Prospeeder

It was running good and suddenly the idle drops to like 200 barley hanging on, and i look under the hood and theres a freakin vacuum hose up in the air sucking like crazy, i plug it and it make the idle steady out a tiny bit up to like 400, wheres it go to, see how it comes from that yellow valve sorta thing thats getting vacuum. I looked everywhere and i cannot find where it goes. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/Prospeeder/hose1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/Prospeeder/hose2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/Prospeeder/hose3.jpg

I replaced the gasket and silconed it with water pump sealer along with the tube that goes into it, and my cars still leaking coolant. Its dripping down onto the exhaust, its just a drip....drip.... and it turns into a decent puddle in a few minutes. i cant figure it out, the weep hole on the top is bone dry and the pump has no play in the shaft. Im pretty sure i got the gasket on perfect. Any hoses in that area that could leak slow like that

its fixed and runs well. Im so proud of myself, this is the first major repair iv done all by myself. im 16 BTW. I drove it a little, man its a quick little devil. when i first got it started the lifters were LOUD as HELL! i was scard for a minute, but they queted down as it hit operating temprature, and if blew alot of smoke for a couple minutes, but not anymore. the lifters are still audible, has very good oil pressure also. No more leaks. Its in a need of a wash desperatly, and im gonna need some help with some rust spots being fixed, one looks like its fairly deep, and will need bondo and stuff, so ill take pics of those. Some1 help me, lol, I cant get the stupid horn button on the steering wheel, WHAT AM I DOING WRONG! omg messed with it for like a 1/2 hour and gave up. Also some1 should tell me how to hold the center consol around the shifter still. Also the rear drivers door handle is loose, and it wont open from the insde....so im thinking the two are linked.

30$ id go to U PULL yard and just pocket them, sheesh

yea i need a few tips on the main seal, i had HELL getting the old one out, and the new one i got in and the middle lip on a part caught cause it went in crooked and is gushing oil, soooo i get to replace it again, but hey, it started right up on the first turn of the key, lol

its all off, im in the middle of a timing belt change, the belts are off, the drivers side one was busted, smothered in oil from im guessing the main seal, wich im also replacing.

Mmmmkay so yea i see coolant puddle underneath my waterpump, sooo i think i found the leak. theres absolutly no play in the shaft. So is it most likley the gasket, because it did sit for awhile. and quick question also, do the rear timing covers HAVE to come off?? Cause i dont wanna take the camshaft sprockets off. I wanna leave the covers OFF so can i like leave the rears there?? or will that cause a problem?

how much would they want for the pair? im curious

ah ic, yea the top one goes overflow. Hmm why would i be so low on coolant then, wierd, the thing sat for like 7 months so it could have had alot of time to slowly leak, mabye one of the petcocks or somthing....

Ok what do the hoses on the driver side of the car, the little ones that are below the radiator fill neck, theres like 3 down the side, that have no hoses in sight, and the car was really low on coolant when i got it, so what goes in them?

I got it, here it sits in my driveway. It has a few more issues than i thought orrinally, mostly interior stuff, like the seatbelts for the back seat dont clip in, theres a button missing, what does annoy me the most is the consol around the shifter wont stay in place and when u move the shifter it makes nose and moves around, anyway to make it stop? And does the tilt wheel actually LOCK anywhere besides really low where its against my legs, lol. And the clutch seems pretty stiff, is that the cable??

Ok so how tight does the crank pully bolt need to be???

oh ic, thanks, so if im going through town and its snowing like crazy going about 20 max and the roads havent been plowed ect.... what do i have it in, LO or HI? just wanna make sure i use this D/R to the best of its potential without damage.

well whats the difference between HI and LO? like power transferd to the rear wheels or what, im not 100% clear on that, iv never had a subaru, or really a 4WD vehicle myself

with the whole dual range things, whats the difference with hi and low, whats the max speed with either, do u have to be stopped for it to engauge? and with the clutch in also? i know never to use it on dry pavment

also do these cars have blow off valves of some sort?

so how tight does it have to be? Torque specs or does it matter? So the bushing is easy, thats good, cause i think thats why the little center consol is popped out of place around the shifter, lol. Also! Will some 175/70/R13 Snow tires fit on those stock subaru wheels, the "H" style wheels with little to no speedometer change? Cause i already have some of those snow tires here i would like to use instead of sellin with my mazda I pick it up Tuesday!! Im so happy

i was looking for a little sedan, i like the framless windows. Also it has a small ammount of rust on it, needs a taillight i already found. And it wil need headlights, i found one for temporary use for like 10$ but it also has a hole in it to replace the one on the car thats orange and rusty inside and has an inch of standing water, lol. And the shifter bushing must be hella worn, the shifter moves alot when in gear, how hard are those to replace, iv herd there easy but you never know, lol. Also with the Seals and what not, im not quite clear on how to service the oil pump and all that, i read the Miles fox thing many times. Also! When you take the crank pully off to do timing belts, how do you hold it in place, and how tight must it be, because on my mazda 323 the crank pully wasnt tightend enough and it completly ruined the woodruff key, keyway and crank nose and now the cars got terrible pully wobble and timing retardation and its about to all just fall apart. So i really need to know all that. I guess i could start a new thread with all them questions, lol, save space right?

Well, it doesnt run, the timing belt broke. Its got 260k on the body. But its got a rebuilt motor 25k ago, but the thing sat for a few years and then the front main started leaking, causing oil to get on the belts and weakening them and one broke. So it needs some work. The power windows and locks all work, the engine bay looks fairly clean. The thing got a new clutch, CV joints, rear driveline/differentail and all that, new tires, and a new powersteering pump about 6-7 thousand miles before the belt broke, He says hell take 100$ for it. Its also an 1987. It has one of those little splastic spoilers things on the back, its like all cracked and ************, do they just peel off? He also says the rear defroster probably doesnt work, and he cant remeber if the a/c or cruise worked.

sweet, i hope they want it for next to nothing, i want a subaru so bad

What do these things go for in ok shape. Theres one i saw, Bright red with a few large dents and oxidised paint, and a little rust. it prolly doesnt run, its coverd in leaves like it hasnt moved for awhile. but if it does what kinda price ranges are they if it does or doesnt run? i dont know any details. Its a 4 Door 4WD Turbo. Not sure on anything else, probably higher miles

or u have an air pocket in ur heater core which is possible

wow sounds exactly like what happend to my mazda. What i did (dunno if this might apply) i took off one of the heater ducts leading from the heater core and reached my hand into the heater box and pulled out as much as i could

I know all mazdas including mine have some thing where you have to hold up the handle to lock the door when you shut it, except for the back doors

so you cant do lots of nuetral drops and burn outs, DANG! Kidding though, it sounds like its pretty fragile, lol