Erik R

Update: Took the car in for 45k service (I had a 25% off coupon). The tech said the low oil light will remain on until reset OR drive about 10 miles or so after topping up, then it should go off.

I encountered a low oil light activation after only 3k miles from oil change (Driving down a steep hill). So, I checked the oil and topped-up (7/8 quart). Now the oil light remains on. Is this a dealer reset only item, or??

Rooster2, thanks for being the test bed for this product Trans-X. I always wondered if it was just "snake oil" . I have a '06 OBW with 50k miles that has the 2 second delay when shifting from reverse to D. This only happens in cold weather, no issues during the summer months. It spent the first year of it's life as a rental before I purchased in '07 with only 13k mi. I will try this myself this coming winter and post any/all results here so we can all benefit from the experience :cool:.

It takes awhile for the water/coolant to burn off..........maybe 30 min. drive or so. The odor will remain for a bit longer. Check coolant often until you are sure. I have had this problem twice on an EA-82 before in the last 10 years..........currently, another cracked head on it. Bought another head, surfaced and P/Tested + fel-pro head set. Haven't bneen able to get my "ducks in a row" to work on it. Lazy now that I have a newer car to drive......... .

Cameron 1, That one in the pics I bought from the local Subaru dealer. I got another kit from Pick-N-Pull, just looking through all the '91-older stuff. Just remove all the same parts, (they will require thorough cleaning) and install. Don't use your old PCV valve, just buy a new one. http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/pvc_mod.pdf (I don't know why PCV is spelled pvc........I found the file elsewhere and saved it as-is.

I had a similar problem 4 years ago. This kit was the solution for me. YMMV. http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/Instsheet_hi.jpg http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/PCV_modkit_hi.jpg I have more detailed pics, if needed.

For me, I bought the extension on the Manufacturer's Warranty, not an extended warranty from a separate company. If I still have the car after 7 years, I'm on my own. I am not sure what warranty the original poster was offered, but Extending the coverage of the factory warranty seems fair enough. But, that's my own opinion

Dang.... Vid quality is low..Can anyone tell, is that a Garrett Turbo?

I recently bought an '06 Leg. OBW. Low miles too (13k). I still went for the full warranty extension.....with my luck and you never know.....My Wife helped negotiate ; told the salesman the seats were too uncomfortable for a road trip. Probably covered the cost of the warranty or close. It's your call, these cars aren't cheap, but my trade-in had 315k, so it was time to go. YMMV I still have my '87 GL for everyday beat-around and commute duty (285k).

I'm no fan of reman. axles either; but necessity dictates.......... Anyway, I have used the "kragen" ones (don't remember the brand) they lasted 5 yrs before the boots tore. The boot over the Y-pipe cat goes first:mad: . Now, I have axles from Carquest, $74.99 + tax in both of my EA-82 Sube's. I just don't like the way the put the clamps on the boots.......not tight enough, grease leaks out on the Y-pipe cat and make for a heck of a stink on a hot day . Never had a problem with the axle nuts, but who knows............. I could happen. Good Luck, whatever you decide .

Jeez, can't we just play along once in a while?? Seriously, it's OK to have fun here. Can't take life too seriously :-p .

Well, considering the remarks I made about their 2008 offerings (the GMC, dodge looking things) when I saw them; I don't think these are that bad. Humans are naturally resistant to change, or getting away from "comfort zones", especially designs. I wonder what people thought about the new Subaru's 30 yrs. or 20yrs. ago for that matter..........:-\ Time will tell the full story. Until then, I am in the market for an '07; low miles.

Ace Hardware, $12.99 + tax. Home Depot was $13.69 + tax. Good thing they were out of stock, forcing me to check the local Ace. Don't buy the 1 qt. containers, they are about $6.00 each! So far, I think it works, even if marginally. I topped off with regular fuel after the test I Passed smog with a 20 yr. old car with 280k mi........ Gotta love Sube's..........

Original results: 15mph, 1859 rpm: Measured results only: HC (PPM) 118 CO% .02 NO (PPM) 1023 25mph, 2965 rpm: HC (PPM) 55, CO% .01, NO (PPM) 1082 This was before I read about the green scrubbie pad trick in the PCV hoses just above the Valve covers. Oil consumption is down, but still 1/2 qt. for every 600 miles or so. Something is leaking onto my Y-pipe.......................

Daeron, good point. Let me find my previous test results. NV Zeno, Bi-annual inspection, November is my renewal month. Current test is only good for 60 days and I could not wait a few more months with an incomplete registration. That's why we call it the "People's Repulic of Kaliforneea" (Thanks Arnold ) DMV here is Foobar (filter mode on).

I tried everything else..............so, the Denatured alcohol went in. 3 gals. gas + 1 gal. D.A.. Results: 15 mph: MAX. HC allowed: 127 Measured: 123!! CO% max. .79, meas. .19 NO max. 825, meas. 270 at 1813 rpm 25 mph: MAX HC: 101, meas. 72 CO% max. .68, meas. .37 NO max. 764, meas. 201 at 2920 rpm. Engine has 180k + and has a head from another engine due to a porosity problem. I have to smog it again in November . Next time, more alky, less gas!! Hope this helps anyone out there who has struggled with this whole smog thing...........

Buddy, a hard "ping" when cracking the throttle could be timing is too advanced or just needs to be checked/adjusted. Also, don't forget to unplug green connector near wiper motor (if you have SPFI). Your timing will be "stuck" at 20 deg. advanced if you don't. I am going to try the denatured alcohol trick tomorrow...........I don't know if that will work if I have too much "blow-by" fumes in my pcv.... High HC's are tough to beat . Remind me why I love these old cars

Went in on the holiday weekend, still failed; even with a new cat... Still off by 150 pts on HC's.................... I guess there isn't much else to try...............When they treadmill our cars like that (they never did this when they were new cars), the fuel enrichment seems to kick in.... I got one shop to do a "sniff only" just to see if it would have passed that way and it was darn close. Passed idle, but not cruise speed. Don't forget, they test your gas cap too...........

Deja Vu all over again:eek: Been down that path...........Ditto on the recommendations for replacing timing idler bearing(s) and tensioners. As far as NO COVERS on the EA82............Best thing I ever did on my Subies, bar none! And I learned it all here:) (Thanks MilesFox)

I concur with all that has been said already. A well maintained car......... Anyway, mileage check-in: '87 gl wagon-hand me down from relative in 1998 with 197k, now has 280k, runs but A/C compressor is bad. Everything else works! '91 Loyale wagon-purchased 2yrs ago with 289k, now has 314k. Shifter is a little sloppy and needs to be smogged. Daily commute car. No problems, although the stock radio died a few months ago. Love my Soob's .

Can't say that I like the look of the '08 offerings either; but I am in the market for a newer car........... Maybe an '07...........:-\, I'm not sure yet. That 2008 grill has a Chrysler-GMC Envoy look to it .

I'll help. Check your email .

Buddy, Just so you won't feel so bad; I failed smog on mny '91 Loyale on Saturday............................Almost passed, though. Only off 200 points. I have 313K, though .

OK, This is an odd one.......And the "Bowtie" on the back of the box? GM powered? Maybe a clever disguise for some rear damage to the car........? Image is a little dark to see.....Hmmm,.........

The same thing happened to me last year; I was losing coolant and had no apparent leaks and I had coolant fouled plugs...................No, not the head gaskets! Porosity ! Pull your cylinder heads and have them pressure tested. You may have a porosity into the combustion chamber or exhaust port. Have any used head checked before installing........