daeron

I think she is begging you for a turbocharger ;- )

bah, the original poster is long gone, probably never to return to the forum. I hate to sound like an A$$ if he should return, but hell's bells, I agree with Gloyale... this is "ending is better than mending" mentality straight out of Brave New World... Our Ford would want things this way, with the old soob going to the scrap heap... grrr.. Why bother to START looking for help when you're just gonna disregard it, is what I want to know. Sometimes I am SO, SO ashamed to call myself "American.." More often than not, as of late. Sigh.

Well I already ran all new wires to the rear channel.. so I was just wondering which wires to snip out of the plug for the stock stereo to connect to the front channel of my new one. I wired this stereo totally custom, I used the stock "constant live" line, but ran a direct chassis ground inside the dash, and ran a fresh "Switched" power cable out of the fuse panel.. so, in other words, the plug for the stock unit is just sitting back there. I want to tap into the wires for the front speakers that already exist, but i was unsure which ones they were on the plug. If anyone can post the colors of the wires I need, I'd appreciate it. Otherwise, tonight I will get off my lazy bum and search for it.

I am virtually certain that SOME of the ECUs do NOT cycle the fuel pump on until the key is turned to the "start" position, or unless the engine is running... Different Fuel Injection systems approach this differently, some (definitely SOME of the ea-82s) cycle the pump as you described Loyale, but some function like I described.. the ECU does not energize the fuel pump relay unless either A. the engine is running or B. the key is turned to the "start" position I have NEVER heard my fuel pump with the car off, unless I had my green diagnostic/timing plug connected.. I had at one point gathered that this was normal and universal on the soob FI, but then I got called out and told I was wrong about it. Last I recall, GD chimed in that he had seen some that did and some that did not; but if MY car turns the fuel pump on before cranking the engine, then my name is Mickey Mouse. :-p Anyhow, I just wanted to make that clarification.. unless someone else wants to prove me to be Mickey Mouse (a non zero possibility, to err is human) the only DEFINITIVE "test" of the fuel pump circuit is verifying it while the car is running, or using the green connectors.

Crummy pic, and I didn't get any photos of the installation process, but let me tell you, it took ALL DAY monday, nine AM to nine PM.. Who here has installed a DIN stereo with a crutchfield kit, retaining the trip computer in its stock location????? because I have heard it is SUPPOSED to be relatively pain-free. Let me tell you, if you do not have a DIN cage for your receiver, it is NOT plug and play... I DID however, manage to install a cupholder at the same time; that certainly added some complication to my installation as well. (Of course, right underneath the stereo is NOT the most *convenient* place for a cupholder, but hey, its something ) The trip computer doesnt seem to line up properly with the screw holes in the plastic pieces provided with the install kit, though... In retrospect, I decided I would have been better off building a wooden "faceplate" like Loyale2.7Turbo did, rather than spend $30 on the "kit" that didn't line up properly. (Amigo, here it would be nice for you to link a pic of your stereo install ) I can take some more detailed photos of the installation when I take it apart to plug my front speakers in... Since I was already running a box in my back seat with the rear channel speakers in it, I had a long wire pigtail for that box. I simply ran that pigtail up into the receiver, totally bypassing the rear channel speaker wires.. so now I need to use the car's existing wiring to hit the front door speakers. Which wires are those on the factory stereo harness?? When I get that information, I will take everything back apart to jack the front channel in and take more detailed photos, as well as try to line the stinking trip computer up better. By the time I actually got to fitting it all into the car, the sun had gone down so I was feeling too hasty for photographs, or even a good, careful fit.

*smacks*self*on*forehead* I know SOME models came with rear discs... and in my defense, he DID say "from brakes" somehow in his initial post (i went back and re-checked to see why the ol' reading comprehension failed me)

seriously, what junkyard did you sell it to, and what had you already replaced recently? this car didn't deserve to die yet..

LOL, you said econobox, I thought you meant Econoline, what they call the fullsize van... E-150, Econoline 150.. duh, can we say miscommoonikayshun?

Wow, I am actually glad I have rear drum brakes now.. Honestly, the drum brake setup on the soob is probably the simplest I have ever seen, I LOVE the little retainers for the shoe springs that Fuji designed for us.. My brothers are integrating it onto their racecar for quicker rear brake changes... (datsun 240Z)

the TPS can be tested in place, and I highly recommend doing so before potentially wasting the time involved in replacing it. not saying that it isn't a likely culprit, but you should test it before replacing it anyhow.. it IS a very expensive unit to buy new, and if you replace it with a junkyard unit you should test it before installing, as well. Wasn't there something that could be ground off of the bracket that made replacing the TPS possible without removing all that crap???

We are just having something of a semantic discussion about the cars here in your thread. Sorry for the way it steered your thread a little off-course Back on topic, it is good to see that the basic tune-up items are making a difference. Might I suggest you pick up some sea-foam and run it through your cylinder top end? http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm They don't seem to mention it on this link, but the best way to run it is by sucking it up into the intake manifold through a vacuum line, then letting it sit. The directions are on the can.

*I* made the mistake of not reading my haynes manual thoroughly enough when doing my rear brakes on my 2wd soob.. the haynes mnual, under torque specs lists rear hub nuts at something ridiculous like 150 ft-lbs... but then, in the text section, for the 2-wheelers, it says rear hub nuts should be at like 40 lbs or something.. unsure of the ACTUAL numbers, but my point is when I did my brakes, i tightened the living hell outta the castle nuts. THAT NIGHT one rear wheel seized on me on my drive home, and within a week the other had gone out, too. In other words, DO NOT grossly overtighten used rear wheel bearings unless you DO know the torque specs needed. At least, thats what my sooby wants. (I wound up flat-spotting the tire on the wheel that seized, and that was the ONLY set of four brand new tires I've bought in my life. me == po' b!tch)

No, you are right.. BUT.. ..the rocker's explosive appearance outside the cylinder head would indicate something mighty afoul with the valvetrain, even with a non interference engine. What cause the rocker to shoot off in that direction? probably inertia from the piston travel. how did that inertia get transferred to the rocker arm? probably a stuck valve. Hence, KABLOOEY!!! In other words, yes, they ARE non-interference engines, but that just means that the valves won't get hit if the timing belt breaks. It doesn't mean the valves are immune to the pistons, and it CERTAINLY doesn't imply that there is like, three inches of room between the piston and the valve at all times :-p

you werent getting spark because your distributor was not turning, so the crank angle sensor was not turning, so the computer wasnt telling the coil to spark.

whats different about the gen 3 heads? since I am being a lazy troll and not searching, may as well troll another question and ask, for that matter, whats the difference between the gen1s and the gen 2s, and what year did they change? a link would suffice, but I have been keeping my eyes peeled for almost a year now trying to figure this out, to no avail..

Sound t' me like you need t' git you some soupcans, boy!!

OUR e-150 never got better than 10 mpg.. but a 351 windsor will do that :-p

Wowsers!! holy cow, I haven't seen rust like that in a LOOONG time.. see, down here in S Florida, our rust comes from the ocean air, so its kinda all over, and a car that looks that bad on the underside would look worse than mine does on the top... That made me think back to my uncle's old honda accord CVCC.. he was from Jersey, and the thing looked at least as bad as that on the underside, and at least as bad as my car on the topside As nasty as my body rust is, my frame rails look b-e-a-utiful..... especially next to that! It may yet be salvageable, though... Its really hard to tell from just photographs, especially since I'm not familiar with the underbelly of a Brat in the first place.

I have tried gunking this thing, but the absurd amount of sand and oil that had built up just shook the gunk off like water off a duck's back. The cylinder heads, I spent about an hour cleaning before I concluded that I was going to have them milled (and hot-tanked.) The block, however, I cleaned first with some brake cleaner, then I stuffed some bags into the cylinders and oil.water passages and just sprayed the whole engine bay down with concentrated degreaser, scrubbed it with a brush, sprayed some more, and then a water rinse. The shortblock and crossmember got VERY clean, at least up on top.. except for where the power steering pump was mounted. I didn't remove that until I was replacing the cam cases onto the cylinder heads.. which was foolish. I had NO way of clearing the steering lines with the cam case in hand, without bumping the rockers or HLAs and getting RTV on them... Really, a good thorough engine cleaning like this only requires the removal of the intake manifold, alternator, AC compressor (just dangling, I didnt disconnect any lines) and the steering pump. I mean, yah, thats a good four hours work at least for most of us, but as many times as I have had all that stuff off the engine already, I wish I had done the scaling of the crud sooner.

Denatured alcohol is alot cheaper, and ALOT less worrisome to pour into your gas tank.. I mean, its an odd feeling putting ANYTHING that isn't petrol in there, but personally, my hands would be shaking somewhat less adding alcohol than adding xylene.

you dont KNOW how nice that 280Z is.. 40K on the chassis, CHERRY CONDITION..... a guy we know turbo'd it like, 12-15 years ago, then took it halfway apart.. and my uncle got it, and he passed it on to my dad. The old man just slapped his 2.8L motor out of his old 240 racecar into it, with a 4 bbl on it.. "easy button" and then he blew that motor up THAT car needs attention very badly, because it is SOO worth it!! it is probably one of the nicest Zs left in the country, bar none... especially if you are talking unrestored only, because she doesnt NEED any restoration. The doors close with a single finger push, and sound like brand new.

Here is a shot taken from the back side of the engine.. Now that its all back together, this is the best angle to see how clean the engine came together. TOTALLY different beast to work on, now.. and here, the rocker covers do indeed say SUBARU: Sorry to anyone on dialup for all the photos, but my original plan involved a detailed write-up, and since I forgot the camera for assembly, that has more or less faded away in my mind.. so the pics had to get posted, or they were worthless...

The milling machine cutting the head... Milled clean. Intake valves?? I'll show you intake valves!! the "small" one is out of a big block chevy, and the other one is from some sort of tractor engine or something. Its a conversation piece at the machine shop Don't make me use this... Fresh outta de hot tank!! A Tale Of Two Cylinder Heads... It was the best of quench, it was the worst of quench..... on the left is a cylinder head (DOHC) out of "an STi engine," per my friend.. no clue which one, but I had to get a shot or two of them side by side.. OKAY, there are MORE photos on the photobucket account, and I have two videos of the milling process as well. They are kinda boring and dark, but if there is any interest I can post them, too.. I just DONT BELIEVE I forgot my camera on assembly day. I haven't been so proud as I was looking at the complete, clean, reassembled longblock without the intake, EVER in my life. I wanted to get nice low angle shots of the clean rocker covers.. etc. As it was, I didn't even get a good daylight shot of the clean, milled heads!! O well. I also forgot to get a good photo of the place where the cam case O ring goes.

Allright, BUMP. Anyone who would care to watch the slideshow of all the images I uploaded to my photobucket, clicky Here are a few (okay, a bunch) of images.. there are more where these came from, if anyone wants, and I have high res versions on my PC if you would for some reason like me to email something... Proper labelling is a must when taking your engine apart.. My engine was FILTHY, look beyond the intake manifold... dirty longblock: A little nonsense, now and then, is relished by the wisest men.... NSFW!! (you can see her CAMSHAFT!!! ) THIS was the killer photo I got, illustrating how IMPOSSIBLE it is to change the headgaskets with the engine still in the car WITHOUT a ratcheting box-socket wrench to remove the rocker cover bolts!!! ESPECIALLY the driver's side, hindmost one! sorry it is such a fuzzy and dark foto, but it is what I could do: Look at the rocker covers, my friends.... THAT is some road grime, right there. More good engine teardown technique, the rocker arms and HLA's should be retained like this so you know where to put them back in. after running seafoam in my crankcase for 3,000 miles, and draining that out less than 500 miles ago, I expected to see less varnishing than this: Why should you run antifreeze instead of water? THAT is why, look at all that rust!!! Fruits of my labor, day one! I got started about six hours later than I had planned, but I still finished the tear-down by the end of day one, WOO HOO! Not TOO awful-looking.. (the old gaskets are resting on the heads in the first one) Cleaned up a tad... Cleaned firing deck, decided to machine them... A little degreaser works wonders!! Okay, more images in part 2