Gloyale

Thanks, news to me.

FYI. The SPFI sensor is expensive($80-90). The MPFI one is way cheaper (17.99 at autozone) Both output in the same range of resistance. And both share the same thread size. I believe that by simply fashioning wiring adapter you could use the MPFI cheap sensor on the SPFI engine. I haven't actually test fitted one. The MPFI sensor has a longer probe, which might interfere with the thermostat, but I doubt it. It's really not good for you're car to run with a bad CTS. You really should test it. You can test it on the car by measuring resistance when it's cold(before you start it), then watching the resistance as the engine temp rises. Use the figures MikeShoup provided. If you don't have a multimeter, go get one. They can be gotten for about 20 bucks or less.

Yes. Swap over you're pedal box, clutch, axlers, crossmember. Then you will have to look under you're 2wd car and see if there are mounting holes for the carrier bearing. If not, fabricate something. If the holes are there, then it's easier. But at any rate, you need to install the carrier bearing and the front section of the driveshaft to keep the fluid from coming out the back of the trans. Or I've got an old driveline with trashed U joints here. I could cut off just the stub that sticks into the trans output and send it to you(or you could J-yard one). Then you could use it like a plug, wire or tape it in back there. The rear output shaft doesn't spin when not in 4wd, so it would just sit there like a plug.

Basically you have to change the positioning of the 3 bolts that hold the Trailing arm to the control arm. Loosen the nut that the trailing arm pivots on. Then loosen the 3 nuts holding the control arm to the trailing arm. To adjust toe, slide the control arm forward(neg toe) or back(pos toe) in relation to the trailing arm. To adjust Camber you have to use a long board wedged between the Trailing and control arms. Changing the angle of the Trailing arm relative to the control arm adjusts the camber. I can't really remember or properly describe which direction is which for camber. I'm going to try to scan the page here in a minute. Here it is:

For best gas milage you should shift around 1800-2500. You'll be going real slow though.

Actually the CRX HF models where a 1.5L, 12Valve, SOHC. 2 intake valves and 1 exhaust valve per cyl. 60HP. And about 200 lbs lighter than a normal CRX. And even with the tall gears it would still roast an NA EA82. The suby might take it till about 5-10 mph, Then the Honda would be gone. I used to have one, 87 HF model. I loved it. It was the car that converted me to Japanese cars. It was so much more reliable and easy to work on than the Fords I had previously. I didn't have any problem working on it. Added bigger brakes from an Integra(always wanted to add the engine:grin: ). Changed the Clutch, CV axles, and the Carbuerator baseplate. That was all it ever needed.

For my EA82s, I ussually shift up somewhere between 2500-4000 during normal, unloaded driving. When trying to accelerate harder or when pulling a load, I will rev at least 4500 and as high as 5500-6000. Running at higher RPM in a lower gear when pulling a load or climbing a hill is best. Trying to push a high gear, you'll be bogging down the motor at low RPM, which is harder on the bearings/rods/pistons/crank.

Tkae off the disty cap, rotor, and cover plate. Sprayt all that stuff down in the bottom with wd-40. That will displace and evaporate all the moisture. Wipe off any excess that gets onto the slotted wheel.

I've resorted to drilling drain holes in the bottom of my headlights. And vent holes about twice the size in the top. Seems to help keep the condensation away, or at least lets it evaporate once the lights warm it up.

Swapping the EA82T would be alot of wiring and work. Swapping the Digidash over would not be needed, but you would need to add an oil pressure sender to the pump for an Analog gauge to work. I think if you're sedan is SPFI, you'd be better off just doing a trans swap. Here is where it gets tricky. To add the 4wd to the 2wd sedan, you would need to swap Gas tank, Rear diff, rear swingarms and hubs(disc brake swap!) And as Daeron noted you need to make a way to mount the carrier bearing. Sedans and Wagons have the same length driveshafts so you're good there. Everything else is just a matter of Bolting in the trans. Swap the flywheel and clutch onto the motor. Add the pedal box to interior. Mount the 4wd solenoids on the strut top(wiring will need to be added between switch and solenoids) Also you would need to swap over you're 25 spline front axles from the Turbo car to match you're 25 spline turbo trans. Note that using a Non-turbo trans would eleminate the need to swap axles. Using the Turbo 5speed, you would also end up with 3.7 gears, not 3.9. Acceleration will suffer a bit, but highway milage will be improved.

Easier and more reliable way to reset the ECU. Plug in both the green(test) and Black(read) connectors. Start the car and run it over 2000 rmp for at least, 40 seconds, until the CEL light blinks. This Actually resets the ECU. Unplugging it doesn't nessecarily reset the codes, as they are stored with flash memory in the ECU.

Maybe he meant that with an EJ motor installed into an EA82, you can bolt up the end of the EJ Y-pipe to the mid section of the EA82 exhaust. More likely but I don't know just guessing. Looks close though.

No way man. Something else was up there. All non-turbo EA82s* use 23 spline axles. Now there is a difference between 2wd and 4wd joints themselves, with the later being larger and tougher. But really in the end any 23 spline EA82 axle will fit on the front end. The only EA82 cars with different spline counts where the 2wd MT Turbos and all 4wd Turbos* *XTs are different. 85-87 Turbo 2wd Auto(3at), and all Non-turbo= 23 spline 85-87 Turbo 2wd MT, and all Turbo 4wd = 25 spline 88-91 4 Cyl MT 2wd and 4wd =23 spline 88-91 4 Cyl Auto(4EAT) and all XT6 = 25 spline

Yeah but that CRX would have toasted you're loyale and served it with patte'. Unless there was snow:banana:

Did you replace just the boot? or the whole axle? If you bought a new or reman axle, chances are it has a warranty, take it back. Make sure you don't have a caliper dragging or a bad wheel bearing. The wheels should turn fairly freely when both are off the ground.

I know, it was all in joking I hope you realize. And using a metal bar(stick won't work well) as a sort of stethoscope is good. But it is an art not a science. Sometimes it's possible to think that you have isolated it but you haven't. If you really want to use this method you need a long metal rod, or a long screw driver, but something with about a 3/8 -1/2 shaft. What I use is a 2 foot, heavy duty, big flathead screwdriver. I busted the top part of the handle off to expose the end of the metal shaft inside, but leaving half of the handle to hold(helps keep you're hand from dampening the sound). The key is you really need to get the end of the bar into you're ear, so it's almost a bit inside you're ear like a plug. Then you can really hear JUST what the metal is reverberating. this can be really dangerous on a running engine, make sure the rod is not going to slip and catch a belt/pulley/whatever TOD is the valvetrain ticking. Caused by low lifter pressure or air bubbles in the HLA's. Not really that big of an issue. But it is often misdiagnosed as other issues.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-EA82-1-8-XT-LOYALE-TURBO-BEARINGS-CB1467AL-50_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33619QQihZ014QQitemZ330094430023QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V That listing is for .50mm under. But this seller lists many sizes, conact then and I'll bet you can get .25

Okay, you've said this twice. What do you mean? Displacement in a motor is reffering to the swept volume of the cylinders. And there are lots of Honda motors out there in the same size range as our 1.8 liter (109 CI) (altough not in a crx IIRC) they had 1.5 liter. Not to bust you're chops or anything, just trying to make sure you really know what displacement is.

Lots of people drive these cars with no covers at all, so I don't think that's a problem. You're belts are fine if they are only 10,000 miles old. Besides there's no way the timing belt can cause clicking inside the distributor. For the 3rd time quit guessing and consulting druken medicine men with sticks. Pull the damn distributor, and open it up and inspect it. There is no "crystal ball", and also no perfect"if/then" answer. We've all told you how to inspect the distributor, take it out and see if it turns smooth and has no play. Look at the weights underneath and make sure they are still properly installed. Otherwise, if the car is running fine, and the noise is not frightenengly loud or scary, just keep driving. You'll find out just as much that way as you will with sticks and booze. Is it possible that the noise you are hearing is not from the disty? Perhaps TOD on the #4 cylinder?

The strut will physically bolt in. But it is not a good idea to change just one strut. Especially changing spring just one spring with it. If you are going to swap, swap both struts. Renting a spring compressor, and just changing the upper mount/bearing on you're existing strutis a good idea too.(plus then you keep the height adjustable struts) In that case it would be OK to do just one.

I thought it sounded more like you had a rear wheel bearing lock up. I've seen it before. The tire could have shredded as a result of the lock, dragging it along on one spot would shred it pretty quick

How did you check the flywheel bolts with Engine in the car?

Only reason not to run to the rear doors is that it takes removal of more pieces, longer wires, and from my experience even the connector for the door speakers back there are harder to access, and of a different style that are harder to disengage, and reconnect spade connectors too. And they are not pink and easy to ID.

Okay I was sure there was a diference. Found it in the Fuel System section of the FSM. SPFI pump discharge pressure = 36-50 psi MPFI Pump discharge Pressure = 61-71, and is then regulated down quite a bit to the required 34 or 36 for an EA or EJ respectively. Seems the SPFI should be able to pump enough to run the EJ, but it would be making it run near full flow all the time to keep up, especially at high RPMs An old tired SPFI pump would have an even harder time. I'd get a higher discharge pump. Either a stock MPFI Suby one or a Ford Truck or T-bird pump(read up on this)

Okay, we need to clarify. You're talking about with the distributor on the car, Cap off, you are twisting the rotor and it being able to rotate about 3/4 inch? This would actaully be a test of the gear lash. And not really even because of the advance plate in the base providing some rotation. To get a feel on the bearings, you need to remove the Distributor. Mark where the rotor points to on the distributor body with a paint pen, white out, something. Just don't crank over the engine while it's out. Once it's out feel whether the rotor shaft turns smooth. Does it have any movement? Really shouldn't have any. It might be wise to take it apart abit and remove the pickup to get a look at the mechanical advance weights and springs. Maybe a weight is slinging around in there making the noise? What type of fuel system does this car have? Carb or MPFI? If it is 2wd Carb, It will have a NipponDenso Distributor.