Gloyale

red/white wire from alt to the charge light has a fault.

That's perfect. Harder bolts are actually more brittle, and will break rather than bend. Also they'll be more likely to rip threads out of the body nuts. 8.8 is as hard as you want. Better to bend, than break.

From the chart at gearhack. Same # for both trans. US Impreza EJ22E (AWD) MY96 TY752VABBA 3.9 ratio US Legacy Outback MY95-96 TY752VABBA 4.11 ratio

You could be just cooking your center diff. It could be gone and be completely open now. But the chart has been wrong. there are 2 of the same trans #s listed for diffrent models with different ratios. Best thing to do is to count teeth on the ring gear. it can be done through the drain plug hole.

Double check the main engine harness connectors, and also the ground bolt on hte intake. Weird things happen when you turn the key on without those connectors being 100%

You could also use one from another vehichle. Legacies, the valve is mounted up in the engine bay, on the passenger strut tower. it bassically just has 2 lines in, and 2 lines out.....you can add it in the lines anywhere. It doesn't have to be just like the EA setup.

That's why it's easier for you. Break an axle, build another. Most people would find it easier to replace with an off the shelf option. EA rear axles are cheap at junkyards and seldom break in stock rigs. All though, the hybrid axle is arguably the stronger setup.

my understanding is this Halves the resitance of each item in parallel. A= gauge resistance B= correction resitance C= resitance at gauge/display value (A/2)+(B/2)=C

NAh.......overthinking it. People swap carriers all the time. It's easy. Making hybid axles is a mess, and next time you need an axle, you'll need to another hybrid axle. either wll work.

this is correct. No mention of adding 12v. add a wire between the sender and gauge (think "T"), then that wire goes to ground. This means there are 2 paths to ground for the gauge. This halves the total resistance

The button cluster was probably swithced out for a Non-AC one. The non-AC ones don't have the wiring to activate the A/C. If the vent button has only one position, you've got a Non-AC one. If the Vent button has 2 positions, plus off, you've got the right one, but the wrong actual plastic button. (correct would say AC/MAX) A/C should run in "Vent" and "defrost" positions.

Needs to have the oil pump resealed. It's gertting air bubbles into the oilsupply....that's why they tick. EJ swap will require an adapter and redrilled flywheel. Plus exhaust, Radiator fans, and of course stripping down and installing the EJ harness. 2.5 from an outback will work, but probably not a good choice. That engine is known for headgasket and rod bearing issues. 2.2 would be a much better choice.

This is a normal experience for the EA82. They changed the PCV system slightly to help, but still happens. It's the nature of the "Flat" engine. Sweeping right turns, oil slings up into the Valve covers, and into the "bottoms" of the cylinders. This washes the cylinder walls with oil, and the PCV system can suck oil. If you have loose PCV hoses, a bad PCV, or some amount of blowby from worn rings, then it can be worse. Make sure your PCV system is good, don't overfill the engine oil..........then don't worry.

Nope. SVX is a larger bolt pattern. 5 x 114 vs. 5x100 for all other subaru.

Custom axles (mix n match cups) Or swap the EA carrier into the 4.11. You will also need to swap to the EA input flange. The '01 diff has a larger flange won't fit your driveshaft.

Uh.... Resitor hooked to 12v? That's not right. Resistor should be parallel to the sender, to ground. Works best if done near the engine. Easy way is to simply strip some insulation back on the Temp sender wire, solder on another pigtail. Solder the resistor inline between that pigtail and ground to intake.

PM sent

??? Replaced seal, but did you replace the bearing? Wobbly shaft will kill a new seal.

Perhaps you have a Loyale not a Legacy? All Subaru 5 lug are the same except SVX and late STI's. Everything else is 5x100 Wheel diameter must be adaquate for brakes......so a 14" wheel won't fit on a newer car that came with 15" or 16" rims......won't clear the brakes. But 98 wheels on a 90 should work fine, if they are both Legacies.

No, they will fit exactly. It's the 90-94 Legos that have the smaller bolt pattern. At any rate, that's probably overkill. I would simply go to the junkyard and get a whole set off an Outback used.

If your heater core is working really well the water returning from it could be signifigantly cooler than water in coming from the rad. Heater core returns to right before the Thermostat(heater core is also the warm up bypass) Here's my theory: Cool water returns from heater core, somewhat closes the stat. Flow through the radiator is reduced. Engine runs a bit hotter, till the Stat opens up again....the whole dance balances back out, but at a slightly higher temp. Heater off = Thermostat opens at normal engine temp. Heater on = Thermostat opens at higher engine temp, because bypass water is cooling off stat.....overall temp has to be higher to open to radiator. I've seen this happen before.....usually means that the T-stat is not a Subaru OEM. All other things functioning well, this shouldn't make more than a few degrees difference. If the car is overheating, there is another issue.

Stick with the EA81 radiator. It should be all brass, with larger passages than the EJ rads (aluminum/plastic) It will work great. Again, flex hose with 1 1/4" at one end, 1 1/2" at the other.

Any chance of overpressurizing? My EA81 sedan the power steering is off the chain.....I mean it's too powerful, and there is no "neutral" feeling. One finger flick will spin the wheel to full lock. It's twitchy/touchy, and it's put me in the ditch on my way home (gravel roads) because there is no centering action. It reminds me of one of those old style racing video games where you spin the wheel continually round and round when you want to turn. Press? what do you think?

Get some 96-99 Outback struts. They are taller, and will fit the tire perfect.

Valves are hydraulic. No adjustment. Replace the belt as soon as you can. Although, the engine is non-interference so not too bad if it breaks. But yeah, reseal the Cams, Crank, oil pump o-ring, Valve covers, and the o-rings on the cam end cap(pass side, rear) and cam extension(sensor mount part, drivers front) Water pump, Timing belt, and Idlers get all new.