Gloyale

Ditch the anti-afterburn. Plug the big port off the EGR that goes to it. Also, I'm seeing a blue "T" fitting that should have a cap. One thing to help from getting confused, is you aren't actually working with Vacuum lines. O.K. a few are, but mostly the issue is with the Air Bleed lines for the carb. Neither of them should be connected to a vacuum source. The air control valve has a vac line to it, to operate a valve.....but vacuum doesn't actually pull "through" it to the air bleeds. You see? The Air bleeds just need to be open to atmosphere, through an orifice. Try bypassing that air temp vavle mounted to the top of the carb. I'll see if I can get some better explanation.

Bad Oil Pressure sender. Happens alot... I doubt you actually have a real Oil Pressure issues.

96-98 Leagcy and IIRC impreza too have two, o2 bungs in the front CAT. One upstream of the Honeycomb, the other downstream.

Yeah, you need an EA starter. The mounting hole in the D/R is larger diameter than the EJ. The starter isn't centering correctly in the hole. EA manual starter will work (Single or Dual range)

I charge $100 labor plus parts.* *impossibly stuck bearings/damaged hubs add $50. They get eaiser once you've done dozens:cool:

Why not just hook to the "charge" light in the dash?

Find the right hoses, and no adaption nessecary. Order a 12" flex hose for the top, and a 18" for the bottom. 1-1/4 at one end, 1-1/2 at the other. Or search for a preformed that will work.

You are correct. My mistake. That circuit does have 12v constant in the EJ harness. I wire it in switched with the relays in conversions. but either way.....it's not the charge light wire. that's the other one. Ussually B/w

You've got the oddball year with the round connector. The disty's are the same, just the connectors are different. easiest thing to do would be to install you're old disty in the new engine. Or you could scavenge a harness side connector from a junkyard car, and splice it into you're harness.....so you can use the more common square plug type.

Power steering lines leaking? They are in the same area.

Rubber seal where the cable threads into the trans is possibly shot. Oil wicking it's way up the cable creates drag in the housing. I'd take the cable out of trans, and see if it's wet in there.

I was reffering to the piece between the MAF and Throttle body. That in the pic there is a Water seperator. Highly effective too. I watched a bone stock 97-ish Legacy cross though a 3 feet deep channel of water. It was a short, but deep crossing........the guy punched it into the water, submarined the front end, then popped back up and blasted through. I can only assume that water seperator held enough water for that short crossing. not recommended, but it worked.

You've got it wrong. Yellow wire doesn't go to the Red/white. EJ charge light wire = Black/White EA charge light wire = White/red Yellow wire is signal voltage, not charge light. Yellow can be hooked to the BW wire in the EA harness, or to any other IG. switched power. In factory EJ harness, that yellow wire is tied to Ig. switched power (same circuit as the Coil and Transitor)

Excellent finding. Glad you got it solved. Come to think of it, I've always adapted EJ cruise computers with my EJ swaps. I've never tried to interface EA cruise to an EJ computer. Props

Could be the throwout fork bending/breaking

The center portion of those plastic screw/clips can be simply pushed up and out of the clip.

You'll find yourself using 3rd and 4th where you used to be in 5th. Which isn't so bad as it sounds, actually.....Because you'll be going faster per revolution, so it's just a gearing adjustment. Ea82 with 5spd D/R on 27" tires, you're speedo will read 55 when you are actually doing 65. At that speed in 4th gear you'll be turning about 3000k rpms. Right about the same rpm's or even a bit less as you would have been turning in 5th with the stock sized tires. So freeway driving isn't that bad. It's accelerating from a stop, and going up hills where you'll notice the difference, and have to drop into lower gears. Like Woods said...Don't be affraid to let'r rev out.....just keep it at a minimum throttle to hold rpms, not floored.

It didn't dawn on me until just as the pics started loading that this was bad news. Sucks.........hopefully windshield frame isn't too bad.

Then it's possible that the first guy to put sealer there caused the valve tick by getting sealant goop into the HLAs.

Just so you understand, this has been covered many times before. Everyone (including myself back in the day) thinks/thought that he's gonna be the one who builds the magic EA82T that won't overheat, crack heads, and blow itself apart. You won't be. You'll end up with a very expensive, melted engine. Then you'll either hate subarus or be ready for an EJ20g. But you will have alot less money. Just the title of this thread is an Oxymoron I'm not an alll out EA82 hater. They are a great, free revving engine in stock form. And I do understand wanting to keep a car stock for collecting reasons. If you really want to keep the EA82T, just rebuild it to stock and don't modify it (maybe an intercooler) Definately don't up the boost or put a bigger turbo. If you Mod it, for more HP.....the longevity will become very short. Less than 10k miles. Maybe less than 1k miles.

Holy old threads Batman!

I've heard this, but never been able to confirm. I can't find any differences between any of the single port EJ22 heads I've examined. Although I didn't compare Cams in any excact way, they just look the same. Do you or anyone else have some confirmation on the interference aspect? To me it seems they didn't change til the Phase II engines in 99-2001

Do you mean the Filter and snorkus? Or are you talking about the intake manifold and valve ports? Sounds like you matched your intake to the heads? I ported my heads very lightly, basically just de-burred the inside of the cast passages, and I'm very happy? Elaborate?

96 2.2 is non-interference.

Gear ratio? The 2.5 ECU is a good thought. Might try that.