86BRATMAN

I figure they use a spring clip similar to honduh's or something of that nature. I just can't talk my friend into letting me pull an axle to find out.

I know it is "rust free" but check up under it for yourself if you haven't already. As far as I know there aren't any big issues to be concerned with, just normal wear and tear items to be looked at.

Mom's 98 L does this when they run regular, 87 octane, in it. Whenever I get ahold of it I run a tank full of either 89 or 93 through it and it does great for a while. More than likely thats the main cause of the problem

The owners manual calls for a 20 amp fuse, I'm not sure how much it really matters though

If you are going to go through all the hassel and bs of swapping in an ea82t, look into the ej22 conversion. Makes more power, has more potential, and doesn't have the head gasket issues. And it would be about the same amount of work

I've always ran 10w30 valvoline in all of my subies, execpt one the 95 wagon 5w-30 for about 300 miles, until i kept seeing the low pressure light in the dash under spirited driving. Changed it immediately, about 1k later it spun a bearing

Were you planning on swapping the transmissions or just putting in a 3.70 rear diff with lsd? Thats bad juju, you'll bind the imortal crap out of your trans when you engage 4wd. If you want a 3.90 lsd rear diff you have two options: 1) turbo legacy from the early 90's with the lsd option 2) get a 3.70 lsd diff, and swap the lsd unit into your stock diff

The wrx's and probably most newer subes don't use roll pins at all. Anybody know what setup they have these days?

I feel you there man, I don't really want to test my harness either, for the simple fact of how long I spend sitting in our kitchen floor working on the stupid thing... I'll get brave after I install a fuel pump I guess...

The project for summer '08 is just that. The wife and I have been wanting to travel some of the country. And I have a brother in San Antonio TX, when I was there for his wedding in 05 I saw a couple in good condition along the road trip I made to get there at some side of the road lots.

the knock off, as you say, seems to be faster as well. I've looked up both of them on some of the sites from over there. On more than one occasion the blue one has out ran the red one by .6 sec and a few mph

i'd rock the hell outta that thing,

Nah all the t-legs were hydro, just crawl under your car and look at the rear diff tag and decide which route you need to go. If you are already a 5 spd car then I wouldn't really worry about the transmission because the cable tranny can hold a good amount of power

Send some of those rust free cars over here man, I can't remember the last time I've spotted a rust free older sube with my own eyes

I know this is off topic and wrong forum, anybody know if those fiberglass fenders are availible for gen 2's

3.90, you'll need the rear diff as well. And it will bolt up perfect to everything under your car. But it will have a hydrolic clutch system, and yours will have cable system. Assuming your car is a 5 speed already. If not you'll need the pedal assembly, master and slave cyls from a t leg, trans crossmember, and driveshaft from an impreza. If you are an auto you won't need the rear diff as the autos are 3.90 ratio. Also, if you plan on using wrx/t-leg header, up/down pipes you will need either a t-leg or wrx engine crossmember because they have extra space to allow these parts to clear

No problem Matt. You can repay me anytime with a nifty cool rhd swap for my brat:grin:

I think that its replacable, I'm not sure. Seems like one mechanic dad had rebuilt them at one point in time. I'm not sure what is out there for them anymore.

Just consider in this thought process that ALL ej20's made after late 94 are open deck, and can hold up to a hell storm of power, its all in the tune

You are wrong, but not by much... stock wrx injectors are 450ish, the STi Pink tops are either 655 or 565, I'm dyslexic so i'm not exactly sure what I read. And they are top feeds, which I'm about 95 percent sure is what our ej22's are. As far as stock ej22, they are in the 240 range, ej22t's are 360

If you want them to be off unless you turn them on the dtr's can be disabled by unplugging the relay on the passenger side shock tower

I've thought about the walbro external unit, since i've got the turbo and tmic and various other turbo parts for it now as well. I was looking at those when I first started researching for the swap.

Sounds like a worn bushing letting it skip around, I've had one do that on an ea81, and dad has had a few do the same on ea82 cars. We've just replaced them when they act like that

I'm not sure on forresters, but I'm about 95% they were 00 along with the entire legacy line. Any 2.5l Subaru made after 00 is a phase 2, and the only way you can tell is the cam set up. Look at the timing covers, two indentions is dohc and one is sohc. I'm not sure on legacy's but the impreza rs that has phase 2 motors, at least the first couple years did not use a maf sensor.

Lots of penitrating oil, depending on the amount of rust. To get some of the parts off my 90 donor legacy i had to go for three or four days spraying bolts with pb blast to get them to budge