Erik R

Haynes manual states that the FPR acts as a "downstream" check valve when the engine is shut down........holding the fuel pressure. Also, early models are calibrated for 14 psi idle, later ones 21 psi. I have disconnected my fuel ines a couple of times now, and have never had ANY residual fuel pressure; just small amount of fuel........makes me wonder if mine is bad.......:cornfuzz:

For some reason, it's a LOT loader when it's cold (the pump, that is). Thanks for the reassurance GD. I have a few road trips planned in the near future, so I need to get this car dialed-in for reliability.

I'll see if it makes a difference............no change so far. Torxxx, you mean P/S by "armstrong"? Been there, done that. I had a '68 Chevelle w/power steering........kept throwing the belt at the racetrack, so I drove it around with the pump off the car.......Not bad, but a real PITA in parking lots with a 3600 lb. car..... JYG, I'll look at a newer car for a replacement, if it's necessary........thanks for the tip!

Miles, I was going to suggest that...............one jug of Prestone and a gallon of purified water for .78 more...........two gallons of pre-mixed 50/50 ready to go . Ma-fia, bust out and get a new radiator and don't get another plastic/aluminum one; they are Junk. Get an all brass one..............I paid $120 for mine, 10 year warranty from 1-800 radiator.....have your core size ready when you call....... Had mine 6 years, no problems yet and no plastic tanks to break or seals to leak. Just my .02

Mine is the same way; no vacuum to that port at idle. I have been looking into this myself because I have a part-throttle surge problem.................but runs fine at WOT..... I assumed the vacuum chamber was working against a spring loaded diaphram and it would make sense to have high pressure at idle, or the engine would stumble badly if you cracked the throttle open suddenly..............also would need full pressure at (or to achieve) WOT rpm's for full fuel volume. I just want to know what pressure and volume should be present at part throttle or "cruise" rpm/load?

Any ideas on my part-throttle surge? Doesn't seem to matter if I am going up or downhill, flatland................As long as I floor it, all is good...............fuel pressure? I don't want to guess at this point, my knowledge of this FI system is limited.

I have a spare P/S pump that came with my "Japanese pull-out" engine 6 years ago. I have kept it indoors and sealed up. I checked it out today and there apears to be a magnet? in the fluid reservoir, along with metal particles............ . I checked the noisy one on my car and I didn't see a magnet, but there was a little water bubble at the bottom of the inlet screen........this can't be good............would that cause all this noise? What is the best way to flush it out and with what? ATF? Denatured alcohol?

Only cost me 78 cents..............and was 2 for one at that.....

I drained the coolant responsibly..............no animals will be harmed.

This is a good thread. It made me buy a hydrometer and check the specific gravity of my coolant. I had waaaaaaaaay too much "prestone".............It was probably 95/5 . I went to Safeway and picked up some distilled water, opened the drain and let out some coolant, topped it up with distilled and ran the engine for a few minutes to circulate the coolant. I had to do this twice before I got it down to 50/50 mix............. Oh, the heater really cranks now..........

I topped it off today, but it didn't help much. Still noisy............like a Ford P/S pump.........you can try, but they always "cavitate"; plus they are in a plastic housing............... That's what I have to deal with at my work..........newer Ford stuff.....:temper:

I still have a slight part-throttle surge..........it goes away when I mash the accelerator all the way down; but returns when I'm not accelerating............ I did change the fuel filter last month; as well as the air filter...... Yes, I checked for rags !

Chris W., I have done the same thing.............after "detailing" my car, the park lights would myteriously be lit..........especially when bumped while wiping the dust off the dash cluster.

My P/S pump was a little noisy when I got everythig back together a few weeks ago, but has gradually gotten louder in the last few days. It is full of fluid and none of the hoses leak. There is a slight leak from the housing though. The pump is original to the car, so it has 260k miles on it........... Should I worry about this or? Are these things prone to lock-up? The noise does not change when you turn the wheel and it is loudest when the engine is cold. After warm-up it quiets down some. Thanks for any advice on this

OK, so I got my car together a few weeks back. It ran , but something seemed a little off............you know that feeling if you have owned a car a long time; you know how it should perform and this was just not right.............. It would accelerate fine up to half-throttle, then it felt like I was running out of gas or spark......hard to tell, so I changed plugs, cap, rotor, wires and re-timed the engine. I even tried advancing it slightly.........no change. So as a last resort, I decided I would pull the "snorkel" off the throttle body and look at the "spray pattern" of the injector........kind of tricky; since the MAF loses air flow at this point and the engine stops...........so I thought I would pull it off real quick, shine my mag light down inside. Maybe my fuel pump was not delivering enough fuel, or maybe it was dribbling the gas out of the injector in tead of a "mist"........... So I fired it up, loosened the clamp, flashlight at the ready, slipped the snorkel off and....................... There was a rag stuffed in one side of the throttle body! I had plugged everything while the engine was apart to prevent dirt, dust and whatever from getting into the "snorkel" while all was apart................I guess it got sucked in when I first got it fired up.......................God, did I feel dumb . I though you guys might get a good laugh out of this, so....... Oh, it's running fine now..........

Wow............that was sweet! Even sounded like my '87... A good clip to show all those who doubt that Sube's get it done.

Jermdog, don't sweat the lifter racket; especially for a road trip. Mine were clacking V E R Y loudly, to the point that people would stare at me at stop lights and I was asked several times when refueling if I had a rod knock or was my engine about to blow...... I drove it that way for 16 months.........I lost power and mileage, but never reliability. I just went through the whole engine reseal, timing belts, water pump, remove cam cases, clean lash adjusters thing........it's a L O T of work to be sure, but I got a serious case of "might as well" syndrome and installed a clutch kit too..............Man, that new clutch is so smooooooth! My old one chattered. All the advice given here is spot-on. Glad to see you are enjoying your car and it's uncanny off (and on) road abilities. You won't be sorry if you do decide to tear into it; I know I learned a lot about my Sube, albeit the hard way. Well worth the effort.

Yeah Unique TII, that avatar would make a cool sticker...............and I have a '91 Geo storm that could use that on the rear glass.................

I am in the same county as SLT.........No offense taken. Most of the people you come across up there are from the Bay Area (no offense intended toward Shannonsf). They get a Yukon XL or a Ford Exploder and think they can do 65 mph in 3" of powder on the highway............with a 1/2" of ice underneath.......these are the people that are on the morning news, off on the shoulder in the ditch or flipped over. This causes all the delays and road closures........ Also, stopping in the middle of the road to put on chains, instead of pulling off to the shoulder......ugh! Sadly, I must decline the invitation to go to Tahoe...........I have a strange miss that has developed and fuel consumption is waaaaaaaaaay up.......................:madder: I thought I was done working on this car, but I guess not. Some other time? I like the idea of a local "meet and greet", maybe lunch or something...............or, as suggested in an earlier post; grab a brew someplace. Just thought it would be cool to meet a few of the Soob fans here . Cap and rotor on order for later on today, plugs already changed..

Even without a lift, I have always been waved through the chain controls......as long as I have snow tires on. I always carry chains too............

Actually Miles, I had done this before on this car. Once in '98 and again in 2000..... I don't know, I guess I just couldn't remember how I did it.....or I was lucky.............beginner's luck, maybe..... I did also look into the spark plug hole and turn the crank s l o w l y so as to see the intake valve (it is viewable this way). I noted that when the pistons were coming up, the intake was opening!!!!! Definately a bad sign............but hey, I learned a little./ Itwas worth it. The only thing that is tough is putting the nuts on the water pump studs with the fan clutch in the way........that takes some practice!

It wasn't what I thought................ I got this done yesterday and am just now reading the replies above..............good points by all, BTW :cool: I have two Haynes manuals for the Subaru, one was printed in '91; the other in '98. There are vast differences between them. The earlier one only covers the ea82 in a supplement section, but shows in great detail how to drop in the dizzy. The later printing includes the ea82 in sec. 2 b........but does not accurately describe the dizzy drop in procedure. That was the least of my problems, as I only had 60-65 lbs compression in all cylinders................I knew it would never fire that way.................so I pulled the plugs back out and put some motor oil in the cyls and checked it again.............it didn't pick up much, just a few lbs. So I got to thinking............this is a horizontally opposed four cycle engine and has to rotate 720 degrees to cycle all the way through the 4 cycles............even though I followed the book and all the timing marks lined up, I was 180 degrees out on both cams :temper: So I flopped the cams over 180 and voila.............compression!! Now I have 140 psi + in all cyls........ So, all I had to do was get my dizzy in right.................and I got fire (with a little smoke from the oil injection I did). I set the timing at 20 BTC, green connectors plugged in. Then I ran out of daylight. I hope to finish up today.........my '71 F-250 is killing me on gas $$ Thanks for all your responses. Miles, you're right; I have learned a lot (the hard way), but it was worth it .

My passenger side belt cover does not have a "notch" in the six o'clock position; only at the twelve. I will see tomorrow just what I did................. Per the manual, I may have installed my dizzy wrong too. I dropped it in when the belts were lined up............not thinking it should go in when the "degree" marks are at "0"......... Duh!

Sorry, Yes; I did use the three marks as pictured here and in the manual............I did not use the "degreed" marks which are off to the right about 45* or so (if the flywheel is stationary and not moved; otherwise, moved counter-clockwise)

Frag, no I didn't warm-up the engine first.............so I guess there is not much oil on the cylinder walls.............it never started either. In fact, it does not sound right when cranking, almost like a lawn mower engine; one-lung type sound. Skip, yes; that is how it all looked when I put the covers on..... Is it possible I put the flywhell on wrong? Can it be installed so that the timing marks are off? (on the flywheel) I haven't been back over to the shop to pull the covers back off and check to make sure I wasn't off a tooth on the cam sprockets....... You guys ever crank an engine over with the spark plugs out? That's what it sounds like with the plugs IN>>>>>