Gloyale

Unless they milled off LOTS of material the tining wil be fine. Bigger issue is with milled heads on a subie is the intake manifold bolt holes. .020-.030 of an inch per side is about max before you have to hog out the intkae holes. But resurfacing only requires removal of .004-.005 ussually.

I've noticed the same thing in all my subies. Go 5 miles through a speedo test section and the Odometer reads 5.1 or 5.2 . Even my legacy does this. I think they engineer speedometers to read slightly higher, rather than slightly lower, than you're actual speed. So you don't *accidentaly* speed due to an off speedometer. My GLs speedo is so sticky,(slow from 70 to 50, speedo holds for 3-7 seconds then drops quick to 50)But even once it steadys it reads 2-3 MPH faster than radar at highway speeds. Legacy speedo not sticky, but still reads 2-3 fast. Speed reading high=distance reading high.

That thread is about an RX, Turbo, Nothing like you're Carb setup, Intake wise. And none of the links seems to work with any pictures? What you are asking about is the tube that hangs down and just ends, behind the alternator. It's some part of the ASV/PCV/EGR setup. It's supposed to be there. There should even be a clip that holds it to the tube next to it that goes to the valvecover.

So are you saying you can get it running with nothing at all attached to the throttle body? No tube from the MAF? I would think it would die with no Maf signal? Anyhow. The AAV supplies Auxillary Air for warm-up idle. Placing you're hand over the throttle body won't stop air from passing through the AAV into the intake. For the test you're trying, you'd need to plug the AAV hose. Confusing, but hang in there, you'll track it down. We'll help

Update. Upon further review, it seems all 85 had pins.

I've had several Exhaust port cracked heads repaired. Cost was $60 bucks per head. If we're talking about a single port intake head, then perhaps just scrap. But if it's a Turbo, Dual port head, don't scrap it. There are fewer and fewer of these heads left. And most of them are cracked or ready to crack. New ones are almost non existant and terribly expensive. Contact a machine shop that does racing motors. Have them refer you to whoever welds there aluminum heads.

Are you talking little skinny Vac hose? or Larger 5/8" PCV hoses. If it's the later, then yes, there should be largish hoses on the drivers side. One should T and go to both the PCV, and also the valve cover. There is another on that just hangs and is open at the end runs next to the one to the valve cover, but then just stops.

Here in Wisconsin, the last registered owner is the only one who can file for a lost Title. Unless you are a land owner, and someone abandons a car on you're property. Then there is a process for filling an abandoned property claim. Make the guy who suppposedly owns the car apply for a replacement title. He is just being Lazy or there is something up if he won't do it. Don't take the car without a title. Even if you part it out, a J-Yard won't take the hulk when you're done without a title. You'll end up with some permanent lawn rust.

Have you checked the auxillary air valve? The tube comes off the bottom of the "subaru Turbo" cast piece, goes to the AAV, then goes in top the side of the throttle body. If you unbolt the AAV from the thermostat housing, you should be able to verify if it is sticking closed. If it is sticking closed it could be causeing low idle/stalling until warm. It should be open when the engine is cold and closed warm. Inspect you're intake boot for cracks and leaks as welll. Also have you tried simply raising the idle. There is an idle adjust screw. It is in a receessed hole in the back portion of the throttle body. You can see it if you look straight down from over the throttle bore. It's behind it, about 3/8" dia. Flathead screw in a recessed hole. IIRC screwing it in lowers idle, screwing it out Raises.

Sounds great.

1/2"-3/4" inch??? not the breather hose, it's skinny like vaccum line, and should end up near the top of the trans. I think you are looking at the drain hose for the Air Conditioning? It comes through the floor and hangs very near the frame on the passenger side. Sound right?

I've got a set of turbo pulleys up here with pin and hole, you can have if you are coming up. IIRC, the turbo models all had pins, as well as the XT's, so basically any MPFI. All the rest had no pin.

I've bought valve cover gasket sets that included these rubber washers. Cheap, 19.99. Although I think the best bet anymore is to buy the cheapest Ebay Headgasket set you can find. 25-35 bucks. You won't want to use the Intake gaskets or the headgaskets. But all the rest of the stuff is included. Valve cover gaskets and washers, as well as the Cam o-rings and seals, and an extra set of exhaust gaskets too. The "full reseal" sets include the oilpump, F.mainseal, and Oil pan gaskets as well.

The model designation from the trans manufacturer(Aisin?) is the R4AX-EL. This is the model number to use when trying to find rebuild parts. There may be variations like R4AX-ELxxxx for slightly different applications. All the Subaru 4spd automatics are basically the same trans, From 88-2005. But small changes, like the addition of an external filter mean there are several different kits available for rebuild.

Well on 2wds, the camber is perfect. And I think that the funky Camber actually helps with turning radiuis. And when you lean hard into a highspeed turn the strut compresses and the camber becomes normal for that wheel again. But really I think it's a matter of cheaping out. They should have made 2 different control arms, or different knuckles, or just different strut mount locations or something.

Well, that's a good idea, but what's in you're picture is not the idle screw. The little screw in with the red mark in the picture SHOULD NOT BE ADJUSTED! It is the throttle shaft close set screw. It's not like a Carb where the main throttle bore opening is used for idle control. In the FI setup the, throttle is suppose to close completely, but just to where it touches the bore wall. Adjusting that screw can possibly lead to damge to the bore or a stuck throttle plate. The idle circuit is seperate from the main bore. There is an actual idle adjust screw. It is in a recessed hole on the back portion of the throttle body. Flathead screw, turn it clockwise to drop the idle speed. It would also be wise to test the idle switch portion of the TPS. Do you have a service manual?

I just wanna say I saw it in person. That's by far the worst exterior body rot I've ever seen on a soob. I have a feeling me and Daeron would have to take a spin and test his *air conditioning*

There is. But you have to remove EVERY SINGLE BIT of steel that has even begun to rust. Even then, there is no way to remove the rust that is on the insides of the rocker panel beams and the box sections. Espescially if it's been exposed to road salt. Rust likes to happen in tigh places that hold water by capillary action(like the space between spot welds on panel seems) If you're sube has anything more than the lightest surface rust, it's really too late already. You can do like Connie has said and try to slow it down as much as possible. And these cars can have tremendous rust and still be solid drivers. I have a backround in auto body(2 years school) adn classic cars, and our definition of the term "restored" is mint. Perfect. Nicer than the day it came off the line. It's not unheardof for someone to have spent $20,000 + restoring an old mustang(which are the easiest classic to find parts for ex. VW) These aren't rare exotics( XTs, RX, and SVX=sorta) They made millions of them, but they don't have the cultural signifigance of other million plus classics like Mustangs and Beetles. I LOVE subarus... BUT.... Unless you just have money to burn and/or a full body shop in you're back yard, "restoration" is not worth it. And because of the growing lack of replacement parts (espescially body and interior) it would be even more difficult. Daerons 2wd, 3at, sedan is just not ever going to be "restored" :sad: It could be made to look better and be sealed. And the rust slowed signifigantly, but to "restore" it would be nearly impossible.

That's because they are suppose to require a special tool to draw them through. They aren't supposed to slide right through, they just do that once they are old and worn. Try this. Remove the Caliper, and the hub/disc assembly. Carefully pull the hub seal out of the knuckle. Now find 2 pieces of angle iron, and a big tough washer that fits over the axles stub. Use the angle iron as a *bridge* across the bearing opening, one on each side of the axle stub. You should be able to get the axle through far enough to put the nut and washer on so that it tightens against you're angle iron *bridge*. Now you can trun the axle nut with you're 36mm socket, and draw the axle through. Once you get it as far as you can, reinstall the hub.(don't forget to shove some grease in the bearing and reinstall the seal before the hub) Now the axle shoud be far enough through to get the nut on again and tighten/draw through, it the rest of the way.

Check the condition of the hoses going to the heater. They are just about the highest point in the cooling system. So they ussually only leak under pressure and in the form of steam. Seems like whenever there is a faint antifreeze smell in one of these it's ussually from those hoses leaking steam.

+1 for that.

Okay. Back to the issue of alingment. I would be hesitant to take it to a shop. They will tell you it needs new tierods, new ball joints, and possibly new struts, before they will aling it. Garaunteed they will want to change at least a ball joint or two. (it may need that stuff but you won't want to have them do it. $$$$$) Here is what I do. And I've never had a problem. Get 2 yardsticks from home depot, or steins garden or where ever. And a good marker. Park on flat ground, pointed dead straight. Drive back and forth a bit to get the wheel totally staright. Now crawl under the car on you're back. Place the ends of the yardsticks, 1 each side, as far up and forward as you can on the inside lip of the rim. Hold them flat toghether, making sure you are holding them level and straight to eachother, and at the same relative spot on the rim each side. Mark a line where the sticks overlap. Now repaet this proceedure on the rear of the rim. Compare the lines you marked. If the rear is shorter, adjust the toe in. If the rear is longer, adjust the toe out. It only takes a small adjustment (1/4-1/2 turn) to make a good 1/4 in. change at the wheel. If you get the distances the same, but then you're steering wheel is turned while driving straight, then adjust an even amount(EX. left in, right out)on each side to get it back to center.

Not quite so cut and dry. This would be true through 87. In 88 or they made some changes. My 89 GL Turbo has the AC mounted outboard. It is a dealer added setup, theres a tag in the engine bay about the install kit. It has the short 105 waterpump though? Even with 6 years of FSMs for EA82 and countless Water pump purchases, I still can't find a hard and fast pattern of Dealer/factory/hitachi/Matsu************a/panasonic whatever AC corresponding to a length of pump. Even with a "concrete" rule, Don't count on parts companies to always have correct application listings with Subarus. Basically if you're water pump pulley just slides onto studs in the pump hub, Between it and the fan, you have a 110(long). If you're pulley bolts onto the Water pump hub, and then the fan mounts to studs in the pulley, you have a 105(short).

Slipped or broken passenger side timing belt. Or Slipped drivers side. Could be other things, but that's my first gut response.

There is some discussion about it on pages 2 and 3 of this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77231&page=3&highlight=Digidash+sending%26quot%3B Some people claim that the units are not that different, and can be intechanged with OK results(gauge indicates off by some) But according to the specs in the FSM, they operate on a diffent principal. Analog dash, the gauge is basically an analog Ohmeter. Uses a very small millivoltage to measure resistance across the sender. Digidash is a higher voltage system. 5v is sent out to the sender and passed through it. The amount of measured return voltage is interpretted, converted to a pulse, and displayed by the digidash. The voltage is varied by a change in resistance in the sender, but the resistance is not whats being measured. My guess is that putting the digidash sender into an analog car, you would just get off readings. The system would work, but since the gauge itself supplies power for it, the voltage would be way too low for the sender to work properly. This means that neither the gauge, nor the RANGE function of the TRIP COMPUTER(all caps like on the car) wouldn't work right. Now putting an analog sender into a digidash car would be bad!! I can't think of why you'd want to, but if you did the voltage would be way to high for what the analog sender was designed for. And it's in the gas tank! That's the last place you want things getting too hot or sparking from electrical problems.