Rooster2

Can't remember if your 2.5 would have a PCV valve? If so, if it is bad, it can bring down gas millage. It might help to add a can of injector cleaner to the gas tank. Put in the good stuff that costs about $6 a can. Recommend Chevron Techron. Clean injectors help gas millage too.

Another success story with JB Weld. The product is amazing, but really dependent on how clean you can get the surface you adhere it to. Sounds like you cleaned off the oil really well to get it to stick. I would suggest you coat the area with another round of JB Weld. It can't hurt, and maybe add some more support against oil pressure. Using JB, I wouldn't be surprised if you have created a permanent fix against the oil leak.

Add a snorkel to ford streams??

Since you live in the frozen north, is it possible that you put water in your washer reservoir last summer? If so, water in there now has prolly frozen at some time, and ruined the pump. I learned this lesson the hard way years back. Replace the pump is pretty easy, and doesn't cost much. Sometimes a pump from a parts house will fit. I once got a Ford pump to fit my VW. It fit perfectly. Cost lots less then going to the dealer.

Last night on Christmas, my 99 OBW decided to throw a CEL. I haven't pulled a code to know what it is trying to tell me. Also, the heater started to not throw much heat, while on a 20 minute trip around town. That scares me, as an early sign of a bad HG. However, the temp gauge reads normal. Also, it is starting to leak oil prolly from the baffle plate. Oil now drips on the exhaust pipe to create a stinky smell. I think a grench has grabbed control of my Subie.

Yes, that is very possible too. I missed that possibility.

Hitting the curb with that wheel at speed could cause a bent wheel or suspension parts bent.

I own both a 98 and 99 OBWs. My 98 does not have the external filter, my 99 does have the external filter. Pretty sure that 99 was the first year for the external filter. Suggest you do the drain and fill of ATF 3 times as others have suggested. Drive at least 10 minutes between drain and fills. IMO, the brand of ATF doesn't make any difference. Just use one that says it is the Dextron type. I don't recommend dropping the pan to change the screen filter. I have never seen one clogged up. So, it is a waste of time dropping the pan. Besides, dropping the pan creates a problem of possibly creating an ATF leak at the pan, as the pans gasket has a tendency to leak afterwards. I wrote the original thread on using Trans-X to fix "Delayed Forward Engagement" problem. Cars with that problem don't shift properly from R to D. It seems to affect only 99 and 00 model auto trannys that were built with a lazy seal. Trans-X makes that seal perform properly. I don't know if Trans-X will improve the 1 to 2 up shift. Lucas or other additive manufactures may have a better product to address your up shift problem. I think I would change the ATF 3 times, and evaluate if the new and fresh ATF has improved the 1 to 2 up shift, before considering additives. Also, be aware that the dip stick to check ATF level is graduated so that low to full is only about a pint quantity of fluid. Because of this, it is very easy to over fill the trany by pouring in too much ATF. Good luck, and let us know how you are doing with this project.

I am thinking the heat lamp vaporized some of the Evapo-Rust. The molecules found there way to the rust to loosen up the pin.

I agree that it is worth about a $1,000. It is just not in good enough condition to be worth more. The slight body damage doesn't look like much to worry about. I doubt that there was any mechanical damage done with that minor fender bender. Looks like it ran into a mail box, or something about the same size to cause the damage. As others have said, it is the rust to the underside of the car that causes problems to contend with from time to time. If you live near a city with Craig's List, I would look there for a good used car from private owner. Good Luck!!

I think your car has a PCV valve. Have you cleaned or replaced it lately??

I guess you are saying what has been posted many times.......avoid the cheapie wire sets. They don't hold up, and when they don't hold up, they cause misfires.

If it is a bad CV joint, you can drive many more miles before replacement. It will just simply get louder as time and miles march on.

If the Main Bearings are wearing, I would add a can of STP to thicken the oil to increase oil pressure. Using thicker oil like 10W-40W, or 20-50W oil could also help. At 325K miles, your engine may be nearing the end of its life. I don't think I would put much time, and or money into an engine that has really high miles. Dropping in a lower millage engine may also make some sense, if the low oil pressure is due to excessive engine wear.

I have used both green slime and fix-a-flat to seal a leak. Sometimes it works, but use both products sparingly. If you use a lot, you tire/wheel will go out of balance. Usually, the leak with an alloy wheel is at the tire bead. This can be fixed by going to a tire store, take the tire off the rim, then sand down or clean off the corrosion that forms. There is also some black goopie stuff that can be applied to the edge of the rim, that will help the tire seal good against the rim.

Sounds like you got fortunate. I assume you replaced the wheel bearing as well.

Glad to see that USMB is back. Looks nice.......had concerns that board had been hacked, or worse. Logging onto USMB makes my day. Please.......next time, let us know in advance that the forum will be down for repairs or improvements.

My 99 OBW just started leaking oil pretty badly. I think some is coming from the front seal, and maybe some from rear separator. I don't have the time and facilities to do this work myself. Anyone in the Indy out there interested in making some money doing this work, or can recommend someone in Indianapolis? I have a complete TB kit with idlers, water pump etc. It may be a good time to do it all at one time.

Similar story...........my 99 OBW last Sprint drove just fine in the city, but on the highway, the steering was squirley. Any bump or deviation in the road way would make the car dart slightly to one side or the other. I had to slow down to about 50 mph to stay in my lane, and drove it that way for 125 miles to get it home. At my mechanic's shop, the trouble was easy to diagnose. The right front drive shaft had sheared off about three inches from the end at the road wheel end. I never knew a half shaft could break like that into two pieces. It didn't make any weird noises at all. Replace the half shaft, and all is well. No problem with torque bind.

Yea, most important part, is no one got hurt. You may have the start of an off road vehicle. Cut off the top, add a roll bar or maybe two roll bars, add a lift kit, big tires, and go have fun.

Congrats! I always like hearing a happy ending, when a nasty problem is solved. Evapo-rust must be a great product. Where can it be bought??

LOL LOL................Thanks! Larry (Rooster2)

Good ideas, wish we had some of your Hawaiian weather in Indiana right now. It would make it a lot easier doing this work.

Thanks, I will take a look tomorrow.

My 98 had the 2.5 w/AT. Transplanted 95 with 2.2 came out of a car with AT, so no issue with EGR kicking on a CEL. Can you describe where to find the IAC valve? I am not familiar with that valve, or even where to look for it under the hood. I guess when I find it, it will be evident what to rotate.