porcupine73

Yah that's totally messed up then. If you give the VIN # and can't get the right part that way all hope is lost.

Yah maybe something is messed up with that catalog. On another forum a guy ordered the front o2 sensor from them and he got the rear o2 sensor instead. I figure if you give the VIN# when ordering it had best be the right part.

Hm let's see.. this is my '96 this is my '94

If you have the vehicle on a level concrete surface, and the wheel is not bent or anything, you can use a short level against the wheel to determine zero camber. If you measure carefully enough with a 1/32" marked ruler you can determine the camber at least roughly, i.e. -30' or whatever you want. It takes a little trigenometry to calculate it. When they say -15' that is 15 minutes, and there are 60 minutes in 1 degree. Or some people use the harbor freight digital angle gauge.

Yah my MWE was like that too, I just bent them back. Yes I have had the easiest results undoing the strut to bearing housing bolts for axles.

Also yes I would consider changing all the hoses at this time as well for reliability. If they are the original hoses they are at least 10 years old at this point. And that bodes well for genuine Subaru hoses, they are top quality epdm rubber, and are not any more expensive than aftermarket ones if you get them from the right dealers. This would include upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hoses, coolant bypass hose, and there are a couple going through to/from the iacv and throttle body.

3/8" will be a little bit too big. 1/4" will be a little bit too small. 5/16" will work just about right without having to get some metric diameter hose. Right on, it must be bonafide fuel injection hose. Ordinary 'fuel hose' is not acceptable. We want to avoid this scenario:

On that '97, I say if you have hydraulic lash adjusters, it is non-interference. Else it is interfence. (Unless someone changed out the valvetrain at some point).

I know on endwrench there's a good article that explains how the newer enhanced evap setup works, showing all the components, schematics, etc., might have even had comparison details to the older style. Maybe go there and search archives for 'evap' it will probably come up.

doat! Yah that's a lot of cash to spend! Well let's suppose, best case scenario, your code is indeed for the duty C, you can pick that up for probably around $100 or so new, and maybe examine or have someone take a look at your transfer clutch to see if it needs any grinding, etc., then aside from some time on your part you might not be out more than a couple hundred $.

:looking around: Ok big b but if anyone asks it's your fault the kittehs, laundry, and garbage have to wait hahahehhah Indication of Failure When any on-board diagnostic item is malfunctioning, the display on the AT OIL TEMP indicator blinks immediately after the engine starts. The malfunctioning part or unit can be determined by a trouble code during on-board diagnostic operation. Problems which occurred previously can also be identified through the memory function. If the AT OIL TEMP indicator does not show a problem (although a problem is occurring), the problem can be determined by checking the performance characteristics of each sensor using the select monitor. Indicator signal is as shown in the figure. WARNING: Warning can be noticed only when the engine is initially started. hm..not sure Big b, says "Transmission flash codes are obtained by grounding terminal # 5 of Diagnosis Connector B82, a 6 pole black connector located on right side of steering column, with one of the leads (either one) from the Diagnosis Terminal. " And the diagrams look just like above. http://www.endwrench.com and search 4eat, that have some articles on there, might descirbe 4eat phase I codes better.

Hm yah not sure; sometimes the diagnosis connector does a variety of things when various pins are gounded. I have the '96 (Legacy) service manual that maybe I can check out in a bit.....have to take out the garbage and feed the kittehs and wash some towels first though.

Hey big b. I think that diagram might be for ~2000 on up soobs.

Ah ok, it might depend on which ECU you use then. Whichever ECU is used it will certainly be looking for the valves and stuff that evap setup is supposed to have.

I think grossgary did this kind of swap some time back, maybe he would know. From what I can remember it's a bit of a headache to go EGR to non EGR, and it sounds like the '97 might have had the enhanced evap setup with the canister underneath by the fuel tank instead of the older setup where it was in the engine bay.

Haven't really heard too much on the long term success of the eBay kits, but I know some people are using them. I think grossgary said he uses them in non-interference engine. I think the idea is that if something goes bad, it doesn't damage the engine. On your interference engine you have to decide how much risk you are willing to accept. If one of the idlers or the belt or tensioner or water pump goes caphooey you will probably end up wtih bent valves and maybe even dinged pistons, ie $$$$. What makes the Subaru genuine parts worth the money? In general the known good reliable consistent quality. A lot of aftermarket stuff out there is just made as cheaply as possible.

Ah haaaaa... now we are on to something. You need to read the codes, it means the TCU detected an issue on the last drive. It might be detecting faulty duty c solenoid, which would definitely cause what you experience.

Hi dakos, what year is your soob? I don't have any new ones but I"ve heard the newer ones can't be cleared just by unhooking the battery.

Are you getting a flashing AT temp light at all? It does sound like either duty c failed or stuck closed or something, or the transfer clutch stuck or welded together or the plates stuck in grooves in the drum or something. Especially if adding that much limited slip additive did nothing.

Hm looking at a diagram it looks like a part called 'service hole cover'. The diagram shows an o-ring behind that cover.

Are there any differences with the flywheel, the 4 or 8 bolt thing, or EGR?

Did the dealer check to see if there are any reflashes available for your ECU? Reflashes are pretty common for the late model soob, maybe one of them addresses cold weather starting issues? Does it make any difference if you hold the throttle say 1/4 way open or so when you try to start? Hm if it is drive by wire the ECU might override your command anyway...

If you think the noise is the engine itself, maybe it circulating oil. Was the engine oil filter changed as well? If yes was any engine oil poured into the filter or was it just put on dry?

hehe right they don't last forever. I believe the itnerval is the same as the timing belt, 105k miles or 105 months. Replacing those belts is pretty easy but you need the right sockets and such for the tensioner bolts, plus if you have rusty tensioner bolts you might need to get penetrating oil on for a few days before. Also don't overtighten especially the belt with the p/s or it will start squeaking within a day or two.

I recall seeing something about some grounds that could back out at the ECU connector or loosen up or something causing this sort of issue. I think it had to do with F27.