dj3stripes

in frustration i pulled down on the mirror and it popped out of the clamp attached to the ceiling of the car. I then realized that the starbit screw in there applied tension on the ball joint. re-mounted and walah.

So my rear view mirror is a bit impotent. The slightest bump in the road will cause it to go totally flaccid. Is there anything that can be done about this? It's terribly annoying. I never knew if there was something i could inject into the ball joint to maybe give it that extra staying power? seriously though, any suggestions?

went in like a dream, most difficult part was getting that pin on the transmission side out love changing the brake pads, so simple compared to my last car where they mounted to the caliper rather than the subaru clipping them on the rotor and having the caliper swing over the top of them. i did just the one. if the other one goes it'll be fun knowing that i can do it alone if need be

approx 118k owned for 2years now. it has a slow leak that sometimes (usually on warmer days) can be noticed by the smell inside the cab. i've always suspected rear main seals but have been told many times on this board that it's not likely. the shaking isn't terribly violent more-so than annoying as its weird at stop lights. As far as it lasting like this i was curious if it was ok to keep driving for just another day as me and pops are gonna swap the cv joint as well as replace the breakpads (squeeeeeeeeek).

it's always had vibration when in drive at a stop, slipping into neutral quells it.

ironic you mention the idle vibrations, as i've had it pretty badly this year compared to the past. I had no idea it was cv related.

My passenger front side are going bad , CLICK CLICK CLICK. But i'm not sure if i should go ahead and reaplace the driverside as well or not? If I don't adress this problem what's the final outcome of a completely failed constant velocity shaft? Just curious:banana:

more than likely the car you bumped was not insured and they didnt want to deal with it

ok, last post (i'm pretty sure) but i wanted to show pictures for those who are as timid as i was about working on my own car. EASIEST repair possible............. this lovely device is just where it was described between the timing belt housing and the oil fill. Mine was filthy, i'm not sure if this filth had anything to do with the failure but I managed to wipe away some of the build up around the area as well just for good measure, here are pictures of my bad sensor. I just hope I can now look forward to not randomly stalling/having problems restarting. Thanks for everybody's input.

well i'm not sure what a sensor is supposed to look like when it goes bad but the contacts on both ends look sparkling clean, the wires had no breaks. I didnt take it off, just unplugged it as i didnt have a replacement to put on. we replaced the fuel filter and air filter. i've attached some pictures showing how oiled up the drivers side of my engine is. we're going to power wash it off another day and check later to see where the mess is coming from

thanks for the reply. i took it to oreily's and they let me borrow their tool, very very easy to navigate. lovely P0340 camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction. I've been digging on the forums and it looks like it's gotta be replaced. can't find one here in omaha but being that this problem is intermittent i think it'll be ok to wait for it to get shipped in. is 43bux a fair price from advanced auto, or should i look elsewhere? went ahead and bought a new air filter (easy) and fuel filter (looks easy but first time doing it) just for the heck of it. I figure i'll clean the contacts on that sensor while i'm in there. Also gonna try to wipe off any oil build up and snap a few photos to show everybody

sorry to beat a dead horse i've tried searching and have become frusterated so i apologize (again) where would i plug in an OBDII tester? I've found a parts store than "loans them" but will not pull the codes for me. I'm assuming for liability....... me and my dad are going to change the fuel filter and pray it helps the random stalls that i've been having every couple of weeks between tanks of gas. I'm fairly certain it's a fuel issue as the car tries to crank with no problem other than it won't catch. aside from plugging it in, what else do i need to know about using the odb2 tester?

LCD!!! mount the radio in place of the ashtray/cig lighter!

BOO! so it happened again, same scneario except it started up after 2 attempts. Later on after i had my lunch i took it to an autozone and they claim that they haven't a single OBDII tester in town (they were all stolen). I went to leave and again it did not start. Took about 4 attempts before I got it going. CEL is still on......... it's boggling. only corelation between the two is I was doing 55MpH and slowing to a stop when it happened both times....... sigh. great bday present

thanks a million gary, whenever it perks up here in nebraska i'll get right on it. the main problem is i'll have to break out the chilton's and figure out where those parts are located under there. give me a computer and i'll fix it, give me a car, and i'm pretty brainless. in fact i've got a pc in the car with fewer problems than the car itself!

excellent information thanks a lot. How do you recommend cleaning the underside? I live in an apartment and don't have access to a garden hose, but I can take it to a touchless wash do it yourself bay. Also by parking at an apartment complex, i dont have the liberty of having my own spot. 4-600, eek.................question is, would this be a good investment on a car that has 114k miles? It's a very small leak as between oil changes the level is very slight if at all decreased, it just smells from time to time like burning oil. Also it's always trembled when stopped at a light , but i take it out of gear and it's fine, i've just dealt with it since i bought it. I really do like the car

I was trying to remember where they did free code reads, thanks.

So I'm driving on a busy road last night with about 1/8 of a tank of gas when my car just dies. I managed to pull off onto a side street with the momentum I had. It took about 5minutes but the good ole subaru finally kicked back over and I was off. The only difference between before it died and after I got it fired up was the lovely CEL was on. No knocking, no dimming of dash lights, or anything like that. I drove it today to work with the CEL on as well. I damn near ran it dry of gas before filling it back up and bam, CEL is gone. Do I need to be concerned? I don't have an OBD II to put on it (nor would I know what to do with it)...... Also I read a very inspiring post of how somebody on this board got their oil leak issue resolved. This is too big of a task for me (I think it's the rear main from what the previous owner told me) How much should I be prepared to pay to have this done at a national chain/dealer???? 95 legacy ls 4 cyl 2.2 automatic

i wanted to tell him about the switch, rats......... it got us all, think of it as a rite of passage

do you squirt the detergent directly on, or dilude it with a spray bottle? how anal would it get if the alternator gets wet (i got a new alt, so i wouldn't TRY to hit it with water, but just in case) any particular brand of dish detergent?

carputer.......

alternator took a dump on me, but it was well over six months coming. easiest fix i've done on a car in a loooooooong time. 2 bolts, 2 wires. 129bux after core charge, and it's so shiny!!!

that whole write up with every bit of detail, and no pictures!?!

i see where you're talking about (around the wheels) but what does B.G. stand for?

mine is snapped off and halfway recessed into the car. how do i remove this? i hear the motor working as if it's no longer connected to the mast but honestly i hate the radio, still it'd be nice to have AM for nasty weather situations... I don't want a whip.....