porcupine73

Did you order using your VIN#? It appears there are two sets of possible wires for this vehicle based on build date.... SOA430Q119 WIRE SET, IGNITION FOR 2000-2004 LEGACYS (for cars produced upto 2 2004) (non H6) SOA430Q123 WIRE SET, IGNITION FOR 2004-2005 LEGACYS 2.5 (for cars produced after 3 of 2004) (NON TURBO)

hehe isn't that what caused that Mars explorer probe to crash about 10 years ago?

Hi. I think they are talking about the item by the red arrow in this pic. It is at the other end of the outer tie rod end. You can just see the end of the boot in this pic; it's the best pic I have at hand that has this boot in it.

They're nearly the same; probably just a conversion/rounding difference since soob seems to always list the main value in Newton-meters and then conversions to kilogram-meters and foot-pounds(force). For '96 2.2L and 2.5L alldata says 17.3 ft-lb(f) +/- 2.1 ft-lb(f). For '00 2.5L alldata says 17.4 ft-lb(f) +/- 2.2 ft-lb(f).

hehe good point; it's the old 'I asked you for a ride, you told me how to build a spaceship'.

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com is on the east coast and has been treating me well with fast shipping and their Web site doesn't use trademotion which is a big + in my book. There are lots of Subaru dealers who sell parts online though. Some local dealers are also willing to deal down on prices with you, but not all.

^^ ditto, check the connector, mating surface to the block for cleanliness/corrosion, and mounting bolt torque for looseness. If it was overtorqued the new sensor may have cracked. Anyway I replaced mine on '00obw with a resistor instead.

The 2.5L dohc's 'phase I' had the potential internal HG exhaust blowing into coolant. These were used up to and including 1999MY, except maybe Forester got the phase II sohc in 1999MY; not sure The 2.5L sohc 'phase II' have the potential external peeping leak until up ~2003.

Yes, that's true! Subaru for the 1.0 production class world record ftw!!!! Many of the modern FWD transaxles that call for ATF are tranverse mounted, and hence no high torque situations such as with the the Subaru classic hypoid front and rear diffs.

hahahhahha Argh..sigh..I wish I had a turbo engine.

Hi. If it were just truly that ATF were put in instead of gear oil, if it were not run for too long/too much load, that is not a horrid problem. There was just a post where someone put gear oil into the auto trans...that is ba..d.d.d.d. It may have done some extra wear on the gears, etc., since ATF does not have the E.P. (extreme pressure) additives that GL-5 gear oils have because of the hypoid gear components. But if it wasn't run for too long, I would just flush out the ATF and put in fresh gear oil and not worry about it.

Try removing the sway bar link, this gives more room for the bearing housing to move down and get the axle in. If the axle wouldn't go all the way onto the diff stub shaft (so that the spring/roll pin can be installed), you might be off a 1/2 tooth or something; try rotating it ~180 deg and see if that works.

Yikes that is not good for the AT, not good at all. Gear oil has a lot of sulfur and other EP additives which will proceed to attack various parts in the AT. It does however seem like the vehicle should at least move, though maybe not for long. Yes do you get fluid flow from the cooler line?

No do not remove the axle nut to get the rotors off. Of course the caliper bracket does have to be removed. Yes sometimes they come right off and sometimes they're rough. I had some on the front of my '00obw without the 8mm holes and it took a fair amount of sledge hammering, torch heating, etc., to get them off. If you aren't planning to reuse the rotors, you can get busy on them with a sledge.

Drats I wish I'd of seen that a few months earlier! Also if you register at my.subaru.com you can view the owners manual online, for certain model years anyway. A lot of times you can find them on eBay too.

Hello; I don't recall - what brand/type spark plugs, plug wires, coil did you install?

Hi mr1t5abcde and ! First, yes, on '00obw, the fog lamps work ONLY when the low beam headlamps are illuminated. They do not work when the parking lamps are on or when the high beams are on. There is an article on endwrench.com about this fact. I too have an '00obw. I had a recent issue with ABS which turned out to be a poor ground at the power steering reservour bracket. The other stuff you posted about lights sounds odd; I don't know maybe a bad ground or blown fuse somewhere? Either of those can cause odd things in lighting.

I'm sure it is possible to spray foam in there, you mean like that foam sealant for cracks? I doubt it can withstand exhaust temps though and might smoke and/or stink....

I've had good results with large worm-drive hose clamps to stop my heat shield rattles. Granted I needed about half a dozen of them per vehicle but it seems to working well

haha yes, you should see the rest of the suspension components! The salt is brutal. I'm not going to drive '00obw in the winter anymore hoping to make it last without visible body rust. We can run studded snows here, but only between like november and march or something; else it's like a $500 ticket if you get caught with them on the freeways.

On my '00obw, which should be the same as yours, it was 32mm. Depending on what axle you get, it may or may not come with a new axle nut. I'm not really sure what the difference is, but the manual describes an olive colored nut for the rear I think and a gold colored nut for the front. I ordered a four axle nuts from subarupartsforyou.com, which they the same part # for the front and rear, but I got two gold and two olive. I'd have to see if they showed different part #'s on the bags; or maybe it really doesn't matter.

Yes, I didn't see any practicable way to drive it out from the bottom, so I removed the snorkus stuff. It is kind of tight to swing a hammer down in there. So I used the extensions with the 7/32" pin punch taped into a socket attached to the extensions to drive it out. Drive it out from the non-tapered side, drive it in the tapered side.

Yes just replace the whole axle. Subaru OEM reman (~$180) or MWE reman axle is good. I just did this job on '00obw; it is not too difficult. The write up linked above is basically what I followed. I removed the strut to bearing housing bolts and was able to get enough clearance to extract the axle. I also replaced the inner wheel bearing seal at this time. Here's some pics from when I did this job: