[HTi]Savage

Ok so I tore into HTI Johnsons 5sp D/R this week and found the ring gear thrashed, pinnion gear thrashed, metal chunks everyware, and some sheetmetal like ************ stuck between the ring and pinnion. I cant figure out what the hell it is, maby a shield for a shifter fork or sheck sleeve. If any one has an idea what that crap is it would be helpfull.

U can get a die grinder and some scotch brite wheels. thats what we use at the shop I work at. also brake clean works good. careful not to take off to much material. Use the wheel for aluminum. U just need to get the dry and burned on head gasket material off, u should see a shiney finnish when done. good luck.

To check the filter, disco the line comming out to the rail. then turn the ignition on to run, if a decient amount of fuel comes out then its probably not the filter. It sounds kinda like a fuel pump. U should check the fuel pressure. Should be about 33 psi.

Or the clutch cable boot has been disloged from the fire wall, my 85 hatch does that. when the clutch is puched in, the cable flexes and it can let in engine noise. Check the boot.

Is it carb or FI.

A nother good way to clean the surfaces is to get a die grinder and some of those scotch brite wheels. that is a good way to clean. But be careful not to remove too much materal as u could create low spots in the surface, remember ur cleaning aluminum.

I'd say probably 600 bux at the most. I bought mine identical to that one for $400 it had a blown motor warped, turbo and about half a dozen other things wrong too. Give it a try, good luck.

So it lines up exactly, no cuting or grinding. It fits in. If so thats sweet Hells yea. cant wait to see the pics.

Well that depends, if u want the AWD 5 seeed D/R or the part time 5 speed D/R. The AWD's are harder to find, and there a 3.7 final drive. The part time tranny is a 3.9 final drive, just depends if u want the lower gears or not. They hold up pretty well , strong trannys.

Also check your connections on the back of the alt, for corrosion rust ect. but usually when the light comes on there is a problem in the charging circut obviously, most likely the rectifier bridge/diods. Try putting a voltmeter on the battery while its running and check to see the charging voltage. It should be atleast 14 volts, if its lower or much higher then the voltage regulator took a dump which means new alt. good luck

Also check your connections on the back of the alt, for corrosion rust ect. but usually when the light comes on there is a problem in the charging circut obviously, most likely the rectifier bridge/diods. Try putting a voltmeter on the battery while its running and check to see the charging voltage. It should be atleast 14 volts, if its lower or much higher then the voltage regulator took a dump which means new alt. good luck

Yea that bleeding procedure I got out of the Haynes book for EA82's.

Dude that is so Bad rump roast. He just ripped that yota out like nothing,Yes. I,am sure that other vids will pop up later. well see what we can find.

Whats up dude, those vids lool pretty sweet, hopefully someone got my second pit run in my RX. cant wait to see the toyota owned by Hatch Patrol.

Well if there working fine then leave them. The reason they say to bleed them LF RR RF LR is because the older subarus use a duel brake circut. If one side were to fail, u would have the other side to save your rump roast. Whatever. I've seen it work the standard way so who knows. so leav it for now but if u feel that they can be a little beter then try it the Sub way. Other than that have fun.

make sure that ur bleeding them in the proper sequence LF RR RF LR. I know its backwards from normal but thats how the book tells u to do it. did u get new pads as well, because if u did'nt u will have a long pedal. Make sure u bleed them that way and good luck.

to check ur waste gate disco the pressure line to the gate, and blow air through it with a blower and see if the linkige to the gate moves, it should move quite a bit if it dose'nt, than its probably bad. it could be a lot of things but start with that.

on the EA82's there is a little hose that runns from the intake towards the throttle body. if its leaking, water will most likeky run down the back of the head and do exactly what ur talkin about. its on the passenger side top of intake runner to the throttle body. check it out.

My car has always ran it 1/4 the way up the guage. the original t-stat was 185 degree t-stat. the high compression block runns hot. sometimes too hot. with the t-stat out it runns the same temp as with it in. However it takes a little longer to get up to operating temp, but not much longer. When it runns too hot it looses power as with any engine. any thing past half temp is too hot for my engine, thats what u have to consider with the high comp block among other things.

I am only running a single core rad. if i had the 2 core rad i would put the t-stat back in. also when winter commes around i,am puting the t-stat back in. also if i stay off the gas i have gotten 31 mpg. but iam always driving balls out its the only way to drive a sub. more power this way.

that should work dude. iam running an SPFI block with turbo heads MPFI intake and stock bost in my 87 RX. its ballsey. but it blows head gaskets. the stock gaskets cant handel the high compression and the boost. But the high compression needs lots of air densety or else it lacks power, its a pain in the rump roast but it works. Use Fel-Pro gaskets mine have worked so far. iam running with no thermostat so it runns cooler. give it a try.

thanks man, thats a trick that i've always done. see i,am having a high idle problem on my 87 RX and was testing the TPS. every thing else seems to check out. last night i seemed to fix it so i have to see. but we were wondering if the readings given by the book are wrong, it looks like they are.

whats up guy's ok so the Haynes book says that on the EA82t MPFI TPS the signel wire with the key on is supposed to read .5 volts when the throtle is closed and up to 5 volts when the throttle is full open. But on all of our cars the wire reads 4 volts when closed and 1.5 volts when open we think that that is a misprint in the book what do you guyes think.

whats up dude. u should have no problem with ur wagon. i take my 85 hatch out all the time. just air ur tires down to 15 to 20 puonds pop it in 4 low and give her hell. dude it will go like a champ. you will need to keep ur rpm,s up and keep momentum. sand can get soft so be cautious. there not hard to dig out. and turn ur heater on as ur engine temp will increase. other then that have fun and kick rump roast.

i think that AWD 5speed d/r trannys came from 87 to 89 dude