porcupine73

The Subaru coolant additive is relabelled holts radweld from the U.K. It costs $1.50 on up depending on how much the dealer marks it up. This stuff doesn't do much for the phase I exhaust blowing into coolant type failures. It may be more effective for the phase II external peeping leak. IIRC Subaru did retrospectively say to use this additive in all Subaru engines and it is added to all new Subaru's at the factory. Not sure if I'd use the GM pellets....since GM uses that potentially glopulous oat dexcool coolant.

Yes the oil pump can be resealed. Permatex ultra grey is something Subaru mentioned can be used instead of whatever special fujibond or threebond they specified. There is an o-ring at the pump discharge to block interface that would be replaced at this time. And the screws for the rear case that covers the rotors can be checked for loosening/backing out. If you want to rebuild it, you can get just the matched rotor set for the pump. Generally just a new pump is purchased though if the clearances are out of spec. Some have reported marvel mystery oil working to help free up the lifters.

Oh sorry about that; you're right.

He said it's "Just the rears, and the licence plate light." Do the fronts work at all, like with the virgin switch or headlamp switch?

Hm...not really sure. Maybe you could look in the rear RH/passenger side tail lamp area. Some earlier Subaru's used to have some kind of relay box in there that did some stuff with the lights. If you find such a box maybe you can try tapping it with the butt of a screwdriver or something. I'm not sure what this box does maybe it has something to do with the rear lamps. It's the black squarish box with the little orange screwdriver hole thing in it: (this is on '94 Legacy wagon)

I have one, it catches a little bit. It's homemade from some parts from mcmaster.com and a filter from Sears.

There's several possibilities. If the emergency brake was set during this time, it may be stuck. Also the caliper may be sticking or the guide and/or lock pin may be stuck. I'm assuming this has rear disc brakes. Also the rotors sometimes get really rusty from sitting and that can make it drag a little bit until to brake enough to derust it.

Are the front parking lights on too, or just the rears?

The functional hoodscoop is for the intercooler on turbo models. So the obvious choice is to swap in a turbo motor. Hm...and it makes a good excuse to go turbo!

Not sure about the tooth/groove thing. That's probably said because the tooth count on one side is something +1/2 tooth. The endwrench articles are pretty good for details. I remember when I did mine with an oem belt I wasn't 100% sure if I had the tooth counts right, but they looked really close, and it turned out to be correct.

Hi. Hm...cars101.com says [1999 Legacy] Brighton, L, and 30th Anniversary L: more horsepower and torque with 1999s "Phase II" 2.2 liter engine, smoother shifting transmissions, wide spray windshield washer, L models pre-wired for easier keyless entry installation at the dealer. GT models had standard keyless entry.

If you go to http://www.endwrench.com and click archives, then search for evap, you'll find some articles with descriptions, such as Evaporative System Diagnosis Evaporative Emissions Testing

Premium is recommended for certain engines, but not for all. The manual will state whether regular can be used when premium is recommended. Like it may say "Premium unleaded gasoline (91 octane) recommended*** Regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 AKI or greater may be used. Using regular unleaded gasoline could result in reduced engine performance. See Owner's Manual for more detailed information."

Interesting result. Typically dish soap also removes wax, so a good wax or sealer afterward is a good idea to protect the finish.

When I did timing belt on '00obw 2.5L sohc, the LH cam was snappy too. As soon as the belt was removed it rotated. The cam can't be off a full rotation; it doesn't matter if the cam is off one full rotation, or 2 or 3 or 600. The crank, of course, must be aligned properly on the mark. Ideally the crank should not be turned while the timing belt is off. Also, the crank makes two rotations per one rotation of the camshaft. New oem cam sprocket isn't that much, maybe $33 or so. Not sure why you have one metal and one plastic. Mine were both metal. Is the '99 a phase II 2.5L? I turned the LH cam back to the proper position, I think I did get it to set there, though it was very touchy. And you probably already know it is the little hash mark on the sprockets to line up, not the arrows.

Whichever you do, if that vehicle has a MAF, the diameter of the intake tube that the MAF is in must remain the same as original. Otherwise MAF reading will be incorrect.

Well you could take it out for a drive and see how it shifts and handles. Especially check for any torque bind. If it was towed with any wheels on the ground for that distance on an AT there is almost certainly damage.

Is the abs sensor on that hub reconnected properly? Is the tone wheel still in good shape on that half shaft? If so, it may be the clearance between the sensor and the tone wheel teeth. It is fairly tight clearence. I noticed on mine there are metal fragments too; I just left it the way it was. There was a note by Subaru about the abs relay sticking on some units. Hence the pump running for no reason in the middle of the night that you experienced.

Interesting. Looks like the front is supposed to be a bentley or maybe lincoln. Here's one I found on some taiwan site:

Torque converter wouldn't have necessarily been empty. The pump would definitely have started to suck air and maybe circulate that through the system. Probably lost more fluid than what the tech put back in before reving it like crazy to get it moving.

Could have been overcurrent for the fan, like does it turn freely by hand? Or something stuck in the fan like a plastic bag or anything could do it too. Or the fan motor going bad. Or wiring issue. Or fuses will sometimes blow over time, like be faulty. Esp on fans which probably have an inrush.

id be very upset too with how the tech reved it like that to get it moving. either he didn't add enough fluid, didn't let the system reprime or was just impatient.

slipping an at like that is bad because it will chew up the clutch materials fast. Plus it can result in localized overheating. If you get the at replaced by insurance, id push for a subaru rebuilt not some junkyard unit. But a sub rebuld is a few thoousand so expect them to balk.

In that case you might want to have your cap tested. I wouldn't spend that kind of money on a new cap without knowing if that's the problem. Because it could easily be something else. Another options is to have a shop smoke test the system.

Well a new gas cap would probably be the cheapeset thing to try. Make sure there is no rust or anything where the gas cap seal contacts the filler neck. Depending on your area's emissions inspection requirements, shops might have a tool to pressure test the cap, but that could cost as much as a new cap.