE to work on or maintain these cars. I still think the oiling system on the EA82 is a strange animal and requires clean oil........or else!!..............The curse of the loud lifters will be upon us........ Glad to hear your car is running well............ Hope you enjoyed the holiday weekend.

No, any internal combustion engine will be designed for maximum efficiency......which would be running at 198 deg F.......... How does the heat dissapation factor in? It's the expansion that's causing the trouble............aluminum alloys expand several times faster than steel or cast iron (Toyota 22R is a Cast iron block, w/adj. rocker arms......last time I checked!) ; making it necessary to have a constantly variable "lash adjuster/ lifter" (read"hydraulic" here).........If the check valves are stuck, this would explain why they are noisy when cold.......then the noise goes away after warm-up. If this was a stationary engine, in say a generator application; this would be a moot point. Single grade oil would be employed; season specific, of course. I'm sure some people may run 30w oil............why not? I have seen VW engines go 140k miles before tear down......owner only used 30w oil, same brand. All this and an engine with NO oil filter (that "rock screen" doesn't count as a filter). Now, I'm not saying 20w-50 is THE answer to anything; but it's well suited to high mileage engines that tend to leak and have some blow-by. I have always had oil drain out when changing the filter...........I have always used NAPA and Wix filters...........still had lifter noise. It didn't go away for me until I replaced the lash adjusters with OEM units...........Yes, all four of them. Sorry I left out the "off-center" part in regard to "conventional" cam/lifter relationships..............On the rotational RPM's; I'll have to take your word for it, as I have never counted rotations on my lifters before (V8's here). Too busy pre-loading the lifters.............I have stock valve covers with the tops cut out.......no mess, no oil on the manifolds during adjustment..... asavage, Lively discussion here........I like it! I don't mean to be contentious at all...............Thanks for the compliments..........I don't consider myself to be "educated", but I do know a little about a few things......... Experience has been a tough teacher.............."there are no free scholarships to the school of experience".......................

Fleet oils have ash in them so you can use it in diesels...........diesels have a lot of blow-by and the oil tends to acidify quickly..............ash neutralizes acids.............. I have used Delo 400 before in a V8 and it worked quite well..........Never tried Rotella, but I hear good things about it. Synthetic oil?...........too expensive and you will have leaks in places you never had leaks before............... Torxxx, what kind of oil filter do you use? Just curious.......... I don't to go way off-topic here............. oil pumps and lifters..............

I chopped up asavages reply........I'm not good at this, so bear with me please. I agree with this mostly; but must break ranks with you on the "viscosity" thing..................As oil is heated, it's viscosity drops and these engines run hot (heat makes power).........................the "W" after the "20" in "20W-50" only denotes that it is suitable for winter use, but only down to about +20 deg. Myself, I wouldn't use it if ambient temps are going to be below freezing (32 deg. F. here in U.S.). Since many people (I say this because I am a user on other auto/truck MB's) think the "W" stands for "weight"........try putting a bottle of your favorite 10w-40 on a scale.........then try the 20w-50...........does the higher grade oil weigh more???? The problem might be more related to service intervals and type of oil filter used...........how long do you go between oil changes? Does your oil filter have a check valve in it? I agree here also. Why just one lifter or two? Why does it require total replacement to solve the problem? Any engine with "ramps" on the camshaft and lifters that are ground convex will require that they stay in the same position for the duration of their service life. They rotate slowly to prevent wear.........since both the cam and lifters (cam followers) are cast iron.........kind of dumb; don't you think?..........seen any 300k sbc's lately??? asavage, You covered it! I just think the lifters only need a steady supply of CLEAN oil............I think the pressure thing is blow way out of proportion..................the lash adjusters (not lifters, they don't move too much) pump themselves up, but have no real way to flush themselves out..........dirt gets in, the unit malfuntions. Dirty oil is trapped inside with a quantity of engine oil................heat does the rest. The check valves stick shut and even if you change the oil; the good, clean oil won't just go right in..............remember, the check balls are stuck, so the oil just passes by and is bled off at the releif valve in the "Banjo" bolt. Sorry folks, I think it is a design flaw...................but it doesn't stop the engine from running almost FOREVER................ I have owned and worked on many cars; but I think the Sube is one of the best.

That should have returned you to normal operation......assuming that connecting the wires wrong on the coil doesn't harm any of the other related electronics.................I don't know if it would....... I put in an Accel coil in my car and have yet to change my plug gap, but I know I should.................Stock is .044 and it should go to .047-.048........... .050 might be a little much, but I guess the coil will "make the jump"

xforxlifex, I did not think you had your plug wires crossed, just the coil wires.............again, it will still run, but not very well........

That's a new one on me...........I have had clutches stick after a vehicle has sat for an extended amount of time.........I always figured that condensation played a role, along with clutch "dust".....Couldn't get into any gears without turning the engine off first.......after warm-up, it would drive normally; like nothing was wrong to begin with. You guys weren't dropping the clutch at 6 grand were you?...........

I have only had trouble with this when my alternator was going south; bad diode...........now my FM tuner sounds clean......it's the AM tuner that is hard to clean up.............Medium Frequencies are tough when it comes to ambient noise; especially overhead power lines................I digress.............Next time I jump in the car, I will see if my rear window heater has the same effect........very interesting.

If you get the wires mixed up and connect the coil with reverse polarity.........it will still work, but with a 60% loss of efficiency........

EA82 Purge and EGR solenoids............It's hard to find good used ones and I paid $125 for one from the Sube dealer :boohoo:

PM sent......check your inbox N8NQU.........

I agree with an earlier poster......nothing wrong with an RPD carb.; if you work it over first.................but on a Sube?......Why? I have gone over 100 mph in a standing 1/4 mile with a Q-Jet I worked over.........drove it to work everyday too.........got 14 mpg! The Dual-Jet is a POS.............I would avoid it. A better carb would be the 2G model.........but they are in high demand for the retro dual and tri-carb set ups used on early inline sixes and "bent eights"..................... Miles has a good idea.............2bbl Holley or Autolite/Motorcraft carburetor........very simple design and easy to work on.............a TIG welder and some aluminum stock................I would love to get involved in that project.............. Keep an open mind folks...........

Glad to hear you have it back on the road..........These really are great cars; I know I couldn't live without mine. I'll have to PM you about radio stuff........

Now I know why you couldn't come out and play at P-n-P............. Seriously, you didn't miss anything. NO Brats in the truck section and they pulled out an entire row of '85-'88 wagons and sedans............and they put Hyundai's in there place! We don't get any respect, do we............... CIS huh?....................I have owned and driven several Audi, VW and Volvo's with that system...........it has advantages as well as some quirks................I would say those cars have more torque because they are inline engines; not so much that they have CIS................................. Buy the car; for $300, you can't lose.........unless it's a total rust bucket or completely beat to heck. Just my .02

Are fairly easy. Do it like it says in the manuals for timing belt change............it's easy from there. Make sure your oil pump shaft is not scored too badly where the seal rides, or you may want to get a different seal that will ride on fresh metal. THere is a post regarding that thin seal on here already......... Better to get the seals from the dealer, good quality and EXACT fit. My lash adjusters were really bad, sounded like a rod knock. I drove it for 14 months before I fixed it, with only a slight loss of power and fuel economy....................If you need to change your timing belts anyway; I would go for the whole job, then you don't have to have doubts about it later.....................the lash adjuster thing is always going to be an issue with these engines..........more so as they age, IMHO.