beataru

So, Correct me if I am wrong but, the air suspension has an Electric Compressor that Does this??? How does it work (sorry I hijacked your thread for a sec)

Just forge it and balance the crank up to 10000 and have it rev to about 9k and post a video.... is that easy enough....

So I am confused, do they have ones that will fit my Gl-10??? I looked and Its not listed.....

Welcome to usmb!!!

Ha! We should all pitch in an somehow rent a C-130 and make stops all over the uS and get to WCS10!!!! It should only cost us about 1million dollors

Porsche engines dont sound the same as a subaru, It is slightly because of their different combustion chambers but, they have 2 headers instead of one. If you were to put an unequal length header on a porsche, it would growl the nice subie sound!!!

If it breaks I will come fix it, so long as you pay for the trip Feed me, and tell me that I am awasome!!! oh and you do my entire senior high school year of homework!!!

Oh man you toataly dont know what you are talking about.... you see your so wrong about brake pads its the Green stuff wheres it at dawg you see, Ive been working on my car for oh, wait i dont work on my car I just pay someone to make it go fast for me and then tell everyone else why they are wrong about a bolt or nut and whats better for the money... hmmm come to think of it I have never lifted a finger in my life I wonder how my dad got so much money .... Is there a life without someone serving you..... :-p I wish I had free money!!!

Thats right, Because If you ignore it your cool... Right.. or wrong, oh well... I wonder who made that awasome thread... Im sure hes some badass... Oh yeah I think I just posted a pic on there of some god afful(I dont know INGLSHE) looking Impreza.............. post count.........

Anyways, What truly makes the Subaru sound that we know is the un-Even header Lengths, If you get an Equal lenth header, It will make it sound different, almost but not quite, like any other 4 banger

What the heck..... oh I get it a figure of speech.... hmmm..... I know you will look at it.. COME ON... you know you want to reply to my post...... what if I told you that I magically fixed all the rust on your car... I know you want to look..... come on now... I am trying really hard now... and This is retarded I hope I never do this again..... and my car gets 115 hp@something somethingRPM FTW!!!!!

Well, There arnt too many fuel lines to replace and its not a big deal to replace them but I do see your concearn about having to replace something that worked perfectly before, but Fuel line should, note Should, be fairly in expensive and as long as you have 1/4th a brain you can easily replace it, so Why not go for it....!!!! I would definately watch out for increased leaks, and get a list of all of the gaskets that you need and knock them all out in a one two punchlist. This of course is only if it makes your car leak! hope it helps Oh and seafoam is a DE-gunk of sorts, Its much more potent and can be used in numerous areas of the car, Degunk only works in the oil for instance...

Remember that were talking about the Japanese who thought up these things, Nothing is without a purpose on these cars!!! and they thought of everything! I take my car above redline occasionally, but evein if Im trying to go fast like say an on-ramp, Its not efficient for me to go above redline because my engine makes very little power even at 6000 its noticably weaker than at 5500! oh FYI my car when the turbo was maybe pushing(if it was at all) .3 bar its top speed was 82 MPH, PEDAL TO THE METAL... I sure hope this thing can do better once it gets back to gether!!! Oh and its not good to baby your engine! they will build up with crap! I remember when merkatroid and I were in his parents old Merc, (they are perfect drivers have never speeded) He Floored it to get by a semi and 2 huge clouds of soot shot out of the rear pipe, and then it got up and went!!! so Within reason, Give her hell!

You know, Redline doesnt always mean that the engine will tear apart if you go above it, It can also mean where the powerband drops considerably. but on these older cars, going too much above redline (Ex 1000rpm) can be hazardous!!! valve float is a concern.

Well, I have the turbo re-assembled but, I had to replace 2 of the studs in my up-pipe, Sadly I could only get one out, so I had to cut the other one flush and begin the task of drilling this thing out, but, the studs I belive are super-hardend, so, it is chewing up my "dads" bit set, It chewed up my dremel bit, and now I need to talk to my friend the machinest and I'm sure he will have an answer for me, BUT THIS CAR!!! every attempt I do to make this thing better, it fights me to the end!!! I dont know why I still love it, it has to be the digi dash, THATS IT!!!

yeah, Daeron has a preety piece!!!

OH NO NOT A FRAM, GET THAT THING OFF!! NOW QUICK YOUR ENGINE WILL DIE, heh, I had to beat all of the fram haters (and I am one of them) to it.... But you'll be fine, just dump the foamy into it and drive it for a while then change your oil and put a at least bosch quality on it.

Magnacor Makes better wires than MSD............................................................................... just Thought Id add that in, and on numerous posts I've read of people having issues with the MSD coils....

Yeah I couldnt find the time or the heart to do this for someone else, even if I go to an EJ swap, I am toataly keeping this housing!!!!!!!!!!! Well, My parts are said to be somewhere in Phoenix, so, maybe I will get them tomarrow, maybe not, but I dont think it will be running tomarrow, I still need to replace 2 studs inorder for me to bolt it up... I hope this thing spins!!!

well, I think I cleaned it off as best I can, but theres still some residue left in the housing that I cant get too, so its brake cleaner for that.... Heres some pics of every thing that I could get to with the small wheel.... I AM TOTALY GOING TO BED ITS 1:05................ man am I a dork...... EDIT: aww the pictures are terrable and unfocused, sorry bout that...

Yeah, I had no Idea that it would work, I used the oil (mobile 1 synthetic ) but he said that even WD-40 would work, and I only added more oil when It ran out, when lubricant gets metal in it, it helps grind even more....(at least with knifes it does) and then I used a polish pad on speed 5 with my white rouge polish.... but MAN is it hard to clean off, I just finished the outlet side and am still trying to clean the polish off, I want to stick it in the parts cleaner at Jonathans work but I dont want it to rust.... hmmm....

ok, well..... it is mirror Shiny, (I didnt beleive it was possible...) it looks like I chromed it, for this round of polishing I used Ryobi "4oz White Rouge Buffing Compound" HOLY CRAP.... It is almost like a wax, mabey it is a wax but I dont know, but take a look at this crap, I polised it for a little over an hour and look at what I have done.... the stuff you see in the back is the actual compound itself after it has been applied, It is extreemly difficult to remove but it was well worth it not to bad eh???? is anyone looking at this anymore................

well, my dads friend (who a machinest) told me that my port was lumpy, and after feeling it myself, i realized that it really was crappy as far as texture was, but it was shiny, so I resanded it for about an hour and then started polishing it, Jonathan told me that using oil with my abrasive buffs would actually polish very well, so after about an hour and a half heres what I got so far..... and I'm not close to done yet... Finally I get some better pictures, I think I am figuring the camera out....

Thank you very much!!!!

Well, I have been polishing with the rough compound for about 3 hours or so now, and i have decided to post my worthless pictures... If you are looking this thread up for info on porting, DO NOT GRIND the turbine area, doing so can be hazardous, I used a stiff wire brush on my dremel to remove the excess exhaust buildup and thats it. The stuff at the very end I cant get to, but it will definately be better than before.