Gloyale

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I met guy up on Mary's Peak last year in an 88 GL wagon. He had used 2 Samurui front driveshafts for rear axles. Welded the yolks to cut down CV cups. Still leaves the stubs on the rear diff to break? Hmmm???maybe welded and mated to inner cups and a rear diff carrier from a 95+ model with solid, inserting stubs? (female diff)

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You are incorrect. 90-94 Legacies, MT = 4.11 final drive. 90,91 Legacies, AT = 4.11 final drive 92-94 Leagcies, AT = 3.9 final drive. from 95 on, your info is correct. To the OP in this thread. The car would have been 3.7 originally, so if it's 4.11 now, the diff has already been swapped.

Theres a few different IAC's that all look similar. 90-MT = 2 wire. Only in 90 manual legacies. Annoying. 90 AT, and 91-94 = 3 wire with oval port. 95 EJ22 = 3 wire. some oval port, some round 96+ EJ22 = 3 wire, round port 96+ EJ25D = 3 wire, oval port. all 3 wire are electrically compatible......match port to the opening on your intake.

25D heads the valves are closer to the piston tops, and at a steeper angle. That's why they hit pistons. Additionally, they can be valve to valve interference too, if the IN. and EX. Cams get out of time. 22E heads have a shallower angle, and a larger dome, so they sit higher from the poston. They seem to be a bit closer, and certainly not any further apart than the 25D heads. I'm thinking it's time to slap a head on a block with some clay on the cylinder top, all the way at TDC and then rotate cam to open valves. Remove head and inspect clay impression to gauge clearance.

90-94 Model 2.2, regardless of trans....do not have EGR. EJ18 engines do. 95 Auto EJ22 = EGR 96-98 Auto EJ22 = Possibly? Probably??? although I swear I've seen them without. Maybe imprezas don't? IDK 99+ EJ22 is phase II. Different intake entirely....some EGR, some not. IDK details.

I'm guessing injectors too. I had trouble with an EA82T trying to run larger injectors without any retuning. Had to go back to the stockers to get it to run right with stock ECU. Through the Franky aspect and the cams in the mix......you need a tune. Just a thought though......check what your Coolant Temp Sensor is reading cold and fully warmed up. If that is off, it can do strange stuff to fuel maps.

It's the axle. He said it's clicking. The wobble is as the joint rotates, the balls are getting stuck roughly rolling in there tracks. This tries to keep the cv locked, and affects the angle of the wheel. since it can't wobble up and down (change camber), it rocks side to side.

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You are spot on. The turbo heads crack in this area VERY commonly. They can be repaired, but they ussually crack again later. I had a set welded up, put them on an engine and ran it about 20K miles before a rod bearing gave out. when I pulled the heads, only one was cracked!! The "fixed" Gen 3 heads exist. But they aren't really fixed. Slightly less prone to both types of cracks, but definately still not "fixed" I'd say about 80%+ of the SPFI heads of any gen, and 100% of the Turbo heads have the Between the valves cracks......mostly not an issue though. The turbo heads however, even "Gen 3" ones, see about a 90% cracked rate in the exhaust web. Most all of these leak some coolant. Athough I've seen many good running cars, that just barely seep, and have run a long time just topping off coolant. I don't think it's very good for the turbocharger though:( hopefully the OP of this thread just had residual water and oil in the exhaust pipe still.

It's not great...but not too bad either. I lived in Wisconsin for 5yrs.......and had a couple of the rustiest subarus on the road. That Impreza isn't that bad. one thing to check though is the rear subframe where the rear lateral links bolt in. Make sure that area isn't rusting through.

It depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to keep it stock height, and daily drive it.....and your gonna leave the EA81T in it......then leave the 3AT trans. Espescially if you care at all about the collector value of it. A turbo brat in anything like original condition could be worth few coin if kept stock and in good condition. If you want to wheel it, get a D/R 5spd. But if your gonna do that, don't waste that EA81t in there.....get a N/A EA81 or put an EJ in it. If you don't want to "wheel" but would really like a stick....get a S/R five speed from turbo EA82 car.....3.7 ratio, great gas mileage. Don't bother with the 4spd. They have as many if not more issues than the 3AT.

This isn't true. on EA81's and 2wd EA82's the back brakes being out of adjustment will creat very long pedal travel before "catching" If you give it a few quick pumps it stiffens up, because the rear shoes don't fully retract between each stroke. I know that a similar feeling can be had from a spongy master....but in that case, the brakes will initially feel weak.....not just further down the the pedal travel. To the OP, do yourself a big favor.....if you have adjustable brakes....adjust them. If you have self adjusting (ea82 4wd) then remove the drums and see how much pad is left, and make sure the selfadjuster isn't stuck. If the brakes feel good, but the pedal is low, it's probably not the master.

The hardlines on the rack are the same as brake line. 10mm head, whatever that works out to for line size. same as all your brake lines. The Hard supply and return lines from and back to the pump are not the same though. if that's what's leaking you'll need direct replacements, as they don't have a standard flare, it's a lip with an O-ring.

Combine this: With this: I have a double version of one of these, screwed down to the flat spot on the dash.

Are you sure you don't have an EA82? The only EA81's in 1988 would be a hatchback. If you have a wagon or sedan, you definately have an EA82, which none of the Brat front end stuff would work. Got pics?

You must remove the tailshaft section to remove the Front pinion. You need to measure and shim properly to correctly position the pinion fore/aft in the case. It will probably work just slapping it in, but trouble could lie 10k miles down the road. It's not super easy. ***when removing the pinion shaft, make sure you don't let the spacer/washer that is behind the transfer gear drop into the pan....if you do....fish it out. You will need it. This is the selectable part that sets the position of the transfer gear. If you leave it out, you will have a shredded transfer hub.

I believe the black connector is for "lo" light. The other wires are all in the white 6 pin connector. Reverse lights are Green/white and green/blue??? wires IIRC. 4wd wires are red/white and red. The other 2 are neutral switch. You will need to connect these wire to the interior where the 3AT shifter was plugged in. All the wiring is there. You may not have a lo light in your dash. And If you leave the bulb in it the "N" light will be on when you are in neutral.

Sourced from an Automatic, California car possibly? IDK, they aren't on most models with EJ22.

I am not sure this is true. Follow me here. The EJ25D pistons have a dish, about 4-5mm deep, across almost the entire piston top. Deeper dish than EJ22 pistons. AND, the EJ25D pistons are larger diameter than the EJ22 piston. Why would a EJ25D bottom end, with EJ22 heads on it be interference?

Pooparu's hatch?

Those Spectre flilters suck. Even the K+N ones are not so good for engine. "high flow" = poor filtration. Dust and dirt will get in and waer out the rings....then the milage will really suck. You are way better off with a new paper filter. Change your 02 sensor. Biggest contributor to mileage in my opinion.

1= reverse light 2= Nuetral switch 3=4wd light 4=lowrange light I would need to know what car this is going into to tell you where to wire things up.