Erik R

So if you can drive out there, supervise/make the swap and get your "new" car hauled back with you as a passenger; that would work, no?Post on there anyway and with whatever plans sound good to you............. On the deal I referenced, the hauler called the buyer.............he didn't want to deadhead out to an area where he would be picking up a load, so he drove 90 miles out of his way to pick up the vehicle I sold, just to defray his fuel/food costs. If it doesn't work out, sorry. Like a steer, all I can do is try..............

Put my car on ramps and crawled under it yesterday...............found out that I did have a missing bolt in the heat shielding at the rear of the Y pipe cat.......that cured half my rattle, but..........the CAT on the main pipe?...........The guts are loose inside, I shook it good when it was hot (welding gloves). Also, I shook the the Y pipe and noticed the motor moves around a bit more than I thought; though the mounts appear to be sound. Tranny mounts seem to be "pre-loaded" toward the passenger side..........like the engine is torqued clockwise from the front? Is this condition normal or is it time for new mounts? Sorry for the hijack............. Back to "weird clacking noise"..........

Go to: http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/haulquery.pl I know, it's a tractor site, but nobody likes to "dead-head" (empty trailer on a return trip) and you might be able to post your request and find a "back-haul" to your area. I sold a big truck about 18 mos. ago and I pointed the new owner to that site. He found a hauler who picked up the truck and delivered it for half the cost of a towing company. Good Luck

Both. The circuit being protected from excessive current has a "fusible" link.............an odd name, since it is meant to fuse open!. They are usually made of aluminum-coated copper wire to give a faster "rise time"..........the material fails faster to protect the circuit. The guage of the "link" will determine how much current a particular circuit is intended to handle before the the link overheats and fails..........preventing an overload or worse, a fire. I am speaking in general, of course. I don't know what material Subaru used for their "links", but I noticed they are color coded on mine...........maybe a trip to a wrecking yard is in order?? Match the colors to maintain circuit protection. Chances are that the connectors corroded on one end or the other, causing greater resistance (heat); which in turn left your fusible link to fail as soon as the material in it could take no more.............. Just curious; what circuit was it on?

I have seen this problem on "Domestic" cars and trucks with iron blocks........A small crowbar has served me well each time . Don't try this on your engine......... You may need to remove your cam case as a last resort to get it out.............also, it seems to me that rotating the disty one way and turning the rotor so the gear wants to "ride up" on the drive gear may help "lift" it out................I can't think at the moment which way that would be.......sorry.

Hard to watch on "dial-up"...............the buffering takes forever! I need a new 'puter; this one is too slow!

Jay Zed, good point...............but I don't have the Auto. Trans. If I did, I would investigate. After 500 miles and more, this problem continues to haunt me............the PCV kit helped some, but didn't eliminate the problem. In fact, it's now worse when the engine is cold............any R/H turn and it almost dies............runs down to about 500 rpm or so; then slowly returns to normal. No smoke observed from trhe exhaust; before or after the mod................ What gives? Any more ideas? Maybe one of the "Elite Subaru Masters" will know......... . Thank all for ideas given so far, I think the PCV mod is a good idea overall......there was alot of oil in that small hose when I removed it......

Ouch! on that Y pipe...............I was hoping it wasn't so bad, $$ wise. I have dumped over $700 into my car since Mid-December...........Thought I could take a break on the spending for a while..............My Pass. side CV boot is out too................. . When it rains, it pours!!!

Great thread! I am having a similar problem, only it comes and goes. I always thought it was loose heat shields on the exhaust.......crawled under and checked, none would budge. The "Y" pipe joins the main pipe, there is a spring-over-bolt set that holds the whole mess together.....could this be the trouble? Also, what/where is the cheapest/best place to get a replacement Y pipe? I need an O2 sensor anyway, so I can kill 2 birds with one stone .

While we are waiting...................... For those who have not seen it, contact Zapar and get a copy of "Subarubicon 2.1". Very cool....... Two thumbs up!! Note: it will play on your PS2 ................

SubaRube, you are correct! Here are links to more pics............It's getting too slow loading..........Sorry Low res: http://http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/PCV_modkit_lo.jpg High res: http://http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/PCV_modkit_hi.jpg Instruction sheet: http://http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/Instsheet_low.jpg High res: http://http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/Instsheet_hi.jpg

Installed: Notice I had to "flip" the wire looms around to clear the new, larger hose..............they only give you just enough. This one is now clipped to the fuel return line:

Removed:

Pics:

The PCV Modification kit came in today.........I will post pics (or links to) when I can. I will also let you guys know if it really helps or not.............. I am sure it will help with my "mysterious" oil consumption...............

Remember, I have fuel "infection"; NO carb.................... I ordered the kit today, P/N 11813AA010............... Thanks guys for the tip, I appreciate it .

I just printed out the .pdf at the link above. Sweet.......Now all I have to do is order the kit. This isn't just an emissions issue; it causes a performance problem. Try getting on the freeway with an SUV looming large in the rearview with it's DRL's blazing and your pokey, 85 HP rig that is sputtering and smoking...... Not good.............

Great info., SubaRube! That looks like the ticket to solving my problem............. Thanks for the link

Well, it seems I have the earlier PCV system........Hoses from cam covers are large, passenger side connects to the air intake "boot". Driver side hose from the cam cover connects to a "tee", with a smaller diameter hose going to a connection next to where the passenger side connects to the air intake boot. Hose going down to the PCV valve was replaced in Dec., because it was hard as a rock and broke when trying to disconnect it.........the dealer gave me another hose, but said it was for a "Turbo"?..........It looked the same and is the same diameter. Do I have to change the air intake boot as well? What year did they start using the "newer" PCV system? I'll just go to the dealer and buy new stuff..........the "tee" and other hoses are hard too, they've been on there a while............

My car is sputtering/coughing on right-hand turns. Even freeway on-ramps. It acts like a carburetor would if the float came up and shut off the fuel. As soon as it straightens out, it acts normally. This happens whether I take the turn hard or easy; even when just turning on to a street from a dead stop, just only if it's on the RIGHT......... The rest of the time NO problems (left hand turns, OK), good power, decent fuel mileage.....about 310 to 350 miles per tank. Any ideas as to what the cause might be? It is not getting any worse, but I am getting tired of it; as I have had to do a LOT of city driving lately.............. Is there some sort of check valve that is closing? I'm just speculating at this point.......I am at a total loss

I am using the 2-row CSF radiator...............BTW, that "Radiatorconnection" site is a bit high-priced. I paid less and it was delivered overnight! THe installation problem is not with the radiator itself, it's the fact that the second row of the core is closer to the mechanical fan; so there is less clearance for the fan shroud to slide in.............you have to grind it down a little (not too far, or you'll take out the spot welds that hold it together) in the bottom, center of the shroud. You only need enough to clear the fan-clutch. Oh, the radiator includes a heat exchanger for a slush-bucket trans..........and the hose connections stick out some, so drop it in carefully. Once installed, everything fits nice. Got mine from 1-800-RADIATOR................Business customers will get a better deal (hint, hint re-sale lic. # required) than I did................ So far, I never see the temp. guage past the middle of the scale, even with the A/C running full blast waiting at stoplights............. I will put my old rad. in the Market place.......it just needs to be rodded out and it's all brass too.

Jimkup, is your electric fan kicking on at all?.............. Mine wasn't working for a while..........turned out I had some corrosion in the electrical connector to harness. No problems since; in fact, I think it has saved my backside with my recent Radiator dilemna..........

Well, SBC t-stats were mentioned above in reference to parts availability and temperature selections................. I am not trying to connect HR's with Sube's in any way......................but it is possible to HR a Sube............... Don't you think Bugaru's car is a HR?................. In the end, an engine is an engine; as long as we are talking about ICE's..... If the mod I suggested seems to be way out there, just ask around. I am not the first one to try it and surely not the last. If it doesn't work, go back to the stock T-stat.

You might try an old hot-rodder trick: Use a regular 195 thermostat, but drill a 1/8" hole in the flat area.............this will bring down the opening temperature about 10 degrees or so. If one doesn't do it try a second hole. That ought to make a 195 'stat act like a 175 unit...............don't drill more than two holes, or the coolant will go through to fast and winter warm-up's might be tough; along with a weak defroster as a result. I have done this with several different engines, but not with any that are computer controlled.........too low a temp in the cooling system and the ECU might "think" your engine is not warmed up and keep dumping extra fuel...........this may lead you to believe you now have more power, but in fact; you'll just use more fuel and wash-out your rings. Internal Combustion Engines need Heat to make power...........most designs are set up to operate as close to the "overheated" threshold as possible...............A Lexus V8 uses a 198* 'stat...............that's right, 198 F. This is so they can achieve an optimum operating temp. of about 202 F. Cleanest burning and most power at this temp............leaving a little room for triple-digit weather! At only 85 HP and 100 lb.ft. of torque, the EA82 won't give much more without some serious mods...................maybe it's time for a Turbo............ Otherwise, just drill a hole. When in doubt, stay stock on the 'stat............. A two-row radiator is nice and not expensive...................and the heater still works! Just my .02c 73, k6uid

Some of you may have noticed the weather lately.......rather warm here in NorCal; low 90's in some areas....................Leading to my need to run the A/C in my car. This has never been a problem, as I replaced my radiator with a new unit in 1998...............A single row, all brass radiator. It fit well and never leaked. Fast forward to NOW. Enter warm weather and A/C...............maybe a short climb up a small grade on the highway two days ago..............temp guage was 2 needle's width's from the red! I turned off the A/C immediately and backed-off the throttle. It was 2-3 miles driving at 70 mph before it came back down to "center", where it normally is. Now, I just did some major work on this car last Dec. and I don't relish spending any more time or $$ on the car (not wanting to blow head gaskets on an EA82).........I have a family to feed! So, Knowing I had a new thermostat on board and fresh belts and hoses; I felt it was time to pull the radiator and see what was going on. Keep in mind, I had no problems during the cooler months. Checking the hoses while the engine was running (at the shop where I work, level surface, idling, A/C off), I noticed that I could not hold on to the top hose; not even for a second. The lower hose I could handle for several seconds before I had to let go.............I rested the probe from a meat thermometer against the two hoses (long-wise, pointy side AWAY)...........20-25 degree difference. Not impressive. I tested them again, engine off and after waiting 20 minutes. While the measured temp was lower, the temperature spread was the same................:-\ I pulled the Radiator, only to discover it was loaded with electrolytic deposits and some debris from the thermostat change I did in Dec. Back flushing it produced little, if any debris; so it was decision time. I need this car, it's my primary source of transportation.................... Rod-out old radiator, or buy new?....................Rod-out qoute: $65 and two-day wait at the local shop. New radiator?...............Yep, I went for it. Overnight delivery, all brass and two-row construction!.................. So, it's installed and I run up the road with the A/C on, pulling a hill.......today's high was about 90................... The temp guage never left the center of the scale!! Whoo Hooo! Now, I'm not saying this is a cure-all........it isn't. Certainly other problems can lead to the same results and not indicate a bad or partially-plugged radiator. Oh, fitment. The 2-row radiator is not a perfect bolt-up...........the core sits closer to the fan (mechanical one, electric bolted on with no modification), so the shroud had to be "clearanced" at the bottom (don't take off too much, there are spot welds at the bottom holding it all together) to clear the fan clutch.........even then it drags a little on the fins as you are installing it, but bolts up and clears normally otherwise. I went 50/50 on the coolant mix and I used distilled water................coolant capacity is somewhat increased......... The real test will be the Summer heat in July........that's when we see our triple digits..................... I am satisfied so far, but will check back in if something changes or I am dissatisfied for some reason.