Zebisko

Well, on my car, alls you have to do is take off the valve cover, and make sure the cylinder is at TDC. You do this by lining up the flywheel with 0 degrees, and lining the distibutor up with cylinder 1. I had someone on top of the car with a feeler gauge checking the space between the pushrod and the rocker, if the space is incorrect, you adjust it.To adjust them, you loosen the locknut on the bottom, and there is a screw in the middle. You turn the screw until the space is the correctly specified one. You then rotate the engine 180 degrees, and do it on the next cylinder. If that is confusing, consult a repair manual.

Well, I need to adjust my valves, and using vice grips is a major PITA. What is the right size for the adjuster? I know that the lock is a 12MM. I'd be very much appreciative of this help, unless someone has an adjuster tool they'd be willing to sell, of which I'd be more appreciative...

That's good, always nice to know people are still making old cars run again:headbang:.

It is definately an improvement, and for $35, a bargain. Another good idea would be to paint the wheels a nice, bright, glossy white. I painted mine, (badly I might add), and it looks a whole lot better. Although, make sure you use some tough paint, I used Rust-oleum, and it is already coming off! Oh well, cost me about $10 for all four wheels, so it isn't too bad, I'll just re-paint them this summer:-p.

Good to finally see things going in the positive direction for you, that must've sucked for a while. I give you a thumbs up!

That is just condensation in your oil, I'm willing to bet. Does your car heat up fine, or do you not make long trips? Sometimes it can be attributed to a car that does not heat up enough to evaporate the water from the oil. My brother's Camaro did the same thing when he worked 1 mile from his work, everday in the cold, the needle wouldn't even move.

Cool, thanks, I'll try that tomorrow.

Hey, on my 1984 coupe, the vacuum advance is not working, I tried moving the mechanism by hand, and it would not budge. What can I do to fix this?

Ok, I bought the '84 coupe off of Milemaker. Quite the interesting car, let me tell you. Now, I believe that the vaccuum advance is broken, it dies the later it gets into the RPM range, and I took the cap off and I could not move the advancer(technical term, I know) by hand, which I can with the hatch. Also, the ECS light comes on after about 15 miles of driving, can someone get a list of codes and how to check it please? And having the ECS light on, that means I have a feedback carb, right? Alright, thanks a bunch in advance, and thank you Milemaker again!

Brand new, everything as it should be. Also, they didn't give me the price of just the y-pipe and cat.

Ok, so the local exhaust shop gave me a quote for $225 for a cat and y-pipe installed. I believe this to be a good deal, but wanted confirmation. Thanks!

What is his "fix" for the issue?

Well, I was looking at my frame, and noticed some decent amount of rot right underneath the front door-fender mating, and was wondering if I could strengthen this to last me until NEXT spring? Any ideas?

Sorry to thread-jack, but is there any a-pillar pods for EA-81s? I'd like to install real gauges soon enough.

Grinding transmissions are no fun, I have to double-clutch to get into every forward gear but fourth:(. But, hey, I showed my friend up with his fire truck! I was able to drive it without grinding, and he couldn't!

Yeah, my car was stored for about a year before I bought it, so I was planning on doing fuel filters anyway. Thanks, though, I sometimes neglect to realize to do such simple things as that. Purolator is a good brand, right?

1984 Subaru Gl hatch 4wd, when cold, the stock gauge is maxed, at hot, idle is zero, and cruising at 3000 rpm, about thirty. Consequently, I am replacing it (oil pump) tomorrow. Edit:Oops, meant to put the (oil pump) in the post originally, sorry about that. Replacing it instead of the sender first, because my car has only 76,000 miles on it, and probably has not been done. I'm gonna see where this gets me.

I'm just assuming the float was stuck, or something.

I put some seafoam in with this tank of gas, and while driving to the parts store, I notice my gas needle rising! Seafoam gets a +1.

It is indeed a quad headlight car. I went out to try to remove it, and just stripped the screw, so I will wait 'til I can get into the shop and use the impact screwdriver. But I did notice that there is condensation in the driver side low beam, could that indicate anything? Thanks again!

Ok, so when I turn on my high beams, my driver side low turns off. Not a problem with seeing, but stupid little things like that drive me nuts. I looked at the wiring diagrams, but am mostly confused. So what I am asking is, anyone have a likely cause for this problem? Thanks in advance, as always, your help is appreciated:clap: .

Oh, ok, so I should replace the float? Well, that may happen eventually. Thanks a bunch:banana:

I'm just south of Gary in northwest Indiana. I do agree that our location does not contain too many Soob nuts. I am completely for a meet at some point, if at all possible.

Ok, so I thought my gas gauge was broken. But I was driving and noticed the low gas light came on. I then filled up, and it appeared the needle moved a tad, and the light turned off. So, what does this mean?

There is probably a hole in the intake for the climate control before the heater core. Figure out the duct set-up, and go from there.