Rooster2

Thanks for the advise........Rooster2, Larry

Sorry to read about your experience with 2 bad alts. I too, have read a lot of negative press about part stores selling poorly rebuilt alt rebuilds. So, it doesn't come as a big surprise that you had 2 in a row go bad. On the personal + side, I have bought rebuilt alts and starters from Autozone over the years, and experienced no problems. If it were me, I would try for a third alt from Carquest, if still under warranty, and see if the third time is the charm.

I will give the WD-40 "spray everything" approach to see if that quiets the noise. If so, then maybe the wheel bearing is okay. Brake pads and rotors were replaced last summer. I greased the slides again upon reassembly last night. I carefully looked at every component in the right front brake system, and all seems good. I am confident that the brake is not the problem.

My 99 OBW has developed a squeaky, squeaky, creaky sound coming from the passanger front corner, when the car is being driven. It is a sound that makes you think something just needs oiled. The sound is most noticeable, and loudest at slow speed, especially when braking. With power on, the sound is gone, coast and the sound is back. If slightly turning L or R, while coasting, the noise is gone. The noise is definitely a noise associated with wheel rotation. The front strut is not the source of the noise. Pressing down on the fender does not cause the noise. A buddy and I spent the evening trying to source the problem. We pulled the right front brake off, and could find nothing wrong. What we did notice is some up and down movement of the road wheel, when the front end is jacked up in the air. The rotor moves with the movement of the road wheel. Ball joint and tie rod seem good and tight. We suspect a problem with the wheel bearing. I replaced the wheel bearing last summer with a friend's help, using Harbor Freight's version of the Hub Tamer. I suspect we didn't do something right. Maybe we should have worked some more grease into the bearing, but there seemed to be a good amount of grease already in/on the bearing. We did try to tighten the big nut that holds on the wheel bearing, using a socket and a 3 foot bar, but could not tighten the nut any further. My experience with a bad wheel bearing has always been the rrrrrrrrrrr sound when turning one way or the other. I am hearing none of this sound. So, this seems odd that a wheel bearing would be the source of the squeaky, squeaky, creaky sound. The car continues to drive just fine with no looseness, or vibration in the steering, or elsewhere. Any thoughts or advise anyone?? Thanks for any advise.

A 95-98 2.2 will NOT bolt in, and plug and play in your car, as the 2000 Subie cars went to a different engine management system, as porcupine 73 described to you. Your best bet is to find a 2.5 phase 2 motor from a model year beginning 2000-2005. I am not sure about the 2005 model year. Others here will clarify the year spread, that will work in your car. Check wrecking yards where you live for prices and availability. Engines from Legacy, Impreza, and Forester will work.

Glad to hear that you got it fixed. Sounds like your trip will be remembered for a long while!

Since you just recently changed a tire, make sure that the lug nuts are tight. A loose road wheel will cause a lot of shaking.

Read where you sprayed WD-40, with no results. You need a better spray then WD-40, as it does a poor job of separating metal parts rusted together. I have found wand spray penetrating oil, or a product called PB Blaster to be much better. Your auto parts store should be able to sell you a good spray. Recommend you spray in a lot of product, then let the spray do its work during a good 24-48 hours period of time to loosen things up. Then, I would tow to see if the drums will break loose. You don't need a blow torch for heat. Use one of those small hand held propane powered torches for heat. If you don't have one, they are inexpensive to purchase. Good Luck!

Same thought.........it is prolly a bad U-Joint on the drive shaft. Not a chronic problem on Subies. Just like any other U-joint on any car with a drive shaft, they eventually wear out. Best to get it fixed soon. You don't want to have that U-joint shed its needle bearing to lock up, and physically break, causing the drive shaft to disconnect. That causes a highway break down requiring a tow truck to get you home.

Find a muffler shop that does the cut, pipe bend, weld in, type of exhaust work. Many times they are a private family owned shop. I have had this type of work done on my two Subies. New portion of pipe installed, and out the door cost of less then $50. Two years later, exhaust system still works great. The big name (chain store) muffler shops always want to install a complete exhaust system for big bucks, when only a portion of a pipe has gone bad. Recommend a cut, bend pipe, weld in, type shop if you can find one.

I would have concern about sucking in water at the air intake snorkel. If too much water gets sucked into the engine, then as discussed above, hydro-lock can occur. If that happens, then their is a good probability the engine will be destroyed. I would also have concern about water getting past the seals, and into the wheel bearings. The wheel bearing seals are good, but not designed to be water proof. With these risks, I don't think I would want to pay for repairs, should water cause problems.

I have bought reman axles for my cars from Autozone, and for the most part, have been very satisfied with their rebuilds. Yea, a lot of people complain about poor after market quality, and I am sure OEM provides better quality. Still, I have had to replace only one, and AZ has a lifetime warranty. Just save your receipt, and they will replace an axle, with no questions asked. Cost for my Outback was about $60. Like you said, labor time to replace an axle is less then an hour, so swapping out is no big deal.

Yea, bet you are right. Removing 200 lbs has to come from some where. Still, I am thinking making tinny doors is not the answer.

I too, think the latest Leggie Outback has grown too big. I currently drive a 99 OBW, that possesses the Goldi-Locks syndrome........just the right size, not too big, nor too small. It is really easy to parallel park, and maneuver in traffic. Cargo area is great for the junk that I need to carry. I went to the new car show here in Indy recently, and checked out the new Subies. I like the Impreza wagon, seems just the right size. However, in closing the driver's car door, it felt kinda light weight and flimsy, and closed making a cheap sounding " tinny clink," instead of a reassuring solid "clunk" like my Outback. I walked away thinking the doors are cheaply made, and wondered if that theme of cheapness is found elsewhere throughout the car.

Taking 3 to 30 seconds to start the motor does not sound like a fuel pump. If it were bad, it would take more cranking then that to get it started. Plus, you would have drive ability problems. How long has it been since the spark plugs were changed? New plugs can create faster starts.

No, never touched the suspension. Size 215X75X15 might fit for just a little more height, but may rub on the car. Others may be able to tell you from their experience, if this size tire rubs or not. I have read on this forum of substituting struts from perhaps a Forester, but don't remember the details. Search the archives on this forum for information.

On my 99 OBW, I put on 215X70X15 size tires. OEMs were size 205X70X15. This raises the Outback almost an inch to make it look more aggressive. Still looks and drives as before, but has a bit more ground clearance. The larger tires do not rub on the car. It is cost effective, if you need new tires, and does not change mpg.

I suggest using some white lithium grease. You can buy it in a spray can with a wand. That is what I use on door latches.

Look at the gas fuel tank neck, where the gas hose fills your tank. Any rust on the filler pipe, as it extends to the tank? If badly rusted, this could cause your problem.

Glad to hear your success in changing your plugs. I have done that same work on my 99 OBW, so I know how awful changing 4 spark plugs can be. It has to be one of the worst jobs, when working on a Subie. I know your pain. Again, congrats on successfully changing the plugs.

Wrap your chewed up boot with Seran Wrap food film. The film clings to itself, and does a good job of keeping grease inside the boot.

Any CEL codes available to pull? If no response to turning the key, I would check to see if the battery cables are good and clean on the terminals.

Thanks for all the good advise. The weather is turning back to winter again, so I will wait for a warmer and dryer day to revisit the connector. I have it working again, but will use advise given to get a better connection at a later date.

Thanks, I agree with your assessment. Unfortunately, the connector is such that the female side is a plug that pushes up inside a recessed housing on the sensor. Inside the sensor is four spades, that the female side pushes onto to complete the connection. There just isn't the option of cutting off the connector, and installing a new and different connector.

It is a temp sensor connector on a car that is not a Subaru. However, my question is generic, so I knew you guys would have good advise. Thanks!